Author Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter (Read 69374 times)

Harsh · « **Reply #175 on:** December 18, 2016, 12:56:56 PM »

I doubt she does either, but it is what I do.

Set the CCT and adjusted the valves today. The engine is now complete except for installing the electronic ignition, but that has to be done after the engine is installed in the frame. The engine is now in a lawn bag and put away in the corner.

So I am not much for sitting around. Ordered the gauge overlays then proceeded to tear open the gauges. The tach gauge was in fantastic condition. The speedo...not so much. This is going to take a lot of work to get usable.

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RAFster122s · « **Reply #176 on:** December 18, 2016, 01:44:10 PM »

Harsh, I think your time would be better spent rebuilding a new/replacement used gauge as the corosion is likely to be impeding proper operation. Complete disassembly of these complex instruments is often a bad idea...difficulty reassembling without some specialized tools I am betting is impossible. Would one of the speedo repair shops quote you a ballpark number if you sent them the photos? What would Marcel charge, if he could do it?

Definitely looks like it has been very wet inside the case or sat upside down exposed to rain or it was flooded. Was there a dark stain around the needle? Storing them improperly leads to the oil soaking into the face plate. They should be stored face up. Or, installed on bike...

Hard not to do a good job for your kids...

With the colder weather what do they have her doing? Still same sandblasting/ media blasting? Or, did they find a new level of hell, I mean work assignment for her?

I have a set of old CB175 gauges...wonder if they are compatible, or what they would be compatible with...

David

Harsh · « **Reply #177 on:** December 18, 2016, 02:07:10 PM »

I don't know. I cleaned up the corrosion with a brass wire wheel and everything seems to look good. More importantly everything moves easily and smoothly. Since I have had them off the bike I have kept them face up and they were on the bike prior to. No dark staining, just some surface corrosion. I need to search here to try and find the lube/grease that is recommended to use on the gears. There was a small tear in the boot that goes over the trip rod that looks like that is where the water got in. I know both of the PO's and I think the first one kept it outside uncovered. He lives just north of DC and I remember seeing a pic of some high snowdrifts so that could explain it. Neither of the PO's did anything to the bike though.

They still have here doing the same stuff. Blasting and powder coating. They do a number of other things there, but she has shown some talent for those two things so they like to keep her there. Fine for me since I am going to order the powder after Christmas so she can apply it. That will be a nice savings

grcamna2 · « **Reply #178 on:** December 18, 2016, 02:08:01 PM »

Quote from: RAF122S on December 18, 2016, 01:44:10 PM

Harsh, I think your time would be better spent rebuilding a new/replacement used gauge as the corosion is likely to be impeding proper operation. Complete disassembly of these complex instruments is often a bad idea...difficulty reassembling without some specialized tools I am betting is impossible. Would one of the speedo repair shops quote you a ballpark number if you sent them the photos? What would Marcel charge, if he could do it?

Definitely looks like it has been very wet inside the case or sat upside down exposed to rain or it was flooded. Was there a dark stain around the needle? Storing them improperly leads to the oil soaking into the face plate. They should be stored face up. Or, installed on bike...

Hard not to do a good job for your kids...

With the colder weather what do they have her doing? Still same sandblasting/ media blasting? Or, did they find a new level of hell, I mean work assignment for her?

I have a set of old CB175 gauges...wonder if they are compatible, or what they would be compatible with...

David

That speedo is rough..

RAFster122s · « **Reply #179 on:** December 18, 2016, 04:34:19 PM »

I hope they work ok, got an old cable you could cut to allow you to chuck one end in a drill and the other attached to speedo to test it. I think it is reverse rotation...

I think it is a light silicone grease as they tend to be high temp stable and low temp and generally don't run/melt until very high temps.

David

Harsh · « **Reply #180 on:** December 20, 2016, 05:23:24 AM »

I got the speedo gauge all cleaned up last night. After I removed the corrosion with the brass wheel I applied a light coating of phosphoric acid to the metal surfaces and let it do its thing for a little bit to help seal the metal. Lubed all the gears with some white lithium grease. Not sure if the damper needs the RC car silicone grease yet or not. Tonight I will hook up the drill (in reverse) and see how she functions as well as get some pics. Still gotta see what I can do about brightening up the tenth mile wheels since they are a bit yellow.

Harsh · « **Reply #181 on:** December 20, 2016, 02:08:33 PM »

Tested the gauges tonight and they work flawlessly. The damping rate is excellent so no need to go any further with the dissection to put some silicone grease in the pots. I ran them for about a mile varying the input speed. That takes a surprisingly long time with a cordless drill.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #182 on:** December 20, 2016, 08:16:54 PM »

Congrats on the success on the gauge I really thought it looked beyond hope. You are not alone on the missing/torn grommet for the trip meter. I have one like that.

Any hurdles ahead you can see now?

It is good your daughter has a knack for the blasting and refinish work. She needs to learn vapor blasting... I saw where Larry Cargill on the CX/GL forum bought a vapor blasting cabinet and it was not that expensive. Larry is expert class on the CX and GL bikes and has been restoring a few bikes a year and taking them to Mecum Auctions...he is working on a couple for early next year's auction. He has done some very nice custom builds with close direction from the owner. He is working on a 79 CX500 currently and vapor blasted the cases/motor back to bare aluminum.
He will vapor blast carb bodies now whereas he used to glass bead them. I had a stuck main jet that was pressed in and I sent them to him for assistance and he extracted the jet and replaced it, glass beaded the carb bodies, ran them through his industrial ultrasonic cleaner, etc. Top shelf work all around.
Email me if you want the thread link to where he showed the vapor blast setup.

Not that you are going to run out and buy a vapor blaster...it was not as expensive as I thought it would be.

David

Harsh · « **Reply #183 on:** December 21, 2016, 09:41:39 AM »

The tear in the boot wasn't that bad and it wasn't dry rotted either. Regardless, when I put it all back together I think I am going to pack the boot with some silicone to help it seal out the elements.

I don't really see any hurdles ahead, but I think we all know they will rear their ugly head at an inopportune time. Right now I am going through the parts trying to decide what color they should be. I am struggling with the below parts.

wheels - silver?
speedo gear on wheel - green or silver? green would match the rotor carrier, but silver would match the wheel
brake caliper - silver? would allow rotor carrier to stand out a bit more
brake caliper bracket - silver?
rear brake hub - silver to match wheel or green to match front rotor carrier?
front fender - green with cream stripe? leave it chrome?

Sure send me the link, can't hurt.

Harsh · « **Reply #184 on:** December 22, 2016, 02:05:32 PM »

The gauge overlays were delivered today and I was excited to get home and put them on. They aren't the correct ones. They are for a CB350F not a CB350K.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #185 on:** December 22, 2016, 02:26:44 PM »

If you put the speedo drive against the painted rotor carrier is it going to detract much from the lines given it is at the end of the silver forks? No, go with silver. Fender, depends on your rear fender...Recognize it isn't going to be much given the bobbed tail and seat but part of it will be visible from the sides and I am betting it is going to be green. If so, then paint the front one green as well. The body will be black and green and a ton of silver up front will be distracting unless you want to draw attention to it. The caliper and caliper arm can be silver without drawing attention but an alternative is to do them in black. Just have to be more careful when bleeding as it will lift paint even if wiped off immediately. Have to wash it off with a good soap and water.

Want to make it impervious to brake fluid have them both black teflon coated to yield a matt to low gloss black finish.
My $0.05

David

RAFster122s · « **Reply #186 on:** December 22, 2016, 02:28:34 PM »

How do the 350F differ from the 350K?
David

Harsh · « **Reply #187 on:** December 22, 2016, 02:38:07 PM »

The red space on the tach starts at 10k vice 9.1k, the small lines between 0 and 10 mph aren't on the F gauge, and the MPH is right above the trip meter on the F gauge. All of those things I was willing to not be concerned with. The problem is the slightly different location for the trip meter. The F gauge is 1/8" higher (more towards center) than the K.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #188 on:** December 22, 2016, 06:02:11 PM »

Ugh, hopefully the place you got them from will send you the right ones allowing some delay in return of the other so they ship now...

David

Harsh · « **Reply #189 on:** December 23, 2016, 12:10:19 PM »

Yah not going to happen. They never specified which bike they were for, they just said 71-72 CB350 models. They can get out of it because they stated to look at the parts closely for physical condition. Unfortunately, you can't tell 1/8" difference when looking at a photo. Although, I am not sure if the trip meter is actually in a different location between the models. I think they bought them and found that out then just passed them along to the next schmuck. Not much of a loss though and a new set has been purchased.

Since I had time to spare I decided to try and polish up the jewels a bit. They amber jewel looked really bad...like someone had take sandpaper to it. I tried toothpaste, but it didn't do much of anything. So I tried some Meguire's PlastX. That stuff worked very well. It removed all of the faded crusty look and shined them up pretty well.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #190 on:** December 23, 2016, 11:49:24 PM »

If you ever take a dremel or buffer to plastic you have to go very slow as the heat will quickly distort plastic when it is buffed too fast or too hard... in case you have never messed with power tools and plastic...

Novus Heavy Scratch remover can help but it isn't overly aggressive.
2000 and higher grades of sandpaper can work to flatten it again if you hold it securely. Working in one direction across the direction of the scratch to level initially. Naturally youdon't use your fingers for backing, a block is needed.

Future floor finish can be used after you have cleaned, refinished and polished the crystals to get a nice glossy finish. It can help make some marks disappear unless you are right up on them close.
Plastic modelers will use it often. They will often use very high grades of sandpaper to remove blemishes on clear plastic parts and then restore the luster.

Harsh · « **Reply #191 on:** December 24, 2016, 06:50:46 AM »

Re Future floor finish. Are there any tricks you don't know about? I just did some reading on it and it is impressive. I might brave the last minute Christmas shoppers today and go get some.

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/future-floor-polish

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

RAFster122s · « **Reply #192 on:** December 24, 2016, 09:32:22 AM »

I do a bit of modeling, worked on old Volvos for about 25 years, and lots of other things and have a fabulous memory. It used to be a lot better...

Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Festivus, or whatever you celebrate...hope it is a safe and happy time.

David

grcamna2 · « **Reply #193 on:** December 24, 2016, 12:55:38 PM »

Quote from: RAF122S on December 24, 2016, 09:32:22 AM

I do a bit of modeling, worked on old Volvos for about 25 years, and lots of other things and have a fabulous memory. It used to be a lot better...

Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Festivus, or whatever you celebrate...hope it is a safe and happy time.

David

Merry Christmas to you also David ! drive safe

Harsh · « **Reply #194 on:** December 31, 2016, 01:35:10 PM »

Managed to get the overlays on and cups & needles painted. The wind and cold weather were giving me fits. I ended up using my toaster oven to help dry the paint. For the white I used Rust-Oleom's gloss protective enamel. I used the engine paint for the black. The tips of the needles I used Model Master enamel in red-orange. The place where I am getting the LED's for the back lighting don't have any in stock. They were supposed to come in yesterday, but that has been pushed back to the end of next week. If I had those I would be able to assemble the gauges.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #195 on:** December 31, 2016, 02:51:45 PM »

Dang, Harsh. Those gauges look professional. Outstanding work!!!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #196 on:** December 31, 2016, 03:52:55 PM »

Beautiful.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #197 on:** January 01, 2017, 03:09:33 AM »

Dang Harsh! That is all by hand? You have a very steady hand and consistent. I have an exttra set of Halos, very bright LED halo rings. They are blindingly bright outside the gauge housing. White led...
what are you planning to use?

Harsh · « **Reply #198 on:** January 01, 2017, 08:01:10 AM »

I used halos on my 750. They light up the gauges very well, but I don't really care for the bright spots each LED creates. Plus there are issues wit the halos fitting in the gauges due to the light tubes for the indicators that are in the face of the tach. I am getting the LED's from Super Bright LED's. The set I am going to use are completely encapsulated in rubber. Looking at the pictures it looks like it should eliminate the bright spots allowing for a more even glow.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/side-emitting/waterproof-led-light-bar-33ft-1m-super-flexible-led-bar-with-30-smdsft-5mm-through-hole-led/123/544/

RAFster122s · « **Reply #199 on:** January 01, 2017, 09:38:37 AM »

Hope thos give you what you want...having a toggle switch with in line resistor on voltage source to lower the voltage to them can dim them for you at night.
Often they can be just too bright at night. With the white painted face you should have a more even lighting.

David

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Author Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter (Read 69374 times)