Topic: Frame-up cb350f restoration, hunk o' junk transformation

[MoMo]

Any advice as to whether I should do one bolt at a time (loosen 1/2 turn, then bring back to torque spec, move on to the next bolt) or loosen all the bolts 1/2 turn (in reverse sequence compared to instal) and then bring them all back up to spec?

loosen all bolts in reverse criss-cross as Cal mentioned then retorque...Larry

  edit:  from outside to inside-same as removal

[markreimer]

Any advice as to whether I should do one bolt at a time (loosen 1/2 turn, then bring back to torque spec, move on to the next bolt) or loosen all the bolts 1/2 turn (in reverse sequence compared to instal) and then bring them all back up to spec?

loosen all bolts in reverse criss-cross as Cal mentioned then retorque...Larry

  edit:  from outside to inside-same as removal

Right, opposite of install than, which starts from the middle and works outward. I'll give it a day and check the torque.


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[grcamna2]

Nice work Mark 

[RAFster122s]

Yes, when removing you do it a bit at a time, reverse of install.  Bringing it down slowly in same way you are slowly tightening the head evenly.  Removing in the opposite order you tighten the head.

Just as Cal and MoMo have said.  Cal has plenty of experience and has never mentioned having a leak.

I don't recall, did you have your head and cylinders skim cut to ensure they were flat?

David

[markreimer]

Yes, when removing you do it a bit at a time, reverse of install.  Bringing it down slowly in same way you are slowly tightening the head evenly.  Removing in the opposite order you tighten the head.

Just as Cal and MoMo have said.  Cal has plenty of experience and has never mentioned having a leak.

I don't recall, did you have your head and cylinders skim cut to ensure they were flat?

David

Thanks Dave, I did have the head skimmed as it was around 5/1000th out toward the center. They didn't touch the cylinders though


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[grcamna2]

Any advice as to whether I should do one bolt at a time (loosen 1/2 turn, then bring back to torque spec, move on to the next bolt) or loosen all the bolts 1/2 turn (in reverse sequence compared to instal) and then bring them all back up to spec?

loosen all bolts in reverse criss-cross as Cal mentioned then retorque...Larry

  edit:  from outside to inside-same as removal

Right, opposite of install than, which starts from the middle and works outward. I'll give it a day and check the torque.


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I install and start tightening in the middle and work my way out toward each end of the the head in 'X' patterns alternating sometimes to double-check.When I loosen the head I start from the outside ends first w/ 'X' patterns and loosen/work my way toward the middle;all of this sequential tightening and loosening in steps to keep the head from warping.I make sure the threads are clean on the studs and nuts first and use a thread chaser if necessary(not a tap or die)on either and then I use a small bit of Anti-seeze on each studs threads and washers and test-run each nut down on the studs to evenly distribute the Anti-seeze;this is because I like to be sure I am getting a 'true' torque reading on each set of threads.
I use the same 'Anti-seeze' process on my wheel spokes.

[markreimer]

...I use a small bit of Anti-seeze on each studs threads and washers and test-run each nut down on the studs to evenly distribute the Anti-seeze;this is because I like to be sure I am getting a 'true' torque reading on each set of threads.

This would not be advisable for studs into cylinders. Better to use LocTite than AntiSieze. You actually want the stud to be chemically "connected" to prevent it from spinning out when you loosen the nut.

I think he meant antiseaze on the upper stud threads where the nuts go. The lower threads going into the engine case would benefit from loctite.


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[grcamna2]

...I use a small bit of Anti-seeze on each studs threads and washers and test-run each nut down on the studs to evenly distribute the Anti-seeze;this is because I like to be sure I am getting a 'true' torque reading on each set of threads.

This would not be advisable for studs into cylinders. Better to use LocTite than AntiSieze. You actually want the stud to be chemically "connected" to prevent it from spinning out when you loosen the nut.

I think he meant antiseaze on the upper stud threads where the nuts go. The lower threads going into the engine case would benefit from loctite.


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Yes,thanks for making it clear;I don't want the studs to loosen once I tighten them down into the cases.

[markreimer]

I had a few spare hours tonight and made some progress.

I followed the advice shared earlier and backed off all the stud bolts in the opposite order. I noticed my manual called for a light dose of motor oil on the threads, so I did that and proceeded to torque them all down. Seems like it pulled it a bit tighter than last time.



Next was installing the camshaft, tensioner and oil lines. I gave the camshaft journals a layer of assembly lube and finessed the cam chain sliders into place. That's when I realized my cam chain tensioner mechanism was seized. No wonder it was so noisy. A bit of penetrating oil and alternating pressure on the slider and the tensioner mechanism I got it to break free. It's nice and snappy now!



I timed the valves/camshaft, gave everything a little bath of oil then installed the cover. Set the valve clearance and the motor is ready to go!



I need to add oil (do NOT forget that...) drop in the carbs and exhaust, then fix my leaking petcock. Maybe 2-3 hours and I can fire it up


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[MoMo]

Thumbs up....Larry

[RAFster122s]

Nice progress, hope the carbs are quicker to install on the 350...the 550 takes a few tricks and holding your tongue just right.

It is a good habit to always check the oil everytime before starting and do a walk around after starting to check lights & signals while gearing up.

I've actually sat the bottle of oil on the seat if I left it without oil.

[Dnor72]

I had a few spare hours tonight and made some progress.

I followed the advice shared earlier and backed off all the stud bolts in the opposite order. I noticed my manual called for a light dose of motor oil on the threads, so I did that and proceeded to torque them all down. Seems like it pulled it a bit tighter than last time.



Next was installing the camshaft, tensioner and oil lines. I gave the camshaft journals a layer of assembly lube and finessed the cam chain sliders into place. That's when I realized my cam chain tensioner mechanism was seized. No wonder it was so noisy. A bit of penetrating oil and alternating pressure on the slider and the tensioner mechanism I got it to break free. It's nice and snappy now!



I timed the valves/camshaft, gave everything a little bath of oil then installed the cover. Set the valve clearance and the motor is ready to go!



I need to add oil (do NOT forget that...) drop in the carbs and exhaust, then fix my leaking petcock. Maybe 2-3 hours and I can fire it up


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Awesome! Get that thing fired up!


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[grcamna2]

Yes, Fire it Up ! 

[markreimer]

Took some effort but this happened tonight

The carbs are such a pain to get back on, but we managed. Throttle and clutch cables feel very stiff so i might have bodged the routing, or it's just the cold. The battery was dead, which was strange (stored it inside, charged) so had to charge it first.

Anyway, cranked it a few times to circulate the oil, and fired it up. It smoked like hell at first, but I sprayed the cylinders full of fogging oil the other day since I didn't know how long it would be till I started it. That burned off quick and now it's just the usual post rebuild white smoke. I took it outside and considered a quick ride but....well you can see the conditions in the video.

Good news is all four headers are hot and the engine is MUCH smoother sounding. No more cam chain rattle!


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[grcamna2]

Yeah !  Victory 
Now you can heat it up running to full operating temp. and change the oil/filter to get the assembly lube out of the oil.

[Darren Jakal]

That is cool. Is that a fairing on your bike? I can hardly see it. Do you have more pics?

Thanks, Darren

[MoMo]

thumbs up

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

It's ALIVE!

[markreimer]

Thanks everyone!! 

Lots more work to be done on this bike, but it sure feels good to hear the engine running again.

grcamna2 - I was wondering about the ramifications of assembly lube in the oil actually. Are there any? It sure is a gooey tacky substance. I guess it must get whipped up into the oil and diluted when the engine runs? I usually do my first post-rebuild oil change after taking it on a preliminary break-in ride, around 100km. Then a second change at 500km, at which point I return to normal oil change intervals. Would you suggest something different?


Darren Jakal - yes there is a small generic windscreen bolted to the bars. Personally I think it spoils the look of the bike, but my wife loves it and it's her bike so... If you scroll back a couple pages you can see a clear photo of the bike with the screen installed: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151078.225.html

[Dnor72]

WooHoo! You're braver than me taking it out in the snow.


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[Darren Jakal]

Thanks Mark,

I can see it better on the other thread. Just looking for options on how to finish my ride and I am thinking about some kind of fairing at the moment.

Cheers, Darren

[grcamna2]

Thanks everyone!! 

Lots more work to be done on this bike, but it sure feels good to hear the engine running again.

grcamna2 - I was wondering about the ramifications of assembly lube in the oil actually. Are there any? It sure is a gooey tacky substance. I guess it must get whipped up into the oil and diluted when the engine runs? I usually do my first post-rebuild oil change after taking it on a preliminary break-in ride, around 100km. Then a second change at 500km, at which point I return to normal oil change intervals. Would you suggest something different?


Darren Jakal - yes there is a small generic windscreen bolted to the bars. Personally I think it spoils the look of the bike, but my wife loves it and it's her bike so... If you scroll back a couple pages you can see a clear photo of the bike with the screen installed: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151078.225.html

Mark,
I have heard that assembly lube can clog the filter if left in there for a while;I had it almost completely block my filter/screen on a small single cylinder Honda when I once tried running it for the full break-in oil,that was Torco assembly lube.I personally learned my lesson on that even though there was no apparent damage..
I would change the oil and put in light break-in oil if it was my engine,imo.

[markreimer]

Ah, crazy! Makes sense though, that stuff is real gooey. I didn't notice that in my filter on my 750 when I rebuilt the engine in October, but I wasn't exactly looking for it either...

I put in some Rotella T 15w-40 oil in, which is my normal choice. It's cheap and works well in these engines in my experience. I think I won't start the bike up again till the snow clears and I can actually ride it. I'd rather not have the engine sit idling so much, but rather take it on a short (maybe 20-30km), fast ride to start the break in and circulate the oil a bit, change the oil right after, then again at 100km.

Next project on the list is addressing the leaking petcock and fuel cap. I'll see about addressing that this weekend.

[grcamna2]

Ah, crazy! Makes sense though, that stuff is real gooey. I didn't notice that in my filter on my 750 when I rebuilt the engine in October, but I wasn't exactly looking for it either...

I put in some Rotella T 15w-40 oil in, which is my normal choice. It's cheap and works well in these engines in my experience. I think I won't start the bike up again till the snow clears and I can actually ride it. I'd rather not have the engine sit idling so much, but rather take it on a short (maybe 20-30km), fast ride to start the break in and circulate the oil a bit, change the oil right after, then again at 100km.

Next project on the list is addressing the leaking petcock and fuel cap. I'll see about addressing that this weekend.

I also use Rotella 15/40 and like it in warmer temps.(40 degrees F. & above)but I think lighter(10-30) oil for break-in works best,imo.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

WooHoo! You're braver than me taking it out in the snow.


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Just drill in some screw heads into some nobbies and there you go -- snow/ice racer!  I like "recreational" snow.