Author Topic: 16 vs 18 inch rear wheel (Read 4470 times)

88blkiroc · « **on:** May 14, 2016, 07:53:24 PM »

So I just picked up another 74 CB750 today as a parts bike for a sweet deal. Even came with a spare engine so I'm pretty happy with the deal. The main reason I picked it up is the rear wheel on my bike is bent (possibly the front too) so for the price everyone wanted for two wheels I got almost two bikes worth of parts. I looked the rims over before I bought it and they look good. Then I get it home and on a closer look the rear wheel is a 16 inch instead of 18. Its a old 5.1x16 tire on it. So the question is what to do now. Go with this 16 or try to find an 18? I wouldn't mind running a 130 rear tire so that seems like a plus but what are the downsides of the 16 if any? Tomorrow I get to dig through all the boxes and see what all I got with the bike

if anyone needs parts near Chicago let me if you need anything, the tank and rims are staying but I'll probably sell everything else off.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1 on:** May 14, 2016, 09:55:57 PM »

The 16" is good for a chopper/cruiser stance and handling. I'd ditch it for an 18".

dhall57 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 15, 2016, 04:22:33 AM »

The PO of both my KO and K6 put a 16"(Harley) wheel on them. Popular thing to do back in the day, just like removing the factory exhaust I guest. I like the beefier look from the rear but don't like the side view. Just to much space between wheel and fender,

88blkiroc · « **Reply #3 on:** May 15, 2016, 05:47:56 AM »

Got any pics of the 16's on your bikes?

dhall57 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 15, 2016, 07:38:36 AM »

Old pics but they show the 16" wheels. When I need new tires more than likely I'll get 18" rims and tires to put back on. Im a stocker kind of guy

From the first 2 pics you can see the distance between the tire and fender that I don't like.

754 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 15, 2016, 08:26:36 AM »

We used to run them for longer tire life and other reasons. One buddy ran a 16, morris wheels front ant rear , S&W shocks... most could never catch him whether you had a 16 or 18 inch rear...

88blkiroc · « **Reply #6 on:** May 16, 2016, 03:55:04 AM »

What are the other reasons 754?

Dhall thanks for the pics. Excellent looking machines you have there. I don't mind the gap so much but I like the look of the wider tire.

Swoop · « **Reply #7 on:** May 16, 2016, 04:37:18 AM »

Quote from: 754 on May 15, 2016, 08:26:36 AM

We used to run them for longer tire life and other reasons. One buddy ran a 16, morris wheels front ant rear , S&W shocks... most could never catch him whether you had a 16 or 18 inch rear...

Funny, I would have thought the tire would wear faster due to the additional number of rotations to go the same distance.

70CB750 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 16, 2016, 06:05:16 AM »

I went from 16 to 18 on Dorothy, prefer taller bike too.

MCRider · « **Reply #9 on:** May 16, 2016, 06:10:35 AM »

Quote from: Dowelpin on May 16, 2016, 04:37:18 AM

Quote from: 754 on May 15, 2016, 08:26:36 AM
We used to run them for longer tire life and other reasons. One buddy ran a 16, morris wheels front ant rear , S&W shocks... most could never catch him whether you had a 16 or 18 inch rear...

Funny, I would have thought the tire would wear faster due to the additional number of rotations to go the same distance.

The sidewall on the 16 is usually taller than on the 18. So the overall height, circumference, etc is not much different. The carcass of the 16 is bulkier, and since it has more mass to distribute heat, it runs cooler and lasts longer. I think.

Swoop · « **Reply #10 on:** May 16, 2016, 06:38:15 AM »

Makes sense.

754 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 16, 2016, 09:03:55 AM »

For looks and for traction, there was a time a 4.25 x 18 was the widest 18 available.
Also, if runnng struts or rigid, a 16 with say 18-20 lbs of air had more cushion and comfort.

Of coursevall this flys in the face of the Church of Maximum Handling crowd.... But hey thousands of riders did it..
With lowering blocks, the gap disappeared.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #12 on:** May 16, 2016, 09:14:54 AM »

I looked at a 550 yesterday with a 16" rear wheel and lowering brackets. A sweet chopper seat too.

Tews19 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 16, 2016, 09:24:24 AM »

Danny, I tried to get that!

Don R · « **Reply #14 on:** May 16, 2016, 10:25:34 AM »

Back in the day, lowering blocks were standard equipment with a 16 rim. Pullback handlebars, backrest, windjammer, highway bars, bell bottom pants, oops I got carried away. The other parts are easy to remove, the 16" rim not so easy.
My sandcast had a 16" but the rolled 18" rim was on the PO's mechanic's drag bike. I had to buy it to get the rim. lol.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #15 on:** May 16, 2016, 11:35:31 AM »

Quote from: Tews19 on May 16, 2016, 09:24:24 AM

Danny, I tried to get that!

That particular bike? He still has it. I told him I thought $400-$450 was about right and he countered with $500.

88blkiroc · « **Reply #16 on:** May 18, 2016, 08:44:33 PM »

Any rubbing issues with 130/90 tires? Is that about as wide as I can go?

754 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 18, 2016, 09:09:47 PM »

130 is fine.. 140 will probably clear..

MCRider · « **Reply #18 on:** May 19, 2016, 07:27:07 AM »

Quote from: 88blkiroc on May 18, 2016, 08:44:33 PM

Any rubbing issues with 130/90 tires? Is that about as wide as I can go?

The first place it hits is the brake stay bar. You can swing it to the outside of the bracket and a 140 should clear. Next foul is the chain, not much you can do about that.

754 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 19, 2016, 09:16:27 AM »

When it hits the tire, break out the disc grinder and take an 1/8 off the tire.. but a 130 will be fine..

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Author Topic: 16 vs 18 inch rear wheel (Read 4470 times)