Topic: What did you do to your non-motorcycle vehicle today?

[Don R]

 I moved bikes around and made space to bring the 40 chevy home from storage, the brakes have been feeling weak, so I got a new manual brake master cylinder made for disc/drum brakes with the proportioning valve.
  It's mounted under the floor behind the stock master cyl./pedal mount so I could keep the original clutch and brake pedal.
 It's got 73 mustang rear drums with 74 nova front discs on a mustang II front end. I welded the ford crossmember in complete before there were kits. It also got a 1" sway bar. The rear is a 9" with a made by me 4 link with a Panhard bar and coil-over shocks.
 Since the M/C is below the brakes it needs a 1lb residual valve on the front and a 3 lb residual valve in the rear drums so the fluid can't leak out of the wheel cylinders back into the M/C.

[Don R]

  I got into the shop, it was cold and wet today, so I didn't get the 40 brought home. I did lay out some brake line tools and begin making the mild steel side of the exhaust hangers for the 69 firebird.

[Don R]

 The 40 Chevy has brakes, but they won't lock up. It feels like the pedal pushrod is too long and it's not getting enough travel to pump up a full stroke. I jacked it up outside and got under it in time for three phone calls.
 The pedal linkage bolts face away from each other so neither the brake or clutch link bolt can come out because they are head-to-head. I'll need to pull the pedal holder bolt, slide the pedal arms aside and grease it while its apart.
 Plan B tomorrow, I want to see if the pedal stroke is sufficient before I replace the M/C.

[grcamna2]

The 40 Chevy has brakes, but they won't lock up. It feels like the pedal pushrod is too long and it's not getting enough travel to pump up a full stroke. I jacked it up outside and got under it in time for three phone calls.
 The pedal linkage bolts face away from each other so neither the brake or clutch link bolt can come out because they are head-to-head. I'll need to pull the pedal holder bolt, slide the pedal arms aside and grease it while its apart.
 Plan B tomorrow, I want to see if the pedal stroke is sufficient before I replace the M/C.

Sounds like a good plan Don.

[Gurp]

Bought a cheap cheap 1 ton dually chevy.
Brought it home with plenty of lifter noise and oil full of gas.
Changed the oil adjusted the carb
Found loose rocker arms and newer looking pushrods.
The new beater tow pig seems like it's going to make a good one. 40/60 bench seat is broke so looking for one of those currently.

[Don R]

Bought a cheap cheap 1 ton dually chevy.
Brought it home with plenty of lifter noise and oil full of gas.
Changed the oil adjusted the carb
Found loose rocker arms and newer looking pushrods.
The new beater tow pig seems like it's going to make a good one. 40/60 bench seat is broke so looking for one of those currently.

  My dually is the only vehicle I've owned that's better than my Suburban was. Oops I spoke too soon, I think one of the fuel lines is leaking, in 2003 GM neglected to coat any of the steel lines on these vehicles, fuel or brake lines. In my opinion there should have been a recall.

[Don R]

 I got into the 40 chevy brakes, I needed to modify the pedal pushrod to fit/clear the entrance to the new M/C so I made a new one. I checked the travel and realized that when the old M/C began to leak out the front, the pedal travel dropped and the linkage was bottoming out on the "newer than the brakes" Lakewood bellhousing.
   I adjusted the length of the new linkage to remove as much slack as possible and next I'll grind clearance into the flange of the bellhousing. My worry is the pedal could get stuck behind the flange if the engine was moving around.
 Engineering brakes isn't to be taken lightly, maybe above my pay grade.  I'm going to need my glasses, face shield and welders cap for this clearance job. With any luck I won't explode a cutting wheel like a guy I know did.
 It's good NHRA isn't going to be looking at the cert on this bellhousing.

[Don R]

 When I made the 40 Chevy's brake pushrod correct for the new M/C the brake lever doesn't go as far down and doesn't hit the bellhousing. Having a standard M/C for a 74 nova made the disc/drum ends specific and of course they were reversed so I made use of my stockpile of firebird stuff and re-ran the lines in copper/nickel tube. It has a tiny bit of pedal now so tomorrow I'll make every effort to get it bled and back inside the shop.
 It was a 12-hour day including grocery shopping and getting gas, it felt good to be outside. People pay for a gym membership to get this kind of exercise.

[Don R]

 I have the about same brakes as before but haven't bled them yet. I rolled the car inside. I wasn't comfortable leaving it out. Weather and criminals are a concern. 
 I'm going to put the car on my tall stands and remove the wheels to complete the process. Next, I'm going to pull off the entire front body clip and re-seal the front cover and oil pan. The engine has an oil leak in the front so I'm buying a new front cover and timing tab.

[Gurp]

Found the bad connection. Now i have taillights.

[Don R]

 I installed speed bleeders in all four corners, I highly recommend them, the four were $34 but I got the brakes bled by myself after trying unsuccessfully this morning with help. In the morning I'll flush some more until the fluid coming out looks new.
 The Dorman speed bleeders worked well on my double disc F1 too.
 

[Kelly E]

I installed speed bleeders in all four corners, I highly recommend them, the four were $34 but I got the brakes bled by myself after trying unsuccessfully this morning with help. In the morning I'll flush some more until the fluid coming out looks new.
 The Dorman speed bleeders worked well on my double disc F1 too.

I used speed bleeders when I installed the 320mm big brake kit on my 94' Kawasaki ZG 1000 Concours. I had also rebuilt both brake and the clutch master cylinders. It makes it easier to get the job done and and get all the air out. Now the 700lb bike stops great.

[Don R]

I installed speed bleeders in all four corners, I highly recommend them, the four were $34 but I got the brakes bled by myself after trying unsuccessfully this morning with help. In the morning I'll flush some more until the fluid coming out looks new.
 The Dorman speed bleeders worked well on my double disc F1 too.

I used speed bleeders when I installed the 320mm big brake kit on my 94' Kawasaki ZG 1000 Concours. I had also rebuilt both brake and the clutch master cylinders. It makes it easier to get the job done and and get all the air out. Now the 700lb bike stops great.

I think my breakthrough was backing off the rear brake proportioning valve a half turn. I'll need to re-tune it now, I need a parking lot that I can mark up a little.

[Don R]

 A former co-worker called me today asking how to set the valves on a 63 corvette 340 hp engine with solid lifters. After looking for and relaying answers all day I told him I'll come over tomorrow. OH my, the lash numbers I find vary from .008/.018  to .024/.026 to the commonly referred to 30/30 which is the name of the cam.

 Edit: the 63 cam has different lash specs .008- .018 then the 64 version. He goofed up all of them so I can't even check to see what it had.

[Kelly E]

Today I finished spraying rattle can bed liner on the cargo racks and grill guard on the 01' Honda TRX 350 Rancher. You can see them hanging in the background. We tried to install the carb but the insulator is so rock hard that the carb won't go in. I'll have to order a new one to get the carb installed.

[grcamna2]

Today I finished spraying rattle can bed liner on the cargo racks and grill guard on the 01' Honda TRX 350 Rancher. You can see them hanging in the background. We tried to install the carb but the insulator is so rock hard that the carb won't go in. I'll have to order a new one to get the carb installed.

You brought that 4-wheeler back from a hard life.
Who's Interceptor is that in front of your garage door ?

[Kelly E]

Today I finished spraying rattle can bed liner on the cargo racks and grill guard on the 01' Honda TRX 350 Rancher. You can see them hanging in the background. We tried to install the carb but the insulator is so rock hard that the carb won't go in. I'll have to order a new one to get the carb installed.

You brought that 4-wheeler back from a hard life.
Who's Interceptor is that in front of your garage door ?

The 84' Interceptor 1000 is Paul's. We resurrected it a few years ago. It only has 17k miles on it and it runs and rides like new. We went through everything but the engine. I built an adapter to use a CBR 1100xx Blackbird shock and replaced the ignition boxes with a set from V4 Spark, everything else is stock. It's a very easy bike to ride and totally docile until you twist your wrist, then you are doing over 100mph in the blink of an eye.

[grcamna2]

Today I finished spraying rattle can bed liner on the cargo racks and grill guard on the 01' Honda TRX 350 Rancher. You can see them hanging in the background. We tried to install the carb but the insulator is so rock hard that the carb won't go in. I'll have to order a new one to get the carb installed.

You brought that 4-wheeler back from a hard life.
Who's Interceptor is that in front of your garage door ?

The 84' Interceptor 1000 is Paul's. We resurrected it a few years ago. It only has 17k miles on it and it runs and rides like new. We went through everything but the engine. I built an adapter to use a CBR 1100xx Blackbird shock and replaced the ignition boxes with a set from V4 Spark, everything else is stock. It's a very easy bike to ride and totally docile until you twist your wrist, then you are doing over 100mph in the blink of an eye.

I had a few VF500's and an 86' VFR750F,but never a VF1000F;what brand tires do you run ?

[Kelly E]

Today I finished spraying rattle can bed liner on the cargo racks and grill guard on the 01' Honda TRX 350 Rancher. You can see them hanging in the background. We tried to install the carb but the insulator is so rock hard that the carb won't go in. I'll have to order a new one to get the carb installed.

You brought that 4-wheeler back from a hard life.
Who's Interceptor is that in front of your garage door ?

The 84' Interceptor 1000 is Paul's. We resurrected it a few years ago. It only has 17k miles on it and it runs and rides like new. We went through everything but the engine. I built an adapter to use a CBR 1100xx Blackbird shock and replaced the ignition boxes with a set from V4 Spark, everything else is stock. It's a very easy bike to ride and totally docile until you twist your wrist, then you are doing over 100mph in the blink of an eye.

I had a few VF500's and an 86' VFR750F,but never a VF1000F;what brand tires do you run ?

It has a set of Avon Roadrider II's on it now.

[Stev-o]

Worked on the "Ol Chevy" yesterday, all jacked up and ready for suspension work...



Pulled the idler arm with ease with the help of my buddies fork tool, BFH and a special modified [broken!] Snap-on long handled combo wrench to reach the top bolt that goes through the frame.
 
There are many different brands of idler arms out there, some at very cheap prices, I opted for the Moog, made in USA...



All other suspension parts look good other than years of grime, this should resolve the "shimmy at 60" issue. 



A good cleaning and road test will have to wait for another day.

[Don R]

   The 40 chevy needs some new tires, still good tread and holding air but the rears have a 3-digit date code, and the fronts are old enough to buy alcohol.  I made a good choice on the toe-in change it drives better with the new old R&P and bushing in the bottom of the steering column.
  The brakes are way better, fronts are stopping hard but it's still not locking the rears, I might open the proportioning valve a little. I'd like to get them to lock and then back off a tiny bit. There's a blacktop parking lot nearby with a little fine gravel on it, when they aren't open for business I'll try a lock-up test. 

[dave500]

moog are the good ones stevo,I imported from rock auto moog ball joints for my holden ,same as some chevy or something cost less than the chinese ones here at the time,was a few years ago.

[gotorx7]

Replaced the Rear Lid Gas Struts on my 87 Fezza 328..

[Stev-o]

moog are the good ones stevo...

Yes, I think so too Dave.  As long as they are not counterfeit!!

https://www.moogparts.com/technologies/articles/How-to-Spot-Counterfeit-Steering-and-Suspension-Parts.html

[Stev-o]

Replaced the Rear Lid Gas Struts on my 87 Fezza 328..

OK....we need more pics of your "FEZZA"!!!!!