Topic: Mix Match 750 build - next stage cheap 836 kit

[Shtonecb500]

Given my fuel flow issue, I doubt I've really experienced everything my bike has to give me. I will say that I feel the most difference in 4th and 5th gear being able to just roll on the throttle rather than down #$%* first to make a move....which is very nice. Parts should show up on Monday, and will disassemble the lid on there now when the new one shows up.

[willbird]

Given my fuel flow issue, I doubt I've really experienced everything my bike has to give me. I will say that I feel the most difference in 4th and 5th gear being able to just roll on the throttle rather than down #$%* first to make a move....which is very nice. Parts should show up on Monday, and will disassemble the lid on there now when the new one shows up.

I had a poor understanding of what all was inside of one so I just threw my OEM one into Evaporust to clean it up, thinking the OEM in 1972 used something like cotton too and my exuberance was not good for that LOL. It did clean it up decent tho LOL, I just should have taken it apart first.

[Shtonecb500]

New gas cap didn't fix it, the bike was still only running on 2 after I got a mile from home, backfiring and jerking but getting my back home. In the morning i'll pull the tank off and verify fuel flow with the new lid, then move on to checking and testing electrical components. The new rear brakes are installed.

[RAFster122s]

Have you checked your fuel bowls to ensure your fuel isn't the cause of the lean backfire? Then there is possibly timing of spark or of plugs that aren't firing...
Misfire during compression stroke can cause a hiccup in your gettiup

[Godffery]

 If you are absolutely certain that the new cap is venting sufficiently, then here is another possible issue...
 Not sure if this conversation has been had yet; but are you by chance using In-Line Fuel Filters?
If so, those have been known to cause intermittent fuel delivery symptoms like you are describing.

[grcamna2]

If you are absolutely certain that the new cap is venting sufficiently, then here is another possible issue...
 Not sure if this conversation has been had yet; but are you by chance using In-Line Fuel Filters?
If so, those have been known to cause intermittent fuel delivery symptoms like you are describing.

There's no substitute for having a spotlessly clean fuel tank.
I have used the automotive size fuel filters in the past on sohc4's and had issues;I had used some small(fine strainer/clear)inline fuel filters that weren't bad,although just a tiny bit of rust/dust made it through them also and would clog the pilots.

[Shtonecb500]

I swapped the coils from my 500 onto this 750 but the problem is still here. The bike runs fine for the first mile then it starts to only run on two cylinders, if I shut the bike down and restart it only starts on two, when I take off and give it gas it feels like the other cylinders wanna come back into the mix but dont, then the bike jerks a lot as if its gonna fire on all four but then it doesn't.... I checked the fuel flow at the petcock and it was great/free flowing, so the new lid works well.

I wonder where I put the stock ignition I took off this bike…

Ill pull the carb bowls and make sure they are getting equal amounts of fuel as someone asked earlier....gonna try riding with the points cover off and ignition exposed, im under the impression it starts to get wonky when it gets hot, wondering if it being exposed to air will keep it from acting up, which will point me in the right direction even more.

[seanbarney41]

What you got on there?  Dyna?

[Shtonecb500]

What you got on there?  Dyna?

Yeah I believe its a dyna, Lets say its been getting used on my bikes for about 6 years, it came off another bike that had gotten used a good amount as well....I can ballpark it around 6-10 years old...I pulled it off of my 550 that I sold last year...maybe I swapped the stock ignition into the 550 and thats why I cant find it.

[seanbarney41]

I would be strongly suspicious of a dyna, especially of that vintage.

[Shtonecb500]

slapped a new Dyna s in and I finally have my bike back.....cant believe it was the damn ignition.

Gonna put a new clutch in it but im taking this #$%*er on a trip and gonna ride out to caseville/port Austin area and hang out on the beach tomorrow.

I probably need to change fork fluid and flush brake fluid before I leave.

Thanks everyone for the troubleshooting help.

edit:

my master cylinder finally gave out today on my ride....the piston was sticking. Purchased it on amazon in 2020 and it came with a rebuild kit....I actually found the replacement parts so Im gonna give it a shot tomorrow morning.

edit: got caught in the rain, everything went to #$%*....I spent the entire day re wiring my sub harnesses, making new wire connections, getting caught in the rain and shorting #$%* out must have blown my relay flasher cause I need a new one. onCE I finished up the wiring I took it out for a test spin and the #$%*ing gas cap stared leaking while I was riding....I put the rubber gasket not around the circular portion fitting the recessed rubber around it...but just sitting on top of it, which now provides enough pinch to seal the lid.

[Shtonecb500]

recap:The end of last years riding season my bike got caught in heavy rain and died at a red light, every since then it was dropping cylinders about 2-3 miles into my ride and my fall riding season ended early.  The motor had already been leaking around the valve cover a lot, at the neutral pressure switch below the engine as well....I couldn't wear clothes I didn't want oil all over. The engine was rebuilt and bored out to 836cc and  then proceeded to troubleshoot my electrical or fuel flow issue. I saw some bubbles coming out of one of the brass tips on the petcock so thought maybe the lid was not venting, cleaned the carbs/jets, rebuilt petcock. The symptoms were still there and finally addressed by replacing the dying dyna S ignition. I FILLED the tank yesterday and gas came pouring out when I accelerated, the lid was no longer sealing or venting properly, I removed the rubber ring from around the lip and just set it on top of the spring loaded plate, which fixed the sealing problem but still allowed the venting issue. Today after a few miles the bike started to cough again, the tank lid needed to be burped about once per couple miles which is very annoying...I was able to dissemble the original tank lid and clean it, installed it, and made it home without the tank needing to be burped not even once, even sustained freeway speeds no issues. DAY before yesterday I was caught in heavy rain which exposed electrical gremlins so I went through the entire bike and re-wired and made new connections and taped  up more of the harness the episode did fry my flasher relay so placed an order for a few of those to have on hand...Should probably replace the spark plug caps again.


Finally had an entire route from A to B with no issues....gonna ride to port Austin tonight and hang out on Lake Huron.
Have a good weekend.

[Shtonecb500]

I think I need to re torque my head, I was getting some "sweating" on some fins but Idk anymore I think its more than sweating now. I will be installing one of Franks frame kits to accomplish this. I also took a passenger out on the bike who weighs closer to me and there is def enough power with the 836 and even my cheap rear shocks held up very well, the weakest part in the chain was the front suspension, the bike could use a fork swap to handle two up riding duty as well as a back rest so the passenger can lean back and gain clearance between our helmets.


using cycle x mls head gasket.

[Godffery]

An excellent and rather simple front suspension upgrade can be done to your stock Forks by using RaceTech Springs and Gold Valve Emulators, combined with TTR400 Preload adjusters.

[Shtonecb500]

An excellent and rather simple front suspension upgrade can be done to your stock Forks by using RaceTech Springs and Gold Valve Emulators, combined with TTR400 Preload adjusters.

I have emulators installed but I have old original springs inside the forks and my ttr400 preload adjusters leak for some reason so I haven't had any tension on them, they just sit there to be pretty.

[Godffery]

An excellent and rather simple front suspension upgrade can be done to your stock Forks by using RaceTech Springs and Gold Valve Emulators, combined with TTR400 Preload adjusters.

I have emulators installed but I have old original springs inside the forks and my ttr400 preload adjusters leak for some reason so I haven't had any tension on them, they just sit there to be pretty.

Not sure how effective the Gold valves are without their matching springs?
 As for the Preload adjusters; The O-Rings (one outer and one inner) can easily be checked and replaced.

[Shtonecb500]

An excellent and rather simple front suspension upgrade can be done to your stock Forks by using RaceTech Springs and Gold Valve Emulators, combined with TTR400 Preload adjusters.

I have emulators installed but I have old original springs inside the forks and my ttr400 preload adjusters leak for some reason so I haven't had any tension on them, they just sit there to be pretty.

Not sure how effective the Gold valves are without their matching springs? 
 As for the Preload adjusters; The O-Rings (one outer and one inner) can easily be checked and replaced.

I was under the impression that any non progressively wound spring would suffice, don't remember two o rings so ill take a closer look when I replace fork fluid.

[seanbarney41]

gold valve emulators control just damping, spring rate is how you accommodate load...more weight needs higher spring rate, braking from higher speed needs higher spring rate.  Those stock springs were too low spring rate when they were brand new and now they are certainly worn out

[Shtonecb500]

barnette friction discs installed, replaced the o rings on the preload adjusters, its nice to have those functional again, forks feel great, clutch feels great.

[Shtonecb500]

I’m hearing a chirping noise when accelerating, I think I’ve heard it while it every gear, it’s faint but it’s there, doesn’t happen every time but usually when I’m getting on it hard and pulling off.

Any guesses?

[grcamna2]

I’m hearing a chirping noise when accelerating, I think I’ve heard it while it every gear, it’s faint but it’s there, doesn’t happen every time but usually when I’m getting on it hard and pulling off.

Any guesses?

My guess is the head-pipe gaskets are leaking.

[Shtonecb500]

for anyone who wants to chime in, has anyone tried a front MC with a bore smaller than 14mm to handle dual disc work up front?

I have a Nissan MC that has a 1/2" bore which is about 12mm, 2mm shorter than the amount recommended for our piston diameters....I think im gonna try it out anyway because this amazon MC is just not up to the task anymore and the lever is never consistent

[HondaMan]

...because this amazon MC is just not up to the task anymore and the lever is never consistent.

Neither is Amazon, IMHO...

[Godffery]

...because this amazon MC is just not up to the task anymore and the lever is never consistent.

Neither is Amazon, IMHO...

I'll second that! >d

[seanbarney41]

for anyone who wants to chime in, has anyone tried a front MC with a bore smaller than 14mm to handle dual disc work up front?

I have a Nissan MC that has a 1/2" bore which is about 12mm, 2mm shorter than the amount recommended for our piston diameters....I think im gonna try it out anyway because this amazon MC is just not up to the task anymore and the lever is never consistent

I tried one once on my F with dual discs, never was able to bleed up enough of a lever.  I don't know if this was my error, or the fact that it was a used Nissin bought off eBay.  Anyway, I ended up with a used '90's era Nissin 5/8"(I think that was the bore size) that has worked great for several years now.  Just the other day I used that same 12mm that wouldn't bleed to push the pistons out of a 750f rear caliper I am working on.  Those 750f rears are 2 piston calipers but smaller than the pistons on the front.  So I don't know what's going  on lol