Topic: Bike from scrapyard Saudi

[BenelliSEI]

BenelliSEI, I made the barbs from aluminium on my small lathe and drilled holes in the inlet rubbers and pushed them in with bathroom silicone with the intention of leaving them in. But the silicone doesn’t hold them, and they can be pulled out.  So I made some new ones with a little step in the middle, and drilled some hose clampers so the clamp will not let them come out, and also used silicone to put them in, I don’t want to run lean while riding it. I use brake callipers bleed nipple covers on the ends

Thanks for theses details. I’ll try and replicate version II.

[Gamma]

As I’m going to use a KOSO speedometer instead of a cable drive, I’ve got these magnets to fit in the disc bolt heads, and a pick up to fit to a fork leg.  I shall have to remove the disc bolts one at a time and drill recessed holes in their heads for the magnets.

[Gamma]

Took the bolts out one at a time, unfortunately they are stainless ones ( not magnetic) as I put longer ones in for the twin disc conversion.  So I drilled and reamed the bolt heads for a transitional fit, as deep as I dared and used loctite bush retainer and tapped them in.  Then modified the supplied bracket and installed the pick-up

[BenelliSEI]

Gamma..... lovely detail work. Enjoy reading about level of attention! Why so many magnets? The sensor I use on my Enduro bike just needs one/ revolution.

[Gamma]

Hi Benelli, yes my bicycle only has one.  The instructions call for 1, 2, 3 or 6 with a 6 bolt disc, but recommends more for a better signal, so as I was doing one I decided to do them all.
Got to get my head around the wiring now and fit a fairing.

[BenelliSEI]

Slick! Like the entire build. Enjoy!

[Don R]

 That looks like it came that way.  My racecar has a pickup on the driveshaft for shaft RPM, I've had two different people tell me that a bolt (sensor) is almost touching that metal ring on the yoke. lol.  Comparing the engine rpm to shaft rpm reveals a 4% slip in the converter at the 1/4 mile. Much greater at the 1/8.

[Gamma]

After a few months doing family things, back on the bike. Making a carrier from stainless steel for the front fender, bought from Motoforza Czech

[BenelliSEI]

Superb! Following closely.....

[Medyo Bastos]

Looks great from my house!


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[Gamma]

Now got to figure a way to mount the seat unit

[Stev-o]

Would something like this work to mount your seat?

[Don R]

 Drag specialties used to make a frame clamp that looks like that in chrome.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Would something like this work to mount your seat?

I once used those rubber clamp seat mounts.  Unfortunately, the rubber supports the weight of the rider and absorbs quite a bit of the bumps in the road.  After a few months of heavy riding, the rubber clamps started cracking and failing.  Great idea, but the clamps would have held up if they were steel or aluminum and had bushings instead of being all rubber.

[Stev-o]

Would something like this work to mount your seat?

I once used those rubber clamp seat mounts.  Unfortunately, the rubber supports the weight of the rider and absorbs quite a bit of the bumps in the road.  After a few months of heavy riding, the rubber clamps started cracking and failing.  Great idea, but the clamps would have held up if they were steel or aluminum and had bushings instead of being all rubber.

Thanks for your review, Don.  I ended up not using them, mounted the seat frame directly to the frame.
Just thought it may give Gamma an option.

[Alan F.]

There are many styles and sizes of 'light bar clamps' widely available and inexpensive.

[Gamma]

Thanks for the idea, but I think that as I have a strong flat piece of aluminium supporting the battery tray and tank, I am thinking of making a plywood base for the seat and then bolting it, or making a quick release system for it

[Alan F.]

Yes that's a good plan, a subframe to support hinges & latch & rubber bumpers like a stock seat to support rider weight.

[Gamma]

I’ve been working sporadically on the bike.  I’ve now fitted the fibreglass seat unit, I put a plywood base on it and it bolts to an alloy plate above the battery compartment.  I still need to make a foam seat and it will be velcroed to the seat.  I fitted a couple of rear stop/tail lights and bought a rear indicator/licence plate holder from China. This I had to modify by adding an alloy extension as the original supplied is too short.  I fitted a bottle to collect fumes/oil from the cam cover breather pipe. I’ve just installed the DID 530 x-ring chain, with the cheap Chinese chain rivetting tool, that I had to modify to do the job properly.

[Gamma]

Oh, and after a lot of thought and research, I decided to go with YSS shock absorbers.  The top mountings of these shocks are thinner than the original which turned out quite well for me.
Because the swinging arm that I am using is a K7 with drum brake fitted to an F1 frame.  The swinging arm is not symmetrical, the left hand side of the swinging arm is further out from the centre of the wheel than the right hand side, (probably up to about 15mm more) this was I believe to accommodate the 630 chain.  My rear wheel is laced centrally and is bushed to align with the centre of the frame.  I also machined my hub to line up the sprocket and fit a 530 chain. Therefore the left hand shock needs to be spaced out away from the frame at its top mounting point, so that it is perpendicular to the ground and not canted in.  Fortunately spacing it out 6mm appears to get it pretty good, I made two spacers, one to go inboard the LH shock and the other to go outboard on the RH shock.  This would all have been a lot easier if I’d stuck with the F1 swinging arm, or got a K6 one that uses a 530 chain😀
Also my swinging arm has new lower mounting bushes fitted, but the lower fork of the shocks has about 1mm of play, so I shall be installing two 0.5mm shims each side of the bush so that the alloy fork legs are not compressed and distorted when I tighten the mounting bolt.  Also, (wait for it😀) the original lower mounting bolts are too short for the new shocks by about 5mm or so, so I shall need longer ones.

[grcamna2]

Gamma,your model of YSS rear shocks look like they have good features 

[Alan F.]

YSS is a big player with upgrade kits for Royal Enfield 650 models, they're very well reputed.

[newday777]

Nice looking spacer on that shock.

[Gamma]

They have pre-load and rebound adjust, and a 10mm length adjustment.  I’ve read quite a few comments over the years on this forum about shocks. Particularly IKON and Hagon.  It’s helped me tremendously with decision making. The shocks cost me 365euros here in Spain. Brexit has meant that I buy only in mainland Europe now, as anything I order from the good old UK has import duties attached. 

[HondaMan]

Oh, and after a lot of thought and research, I decided to go with YSS shock absorbers.  The top mountings of these shocks are thinner than the original which turned out quite well for me.
Because the swinging arm that I am using is a K7 with drum brake fitted to an F1 frame.  The swinging arm is not symmetrical, the left hand side of the swinging arm is further out from the centre of the wheel than the right hand side, (probably up to about 15mm more) this was I believe to accommodate the 630 chain.  My rear wheel is laced centrally and is bushed to align with the centre of the frame.  I also machined my hub to line up the sprocket and fit a 530 chain. Therefore the left hand shock needs to be spaced out away from the frame at its top mounting point, so that it is perpendicular to the ground and not canted in.  Fortunately spacing it out 6mm appears to get it pretty good, I made two spacers, one to go inboard the LH shock and the other to go outboard on the RH shock.  This would all have been a lot easier if I’d stuck with the F1 swinging arm, or got a K6 one that uses a 530 chain😀

Wish I'd seen this earlier: I think I have a K4 (same as K6) swingarm hanging in the shed.