Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video

[MCRider]

Once again I have a couple of updates with pics possibly out of order, who cares? 
Prepping the carbs for the trip to Nils for vapor blasting. Though I chromed the tops and floatbowls, the bodies and rack are still dirty. I sodablasted them a few years ago, but I think the vapor blasting will provide a better finish.

(Photobucket not cooperating. I'll come back in a few hours)
Photobucket still acting up. 

[Don R]

 Years ago hot rod mag did an article on sealing a gasket leak by pulling a slight vacuum on the engine, squirting some brake clean on the leak and cleaning it outside. Then they added sealer with just enough vacuum to suck it into the leak but not so much it pulled through, I think they used manifold vac from a running engine.

[RAFster122s]

Don, where did they apply the vacuum on the motor? Which sealing surface was bad in their example?

Ron, all OK in Indy?

Been several days since you posted.
David

[RAFster122s]

Ron,
I hope you have been staying out of hospital or ER and they have stabilized things and you are recovering nicely. 

Since Mike felt your exhaust was holding back the bike by not flowing enough air at high rpms, then you might be seeing some gains.    He massaged the ports and while not a Stage 3 job his expertise is  incredible in giving the bikes more potential with proper cams and exhaust and intake side  .

So several weeks ago, I bought a 4-2 "production" pipe from CycleX. Ken told me not to expect more HP. I am not really. What I wanted was clearance to pull the oil pan and inspect the pump screen, and ability to pull the oil filter without dropping oil on the pipe. And finally, I love the sound of the Marshall, but I think these will sound as nice, but louder. Since I'm not riding it anymore, and caring about the neighbors and noise pollution, louder goes over better at the shows. People would gather around the bike, and ask me to start it. You could tell just by looking at their faces that they were disappointed in how quiet it was.

The way it is, the muffler kicks way out to the right of the bike. The CycleX tucks in real nice with small cans on either side of the swingarm. They are straight through baffles and I expect it to be medium loud. Louder than the Marshall, but not as much as a replica like Carpy's.






To the extent louder means faster, maybe it will be.     I think the real holdback to 1/4 mile times has been the launch. Our new rider may be better at that. Rick said his son has experience holeshotting large flat track dirt bikes.

[RAFster122s]

The way that baffle on those pipes is designed do the cones on the tips have any affect on the exhaust pulses?  With glow fuel model airplane motors using tuned pipes they are optimized to operate with maximum hp and rpm at a narrow band that could be calculated to get you into the ballpark on pipe length and the like.  The return pulse being designed not to be reflected at the wrong time by meeting the next exhaust pulse opening but meeting the surface prior to opening to increase velocities and scavenging of the cylinder.  I do not understand motor cycle exhausts well enough to  know much about them.  But with the baffle disk like that it appears any reverse cone or cone  is negated by the baffle since it is a perpendicular  plate sealing the baffled area. Only the straight through flow that does not expand into the baffle's packing would travel through and out and the cone attached to the pipe would only affect the exhaust gas by the size of its opening.  That to me looks like the end of the exhaust pipe is merely for decoration.

[MCRider]

All's well, thx for asking. Got started on a post, then Photobucket wouldn't cooperate and I got sidetracked with work and stuff.

Ken told me not to expect more hp with that pipr, it wasn't designed with that in mind. Just a good looking replacement. I would guess the cones are for looks and won't add or detract.

[MCRider]

Trying to get caught up on updates. But first, is this OK? The final drive seal is not quite flush with the highest part of the cases, and a little proud of the cases where its lower.

Is this OK. Should I crack the cases and push the seal in further? Can't believe I missed this.



IIRC, the seal is not lipped, and there is little to no pressure behind it.

[edwardmorris]

My ignorant 2c: Tap it flush with a PVC pipe first to see if that'll fix it?

[MCRider]

My ignorant 2c: Tap it flush with a PVC pipe first to see if that'll fix it?

I tried that a little, but with the case torqued together, it won't budge.

[edwardmorris]

My ignorant 2c: Tap it flush with a PVC pipe first to see if that'll fix it?

I tried that a little, but with the case torqued together, it won't budge.

Hmm, strange tbh. I thought the only way to install this one was with the cases apart until I saw Dean's vid series. He installed his after the cases were back together and it went right in. I believe Dave Z replaced his the same way too. I hope you don't have to split cases again, good luck.

[MCRider]

My ignorant 2c: Tap it flush with a PVC pipe first to see if that'll fix it?

I tried that a little, but with the case torqued together, it won't budge.

Hmm, strange tbh. I thought the only way to install this one was with the cases apart until I saw Dean's vid series. He installed his after the cases were back together and it went right in. I believe Dave Z replaced his the same way too. I hope you don't have to split cases again, good luck.

MAybe I'll loosen the case bolts, but not the mains, and see if it will tap in some more. Would like to know if its good as is, though.

If people are installing it without splitting the cases, it must be possible to tap it in a little.

[MCRider]

I had a piece of PVC nearly exactly the diameter of the seal. We loosened the rear case bolts and the 6mm case bolts, then dried to drive it in some more. It seemed to go in a little, but it may have been just a temporary deformation. Nevertheless, we tightens it all back up, and moved on. Cleaned off and installed the oil pump. Installed the oil pan, cleaned it up.

Scraped the gasket off the shifter cover. Put the shifter parts back in. Trans shaft bearing holder, replaced the 4 flat head, screws that hold the bearing cap. Got some new ones as the old ones were past using. Having the JIS impact driver bits, and screwdrivers, from the vender here are a never ending joy. They fit so much better.

I bought this sign years ago, tongue in cheek humor. Though a little ironic in the last few years. But finally it nearly fell off the wall, the fasteners having wallowed out. A fine set of lead molly's, SS screws and fender washers should hold it on for the duration. Busted Knuckle Garage. Tell me about it.   

[MCRider]

The purpose of this teardown: no sealer on the "saddle" areas either side of each main bearing.


We got the cases pretty clean...


A fine uniform coating of nonhardening gasket goo, on both cases, and the main bearing saddles. We used Q-tips and wood slivers to apply and smooth out.



After several false starts (pinning the shift fork, property setting the final drive shaft, etc.) we got the 2 back together. Having lightly gooped the threads of the main bearing HD studs, we gooped copper washers too, and torqued the HD nuts (13mm hex) and think we may be close to putting it back in.

[andy750]

My ignorant 2c: Tap it flush with a PVC pipe first to see if that'll fix it?

I tried that a little, but with the case torqued together, it won't budge.

Hmm, strange tbh. I thought the only way to install this one was with the cases apart until I saw Dean's vid series. He installed his after the cases were back together and it went right in. I believe Dave Z replaced his the same way too. I hope you don't have to split cases again, good luck.

MAybe I'll loosen the case bolts, but not the mains, and see if it will tap in some more. Would like to know if its good as is, though.

If people are installing it without splitting the cases, it must be possible to tap it in a little.

I have installed the final drive seal on my K2 without splitting/loosening the cases. Used a custom-made drift to get it in nice and tight. Took 2 or 3 seals to get it right!

good luck!
Andy

[MCRider]

Thanks Andy! I drove it in a skosh using a piece of PVC that was a near perfect fit. Onwards.

I got a set of crankcase bolts, 6mm and 8 and 10s, zinc plated from Yamiya. Their zinc most have been polished cause its brighter than OEM.  Also got the elusive 8mm x 60mm flange bolt with a 14mm hex.









IF you can see above the swingarm... there is a birdsnest of wiring from HondaMans transistor ignition. I love the ignition and  I didn't do it any service when I installed it. I just shoved all the wire under the battery box. Now that I have good access to it, we'll trim it down and install some connectors to make it more ... better. 



Excelsior!

[MCRider]

Oh yeah. My original build code was to replace all tubing with clear. What I've found is that all the clear I got hold of, hardened in short order, making it hard to seal and just work with in general. I got all new black tubing from Yamiya which promises to be much easier.

[RAFster122s]

Ron, odds are there was a bit of oxidation on the originals you have seen.  The level of polish of the cases is often not as dull as many might believed, so, having the case screws being polished may be a bit brighter than we would consider.

But that said, zinc fasteners have to be polished after plating before the passivation process.

Was your clear tube a tygon? Lots of clear tubes do not hold up to gas. There are a couple tygon formulations...I don't use  it but either the yellow or green tygon tubing is compatible with gasoline.

[PeWe]

My seal look the same. I was a little bit worried too and hammered a little on it with a heavy nylon hammer after I loosened the bolts, but I doubt it changed anything.
There is no oil dripping.... now 600km done. I used a thin layer of Permatex Aviation stuff on the 2-3mm outer half of the seal. The lip around shaft seems to seal too.

[MCRider]

Ron, odds are there was a bit of oxidation on the originals you have seen.  The level of polish of the cases is often not as dull as many might believed, so, having the case screws being polished may be a bit brighter than we would consider.

But that said, zinc fasteners have to be polished after plating before the passivation process.

Was your clear tube a tygon? Lots of clear tubes do not hold up to gas. There are a couple tygon formulations...I don't use  it but either the yellow or green tygon tubing is compatible with gasoline.

Thanks as always, Raff. My clear was not Tygon. I'm using the soft black OEM now to eliminate any hassles.  I had used the clear for the oil breathers, but it would get hard also, and would collapse in a gentle curve.

[MCRider]

Here's a few weeks rolled into one.

Final Hardware for rear of cases:


What does this rubber ring go to? Its smaller than the oil filter. Just found it laying on my workbench.



With the oil tank off, we noticed a stain in the powdercoat running from the knob at top to the vent nipple at the bottom. An oily film. I assume it was getting on things down below. There is a pinhole in the weld of the knob. I can't get a piece of safety wire into the hole more than a mm, but it could be turning a corner. Odd.





Got the engine side cover polish restored. Hard to believe its been years since they were first done. The small amount of exposure to the elements, plus the humidity in the shop, caused the shine to dull.



Engine goes back in soon.   

[grcamna2]

Nice to see you 'freshening it up' Bill 

[MCRider]

Nice to see you 'freshening it up' Bill 

Yeah. New hand grips, the old ones had faded, new seat hardware, etc.

[MCRider]

Engine is back in! Yay! Thanks to CBJoe and Pat McKee.

[RAFster122s]

Good news on engine reinstall...
polishing can be very satisfying watching the shine return...  wax off, wax on

A spot of JB weld can fill your hole after a couple acetone wipe downs.

Health been OK Ron?

[CBJoe]

Engine is back in! Yay! Thanks to CBJoe and Pat McKee.

Just let me know when the start up is planned   I'll bring the champagne (or grape juice)


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