Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video

[MCRider]

Well I need a new keyboard now because I drowned it in drool....

Absolutely gorgeous.

Are the collars on the shocks aluminum? How about anodizing?

Seem to be. I'll give a call to an anodizer.

I should have tossed them in with the PowderCoating I just had done. If I can think of a few other pieces to make it worth their while, I'll do another batch.  There is no gold on the right side of the wheel. The chrome on the brake stay is pitted though it looks good in the picture. Maybe it and the brake actuator rod, and the shock collars. Hmmm...

Rod, Stay, and Collars would round everything out pretty well me thinks....

Not quite enough for a batch. Maybe add the disc brake caliper brackets, the fork brace...

In any event it can always be done later.

[CBJoe]

I'm gonna have to check out the powder coating shop your using over the winter.

New Roof and bits for my poor old house comes first, but I've got aspirations for a winter project of a '79 XS750 that I picked up.  I keep seeing all of the brat/cafe yamaha's on the Inspiration Gallery that get my imagination working.



Cheers, Joe

[Ichiban 4]

Hey Ron..

Been meaning to relay to you: Devcon makes this product called "Grip-ton-ite" plastic super glue.  

It's made especially for bonding plastic..and it works..I can tell you.  The only plastic it doesn't work well on is high density polyethylene..but excepting food containers that's usually not an issue.  Most of the plastic on our Honda's is molded or injected polystyrene (maybe polycarbonate in addition)..if memory serves.

I've used the Grip-ton-ite on a seriously cracked chain guard/cover on my 550..and it worked perfectly (had to sand off the excess/welt after it set overnight though).  It just doesn't "glue the pieces together"..it kinda welds them together..without dissolving it (which some other supposed "plastic weld" products I've used before..have BTW).

I got the product at my local full-service hardware store..but I'm guessing that because it's a Devcon product (comes in small 2 gram tubes)..it could be ordered on-line if necessary. [Part number #30350]

Anyway..excepting your needing to repaint your broken side cover after repairing it..I seriously recommend the Grip-ton-ite product as something you could easily acquire..and apply yourself.  Let me know if you decide to use it..and good luck..okay?

Later,

Al / Ichi
________________________________________________________
Now the bad news. When extracting the side cover from the new grommets, I pulled a little hard, the side cover pivoted on the front grommet into the frame gusset and "SNAP", the corner broke off.



So sad. That cover had already been repaired once. It would truly have been sad had I not already decided that paint job was out.



But that guy has since retired. So I'll try this guy for this repair...

[whrdog]

you could try plastex it worked for my 550.

[mazingerzeca]

I have done some repairs on cracks on plastics with Ethyl Methyl Ketone, read it in this forum or somewhere. With the same plastic (taken from another damaged sidecover or headlight shell), cut very small pieces and put it on a pot with EMK and let it melt for two days. Then you will have a "glue" which gets mixtured with the cracked sidecover, given that is the same material. It works really well, is like adding the same plastic on the crack. I made it on my sidecover, which had a crack, and on my headlight shell.

[MCRider]

Thanks guys, I am aware of the DIY methods, very effective by some here.

I've already sent my sidecover out to be welded, so its on to the next thing for me.

[mystic_1]

I'd say it's a testament to the original repair that the cover cracked in a new place rather than at the repair site.  Hope the new fix turns out as well.

mystic_1

[MCRider]

I'd say it's a testament to the original repair that the cover cracked in a new place rather than at the repair site.  Hope the new fix turns out as well.

mystic_1

Yup, that first repair was done 9 years ago by "Otto Mares" in Chicago, "Mares Cycle"  a real odd duck 1st gen German mechanic, he drilled my discs, retired now.

Son does some work, not plastic welding though, and only by appointment and won't return my emails. Guess he's booked up.

[MCRider]

So I got some work done. Today was VIN plate.

Steering head holes were virtually gone, just a shadow below the powdercoat.


nothing some drilling wouldn't cure. But curious, as it wasn't just powder I was drilling thru but metal, or baked in glass beads, or something. It gave some resistance.

The rivets supplied by forum member Mark B,



were a little bit bigger than the holes in the VIN plate. Not wanting to force them thru, we drilled out the vin plate. Taped it to a piece of PVC for some stability.



After tapping the rivets in



Even though we had pre-curved the VIN plate hoping it would lie flat, 2 corners tried to come up. So we shoved some glue under the corners (there was a bead of glue under the plate to begin with as well) and taped it down.



This seemed to work pretty well. You could still get a fingernail under an edge if you tried, so don't try.   



The abrasions on the VIN plate are from years of the clutch cable rubbing on it.

Assembled the seat latch with new chrome hardware, chrome buttonheads hold it on.



Thought I had the masking done, but forgot the studs. So they're done now.



Still going round with the renovators on my tank. It may be shot. If so, I'm thinking I'll take the petcock bung off and have it welded to the left side of the old black tank, which has no rust and the tiniest of gooseeggs which can be filled.

Gotta be gone for the week on biz. Hate to leave it.

[Ecosse]

two things mc:

1) not to put a dimmer on things but is there any chance of debris getting into the steering head bearings?

2) that's a lot of blue tape. the local hardware store must love you. 

[MCRider]

two things mc:

1) not to put a dimmer on things but is there any chance of debris getting into the steering head bearings?

2) that's a lot of blue tape. the local hardware store must love you.  

What I've learned is that the steering stem is actually two tubes. The outer tube we see and the inner tube with the bearings. The holes I drilled, the bits would only go so far, then they were in space, then they hit the inner tube and of course i didn't drill thru that.  The measurement on the rivet is pertinent as if the rivet were much longer it would hit the inner tube and stop, the head would not seat on the VIN plate.

So to your concern, no chance of contamination.

The front end is just mocked up for now and is scheduled to come off one more time anyway.

We're at the end of one roll. I had a small domestic project too so it went pretty far. That's the low adhesive stuff, you probably realize, so it comes off easy and doesn't leave much behind.

[Ecosse]

  i should know better than that; i didn't really second guess you but the question popped into my pea brain.

i have that tape and it's great stuff.

[MCRider]

i should know better than that; i didn't really second guess you but the question popped into my pea brain.

i have that tape and it's great stuff.

Perfectly valid question. I just learned of the anatomy of the steering head from someone here. About 6-12 months ago someone had damaged their frame around the steering head, and was dissecting it and came across the dual tube thing. Otherwise I would have never known.

I guess the tubes are joined, welded at the top and bottom. Don't know why they are that way, probably adds strength.

[HavocTurbo]

I guess the tubes are joined, welded at the top and bottom. Don't know why they are that way, probably adds strength.

The one pleace where it was actually needed. Unlike the 500lbs of double walled tubing at joints where there's no real drastic forces. You know.... like the rear peg mounts.

 

Bike looks awesome. Who do I get the rivets from? You just tap them in? That's it?

[MCRider]

I guess the tubes are joined, welded at the top and bottom. Don't know why they are that way, probably adds strength.

The one pleace where it was actually needed. Unlike the 500lbs of double walled tubing at joints where there's no real drastic forces. You know.... like the rear peg mounts.

 

Bike looks awesome. Who do I get the rivets from? You just tap them in? That's it?

"markb" had them. Don't know if he still does. Shoot him a PM. Yes they are steel, and are spiraled. As you tap them in, they screw themselves in. I was a little hesitant, but I drilled the hole slightly smaller than the spiral. There is a pilot shoulder on the tip of the rivet that sets in the hole. Then about 10 firm taps and they were home.

Ideally, there is a driver like a punch with a concave tip that fits the round head. To keep the head round as you smack it. But mine hardly shows the effects of the flat hammer face at all.

Hesitant because its the kind of thing that felt like you don't get a second chance.  Reality probably if you could get a hold of the head with some pliars you could reverse it out if it was cocked or putting up too much resistance.

I just wanted it to look fresh, not mangled, and it came out OK.

[HondaMan]

While the top end is still apart, here's some more mods to reduce top-end friction (and thus add more RWHP...).

[andy750]

While the top end is still apart, here's some more mods to reduce top-end friction (and thus add more RWHP...).

Can you please explain this mod for the uneducated (i.e. me!). I have a top end apart as well ;-)

thanks
Andy

[bucky katt]

wish i still had my vin plate. the bike is looking fantastic!

[HondaMan]

While the top end is still apart, here's some more mods to reduce top-end friction (and thus add more RWHP...).

Can you please explain this mod for the uneducated (i.e. me!). I have a top end apart as well ;-)

thanks
Andy

I'll send you a PM (don't want to tear up MC's thread...  ).

[voxonda]

While the top end is still apart, here's some more mods to reduce top-end friction (and thus add more RWHP...).

Can you please explain this mod for the uneducated (i.e. me!). I have a top end apart as well ;-)

thanks
Andy

I'll send you a PM (don't want to tear up MC's thread...  ).

Hey Mark,

Please send me a PM too, am interested too.

Thanks.

[mystic_1]

While the top end is still apart, here's some more mods to reduce top-end friction (and thus add more RWHP...).

Can you please explain this mod for the uneducated (i.e. me!). I have a top end apart as well ;-)

thanks
Andy

I'll send you a PM (don't want to tear up MC's thread...  ).

Hey Mark,

Please send me a PM too, am interested too.

Thanks.

+1

mystic_1

[HavocTurbo]

And me as well please??

MC-

I was thinking about the rear shocks. What about having them coated in brass? Might give you that gold look if your frame and be different all at the same time.

[oldfett]

With everyone, including me, interested in this mod maybe it would be best to create a quick topic on it? Pretty please...


Also MC, I log on every morning to check the updates of your fine looking machine. I have to say that sometimes it does help me get through the day!

[HondaMan]

Hey Mark,

Please send me a PM too, am interested too.

Thanks.

+1
mystic_1

And me as well please??

With everyone, including me, interested in this mod maybe it would be best to create a quick topic on it? Pretty please...

Ok, I made a new post.
(Sorry, MC...  )

[MCRider]

Hey Mark,

Please send me a PM too, am interested too.

Thanks.

+1
mystic_1

And me as well please??

With everyone, including me, interested in this mod maybe it would be best to create a quick topic on it? Pretty please...

Ok, I made a new post.
(Sorry, MC...   )

hey no problem. Can't imagine why you would even say sorry. Wouldn't wwant to bury topics like these in my build thread.

Just got back from a week conference, weirde to not even log in for so long.

As to your mod HondaMan, if it is what i see, those new holes are just in the places where the reinforced rocker cover bolts would touch down. I'll follow your thread for comments.

PS: I now see that there are 8 holes per stand. the 4 outside holes would interfere with a reinforced rocker cover, the 4 inner would be OK.