Author Topic: I've been K0'd! (Read 130153 times)

Don R · « **Reply #375 on:** November 02, 2016, 06:42:06 PM »

I've been working on E1002695, I drove to Tim's ATM cycles in New Jersey to pick up a 1970 no number replacement engine and a sandcast head, I got a cylinder off of Ebay and a second head from the parts wanted here. Tonight I removed the K5 top end from the sandcast crankcase. It also has the k5 engine covers and flywheel, I'll probably move the top end to a stuck K6 engine with 10,000 miles on it.
I already have a sandcast rocker cover and left side covers, I'm going to try to weld up a 10 hole cover, I read somewhere it's a zinc alloy. I hope that's not true. Now I need a flywheel puller.

Don R · « **Reply #376 on:** November 06, 2016, 07:40:22 AM »

Quote from: Don R on September 30, 2009, 01:08:27 PM

This will start the build thread of my K0 plus. The plan is to do a day 2 restoration. Some parts will be simulated K0. I would like it to look original but a full on resto is too costly and the original engine is long lost. When I first posted it someone said, welcome to our personal hell. I now understand.
Now for pictures. This is how it was purchased.

Over the years I've collected fork ears, sidecovers, correct handlebars, a nice headlight bucket, a ducktail seat, correct turn signals, short chain guard, the original wrinkle tank and more recently a 1970 replacement engine. I guess in retrospect I can do a proper day 2 restoration. I'll leave the mags and 4-1 at least for now. Maybe someday I'll find a cut fender that some fool didn't bob.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #377 on:** November 06, 2016, 09:09:43 AM »

You and Bud are gonna look real nice together on that seat

Don R · « **Reply #378 on:** November 06, 2016, 04:49:00 PM »

Bud just sold me all of his bikes, his blood pressure goes high and low leaving him not knowing when he will be able to hold one up at a stop sign. So it's true he might end up on back. That said, he took our sister to check out a gl1500 3 wheeler.

Don R · « **Reply #379 on:** November 09, 2016, 08:14:43 PM »

Out of all my parts I don't seem to have an R1 cam. Does it really matter that much to a sandcast guy? Yes, I bet it does to get the last dollar out of one.

kmb69 · « **Reply #380 on:** November 09, 2016, 09:07:33 PM »

The R1 is a casting/forging designation and does not indicate the grind of the cam.
I do not know how high the Rx number can go and still potentially be a Sandcast grind.
Pretty sure you may find R1's as late as K6, maybe later.
Lots of posts over the years on cam markings - some posts correct - some not so much.
You have to use madmtnmotors' Google search technique to find them.

There are some unique markings on most early Sandcast cams.
Here are 2 pictures of a sandcast cam. The other pics Bill refers to were on the for sale forum and history doesn't go back far enough.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,154690.msg1772527.html#msg1772527

754 · « **Reply #381 on:** November 09, 2016, 09:11:07 PM »

The early cam, dont they have a ring or rings machined between two of the lobes?

kmb69 · « **Reply #382 on:** November 10, 2016, 08:26:55 AM »

Quote from: 754 on November 09, 2016, 09:11:07 PM

The early cam, dont they have a ring or rings machined between two of the lobes?

Frank, that doesn't ring any bells for me. Gonna have to dig one out and look. I wanna say the F2-F3's have an extra upset ring cast/forged on them.

Don R · « **Reply #383 on:** November 10, 2016, 07:11:39 PM »

I'm aware the R# isn't the grind just the core used for the casting. I have an f2 cam, it has rectangles cast in and it's R11. At a glance I thought it was the golden one.

Don R · « **Reply #384 on:** November 13, 2016, 10:28:23 PM »

8 11 casting mark,on E 5930 on E 2695 it is 6 11.

Don R · « **Reply #385 on:** November 14, 2016, 12:41:35 PM »

A K0 and K1 use a special cam chain guide, it's shorter on the bottom, This sandy had a K6 cylinder and the lower hole in the guide was cracked due to an incorrect parts fit. Now, all these parts where is that K0 guide I used to have? The cylinder won't seat properly, I've been studying it all day, then remembered the part is different. I saw it here once.

I got a nice K2 guide off ebay for $12, it fit after a bit of tusseling I should have dipped it in oil first. I did sand the edges a bit, it appeared as new.

Don R · « **Reply #386 on:** November 19, 2016, 09:35:45 AM »

I was straightening fins, it was going well and then the worst one snapped off. It needed welding anyway. Now I can get the chipped fins welded also.

bill440cars · « **Reply #387 on:** November 19, 2016, 11:20:13 AM »

Don, I just got started on checking out your build. I kinda skimmed a few pages and realized real quick that I need to find the time and go through this, in it's entirety. Cool Build, From what I have already seen.

It'll take me while to catch up, but I'll get there.

Don R · « **Reply #388 on:** November 21, 2016, 07:48:49 AM »

Thanks Bill, I have a diecast then a sandcast and a sandcast engine in the thread. I actually sat down and read it all today. I noticed a few things I got wrong and posted edits where that happened. I've learned a lot since this began. And the first bike still isn't painted. lol.

Don R · « **Reply #389 on:** November 29, 2016, 02:13:46 PM »

We're trying to hash out which head is correct for a sandcast and which is a diecast in the tech forum. It may be the opposite of what I believe,d or it may be either.

Don R · « **Reply #390 on:** February 12, 2017, 08:42:02 PM »

I bought an early 1970 engine last fall and expect to purchase another one this week so I should have enough parts to build a numbers correct engine for the diecast 70 Both are sans the center front bolt hole so I should have enough parts for the sandcast engine and then the diecast engine for my 70 keeper bike.
It gets crazy deciding how far to restore a hot rodded bike, it really needs nothing except a paint job but a matching engine would be awesome too. Then a set of 300 pipes.

Don R · « **Reply #391 on:** February 16, 2017, 10:31:02 PM »

I scored an early, 750 replacement case engine, missing the points, advancer and clutch. No center bolt, blank number pad but recall punched???
The seller had a set of 71 gauges and a single cut, crusty and dented front fender. Total bill $210. Plus 1,300 miles worth of gas at 33 mpg (Honda) One night in a motel and a free day at The Air Force Museum at Dayton Oh. 46 hours round trip. 3 memorable meals including The Backwoods Café Pub and live bait Diner. I had the chicken wings not the live bait. (I'm pretty sure)

RAFster122s · « **Reply #392 on:** February 17, 2017, 01:17:55 AM »

Congrats on the score! AF Museum is pretty cool, eh? Keep telling yourself that last line until you at least pass that meal...

David

Don R · « **Reply #393 on:** February 17, 2017, 12:34:46 PM »

I got the head and cylinder off, it's standard bore, the cam is an R7 core and looks good, There are a few oversize bolts in and under the cam holder. I'd like to go back to all metric but will need some coaching on helicoil and timesert sizes. The stator is MIA and the dyno cover is cracked. Shifter cover has a shift pattern, and a broken top fin on the head but the good news is the head and cylinder are correct for early K0, it has the big flywheel. If it wasn't for the oversize bolts I'd say it was only ever apart for the case replacement. A PO liked allen bolts too, it had several and acorn head bolts on the dyno cover. The early cam cover was drilled for an extra vent and chromed. Now I need to find a junk head to cut a fin off of.

Don R · « **Reply #394 on:** February 18, 2017, 09:28:25 PM »

I cut fin off a junk head and sanded it to fit, the broken one had been previously repaired with bondo but it broke off too. I'll have it welded Monday.

Don R · « **Reply #395 on:** February 19, 2017, 06:33:10 PM »

Don R · « **Reply #396 on:** February 19, 2017, 06:34:24 PM »

Note the late model gasket, this is the one with the replacement case so it's been apart for sure.

Don R · « **Reply #397 on:** February 23, 2017, 09:36:22 PM »

OK, so I was looking through my gauges and realized I have a totaled out 71 (bashed front) and a totaled out 69 speedo (bashed rear), the difference being plastic (69/70) or metal (71)housings, and the dial's are a little different. Anyway my diecast has always had 71 gauges because it came that way and I'm too cheap to pay up on ebay and too slow to find them here.
Anyway long story shorter, I tried to put the plastic 69 top into the 71 back half. No dice, so I sawed the insert part off the plastic front and it appears I can crimp ring it to the 71 back. So with the replacement faces plastic housings you can buy, I can possibly make two look alike original gauges on the cheap. Or reasonable anyway.

Don R · « **Reply #398 on:** March 16, 2017, 09:02:08 PM »

The grandson of the sandcasts original owner asked me to sell it back to the family. Without naming a price, I asked if he has any idea of the value of a bike like that and gave him an example of what one reportedly not as good sold for. So far I haven't heard back, I do have a price for them. He is a good guy, a Firefighter Captain and I feel like the universe would be in order if they had it back, but I'm not willing to take a huge hit to do that either.
The chain of events that brought it to me was begun by his young dads desire to keep him off the seat.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #399 on:** March 18, 2017, 03:05:45 PM »

You really should not take a hit on the bike, and it might be better to keep him off the seat like the dad wanted... It depends upon his maturity and attitude on the bike, but sometimes, despite your efforts things happen and you have a crash or heaven forbid get killed on the bike. A bad crash can leave you in very bad shape, in a state worse that death I think. Sometimes it is more humane to let you die than go through the rest of your life severely maimed or brain damaged to the point your quality of life afterwards is very small.
My family does not like motorcycles, but for me it is good mental therapy and helps me with the depression I often have. A bad weather day on a bike is usually better than any day inside a car or inside a home or business.
My little sister had bought a Nighthawk 250 and had it for about a year before taking a spill in a corner with gravel. She did not practice good situation awareness and that or her training and mantra to know how to react to situations like that were not well enough to tilt the odds in her favor to making it safely through the corner. She sold that bike after that, not getting back on it and having some road rash.
It was a mid-life crisis type bike...

You stated earlier " I got the head and cylinder off, it's standard bore, the cam is an R7 core and looks good, There are a few oversize bolts in and under the cam holder. "

Is the R7 a type of cam or just the casting number for the mold it came out of... Often cast parts will have numbers that id the casting mold...in case there is a problem to trace back to that mold.

David

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Author Topic: I've been K0'd! (Read 130153 times)