Found some gunk in carburetor slides, cleaned it with scotchbrite.
Looks like the cable was not the reason of hanging slides, 4 days in a row the bike now starts with choke, warms up and idles nicely around 1000. It is not perfect yet, before vacuum gauge synchro, but messing with it every day does wonders for my ability to tune the stop screw and air screw.
There was rusty gunk in the petcock bowl, cleaned it out.
Side note: I landed a job after 9 month, life is great.
Naughty note: The other day, while sitting on the bike, adjusting stop screws on #2 and #3 and checking for reaction, I realized it reminds me working clitoris, same small finger movements - now where is the damn G point? 
Those carbs are great.
The best ones. Easy to adjust and to be able to get to everything.
Do not clamp down the throttle cable. It will not work right.
It does not need to be synced.
With those carbs just make sure all of the slides are all the way down and there is no play in the cable. Then make sure that when you pull on the throttle cable that all 4 slides start to move at the same time.
You can put you finger on the slide and turn the throttle to sense exactly when the carb starts to open.
Also make sure that there is no slack in the cable housings between the splitter box and the carbs.
The throttle cable is not routed the best way. I will post a pic of the way to route the cable so that the tank does not interfere with the throttle cable movement.
With these carbs 1/8 turn of the mixture screw makes a difference.
They really respond to adjustment.
You can use the part of the throttle cable between the handlebar and the splitter box to keep the slack out of the cable and actually adjust the idle that way. It stays in adjustment easier that way.
Click once on the photo and you get a larger image.
