Topic: Mongrel

[Damage Inc]

Gday Damage, are you fitting rear sets to the bike..?  These bikes are horrible with clip ons and stock pegs, ergonomics are all wrong, stock pegs are too far forward and its as uncomfortable as hell, been there done that, if you are running rearsets then you its a bit better but in all seriousness, these bikes aren't really designed to work with clip ons, thats why the CR race bikes have a very long tank, look at the post classic racers, they all use superbike style bars, which clear the tank.....
I'm hearing you, yes have planned all along to have rear sets fitted, and expect a less than comfortable ride. I may have made an error with the bars I've chosen, they are designed for a track bike. I will find it hard to change direction as I'm prone to be a bit "tight".

"100" today

[grcamna2]

Nice looking custom work 'Damage Inc.' 

Thx grcamna2, it's been a slow process. I feel like I'm getting the look I'm after. I'm looking forward to the day I ride it, and that's my motivation.

If you want clip-ons and to retain the stock tank, get some that have a rise to them and are adjustable in the "pull back". It should allow you to have the best of all worlds.

Thx calj737, unfortunately I already have some clip-ons and they aren't of the adjustable variety. I suppose I could consider resale and update to a adjustable set. That's an option.

I like the name of your thread 'Mongrel' ; a 'mongrel' to me is known for having the best mix of interbreeding DNA to make it one of the toughest 'Dogs' out there 
I like your use of strong steel parts which speaks to me of durability over the long haul   

[Damage Inc]

G'day Retro
I some how answered your post before I received it.

[Retro Rocket]

G'day Retro
I some how answered your post before I received it.

 

[Damage Inc]

Nice looking custom work 'Damage Inc.' 

Thx grcamna2, it's been a slow process. I feel like I'm getting the look I'm after. I'm looking forward to the day I ride it, and that's my motivation.

If you want clip-ons and to retain the stock tank, get some that have a rise to them and are adjustable in the "pull back". It should allow you to have the best of all worlds.

Thx calj737, unfortunately I already have some clip-ons and they aren't of the adjustable variety. I suppose I could consider resale and update to a adjustable set. That's an option.

I like the name of your thread 'Mongrel' ; a 'mongrel' to me is known for having the best mix of interbreeding DNA to make it one of the toughest 'Dogs' out there 
I like your use of strong steel parts which speaks to me of durability over the long haul   

I'm impressed with your description of a "mongrel", if it lives up to it, I'll be more than happy. I'm a structural steel fabricator by trade, so I tend to over engineer things. One of my driving motivations to start this build, is to build some different exhaust systems for it and I think they could define the "Mongrel"

[Damage Inc]

I've been assembling my carbs and noticed that the throttle valves aren't all level with each other. I'm assuming that they should be.
Do I get them level by adjusting the "adjuster holder"?


Top photo shows the different levels.

[goldarrow]

This is when bench synch, then vacuum gauge synch come in to play.

[Damage Inc]

This is when bench synch, then vacuum gauge synch come in to play.

Ahhh
Thank you very much goldarrow.

[Damage Inc]

Finished my carby assembly tonight, took me a while to figure out how to get the bowl orings to stay in place.

Moving on to splitting the engine case next.
Deep breath, here goes!

[Damage Inc]

So it appears that the last po to adjust these case bolts, tensioned them with an axe.

I can't get a socket or spanner to grip 2 bolts that look like this one.
Any ideas on how to get them out? I'm not quite ready to weld a nut onto it. Perhaps a pair of vice grips or locking pliers.

[Restoration Fan]

So it appears that the last po to adjust these case bolts, tensioned them with an axe.

I can't get a socket or spanner to grip 2 bolts that look like this one.
Any ideas on how to get them out? I'm not quite ready to weld a nut onto it. Perhaps a pair of vice grips or locking pliers.

I would try vice grips on it first.  If that doesn't work, why not just go ahead and use your nut-welding technique?  After all, you're not going to want to reuse that bolt anyway. 

FWIW, you can purchase entire sets of replacement bolts for pretty reasonable prices on eBay.  I know that you still have shipping costs to incur with shipping to Australia that we didn't have to consider though.
 

[Damage Inc]

Good point calj737, heat always helps.

So it appears that the last po to adjust these case bolts, tensioned them with an axe.

I can't get a socket or spanner to grip 2 bolts that look like this one.
Any ideas on how to get them out? I'm not quite ready to weld a nut onto it. Perhaps a pair of vice grips or locking pliers.

I would try vice grips on it first.  If that doesn't work, why not just go ahead and use your nut-welding technique?  After all, you're not going to want to reuse that bolt anyway. 

FWIW, you can purchase entire sets of replacement bolts for pretty reasonable prices on eBay.  I know that you still have shipping costs to incur with shipping to Australia that we didn't have to consider though.
 

Thx Restoration Fan
I've got the new s/s fasteners for the covers, but I'll look into the engine bolt kits. Some of the philipsheads are pretty grotty as well.

[Damage Inc]

They're not Phillips, they're JIS. The reason they look grotty is lunkheads before you used Phillips bits on them trying to turn them out and in. If you replace them with SS, use some Antiseize on the threads when screwing SS into aluminum.

AlloyBoltz.com has complete kits for about $35 all labeled in separate little baggies for you,

JIS you say!  Thx didn't know that one.
I've got more than a lifetimes supply of nickel based antiseize. I think that's the best for s/s in aluminium.
Will be sure to check that site out thx again.

[Damage Inc]

They're not Phillips, they're JIS. The reason they look grotty is lunkheads before you used Phillips bits on them trying to turn them out and in. If you replace them with SS, use some Antiseize on the threads when screwing SS into aluminum.

AlloyBoltz.com has complete kits for about $35 all labeled in separate little baggies for you,

I looked at the site and the kits I found were similar, if not the same as what I already have. They do the covers on the sides and head. I'd be interested in a kit for the upper and lower case. Have you seen one of these and I'm just missing it? I was wondering if Allen heads would even be suitable, considering the tensioning required.

[Damage Inc]

Having some difficulty separating the cases, I think all relevant bolts are out. There is 2 in top photo which I don't think that they needed to be removed yet. The" tap lightly with a wooden hammer" is having no effect. Who knows what they've been glued together with previously!

[Damage Inc]

Still having problem splitting these cases!
No amount of hammering , with a nylon hammer. Not getting any movement.
Some tips or tricks would be appreciated.

[grcamna2]

possibly soak the whole bottom end in a tank of warm fluid for a while?

[Kemp]

bet there is one bolt still holding it together!!

[Damage Inc]

bet there is one bolt still holding it together!!

Is someone running a book? Your probably on the favourite there. If there is an internal bolt that would be it..
There is only the two large bolts externally that haven't been removed, which you see in the top picture

[Damage Inc]

And the winner is "Kemp".
One internal bolt I missed in the manual.
2 taps and split.
Thx guys for your tips.

[Damage Inc]

Today I've dropped the crank and conrods off to the engine shop, to be balanced. They said that they'll clean up the bearing surfaces as well.
So I've decided to replace the main and big end bearings, while I'm at it.

[grcamna2]

And the winner is "Kemp".
One internal bolt I missed in the manual.
2 taps and split.
Thx guys for your tips.

That's good you found it rather than pulling your hair out 

[Damage Inc]

And the winner is "Kemp".
One internal bolt I missed in the manual.
2 taps and split.
Thx guys for your tips.

That's good you found it rather than pulling your hair out 

I'm glad I resisted the urge to follow the advise of a friend to drive a flat head screwdriver between the cases.

I want to remove this bearing before I pressure wash and paint strip the case. Thinking a bit of heat and it may drop out. The slide hammer didn't move it.

[Damage Inc]

I've been removing paint from the engine cases and the sump cover. One of the fins on the cover is ground down.

Is this normal and required for some clearance? If not I'll build it up to match the others.

How prone are the head studs to stretching? Is there merit in replacing them?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The studs are prone to stretch. HD studs will allow you to torque down the head tighter. In my case, it cured a leak issue.