Topic: Stripping the Anodizing off 750A and GL allow rims

[lone*X]

Got a good straight set of 750A/GL rims that I want to lace to my 550K1 hubs with new spokes.  They have the normal surface scratches and blemishes.  While I could just lace them on as they are and they would look pretty good, I would like to polish them.  Has anyone had any success removing the anodizing off these alloy rims?  How?  That crap is HARD!

[Sam Green Racing]

I'll be keeping my eye on this one.
My Auto has its fair share of blemishes on the rims but its built for GO, not SHOW.
It might be worth it if there is an easy option.

Sam.

[lone*X]

As hard as the anodizing is I rather doubt it is going to be easy.  Nice A model.  Never rode one but always wanted to.

[jason41987]

anodizing isnt so much a surface treatment... it uses an acid and electricity to erode tiny pores into the surface.. the colors you see is usually a dye that is soaked into the now porous outter layer of the metal.... its not supposed to come off easy because its actually in the metal itself

[lone*X]

Agreed, but it is a surface treatment and it can be taken down to the untreated aluminum to allow polishing.  Just looking for the best process.  My searches have turned up using Oven Cleaner but generally those threads were for bicycle wheels which have a thinner, softer anodizing.  Every thing I have found says the harder, thicker anodizing on the GL rims does not respond to Oven Cleaner.

[Retro Rocket]

Ring someone that does anodizing and ask them....

[madmtnmotors]

I just dressed up a set of comstars that were all gouged up around the bead from ham-fisted P.O.'s tire changes. Standard aluminum polishing steps work well here, just more of it. Start by sanding, something around 200 grit, then 400, then either 600 grit or steel wool, then to the polishing compounds. It's just more sanding than raw aluminum, but the results are just as nice, just more work.

[wildcatmahone]

I have successfully used Easy-Off oven cleaner to strip the anodizing off a couple GL's and Lester's.....
The stuff in the blue can doesn't contain the active ingredient needed to strip the anodizing, make sure to buy the yellow can.

However, care must be taken as far as how long the wheel is exposed to the oven cleaner. It will actually start eating away at the aluminum itself and you'll be left with some pitting on the surface.

I would recommend leaving the cleaner on the wheel for 5 minute intervals followed by a thorough rinse with water.

Yeah that's correct, the anodizing process bonds a film of oxide onto the aluminum substrate pretty tough stuff...

If you have a buffing setup I would also recommend using the greaseless buffing compounds on a double sewn wheel first. Wet sanding sucks bad.  Use those and you'll have a flexible sanding wheel. Then proceed with the normal buffing rouges: black-brown-white. Caswell Plating has all the stuff you'll need I usually get my order fairly quick hope this helps ya...

-Wildcat

[lone*X]

OK, didn't even know there was two strengths of Easy Off.  Guess I will give this a try this weekend.  I already have a polishing setup with an 8 in. sewn wheel and an 8 in. loose cotton wheel.   Hopefully this will not be as hard as I thought it would be.

[madmtnmotors]

I have successfully used Easy-Off oven cleaner to strip the anodizing off a couple GL's and Lester's.....
The stuff in the blue can doesn't contain the active ingredient needed to strip the anodizing, make sure to buy the yellow can.

However, care must be taken as far as how long the wheel is exposed to the oven cleaner. It will actually start eating away at the aluminum itself and you'll be left with some pitting on the surface.

I would recommend leaving the cleaner on the wheel for 5 minute intervals followed by a thorough rinse with water.

Yeah that's correct, the anodizing process bonds a film of oxide onto the aluminum substrate pretty tough stuff...

If you have a buffing setup I would also recommend using the greaseless buffing compounds on a double sewn wheel first. Wet sanding sucks bad.  Use those and you'll have a flexible sanding wheel. Then proceed with the normal buffing rouges: black-brown-white. Caswell Plating has all the stuff you'll need I usually get my order fairly quick hope this helps ya...

-Wildcat

Duly noted! Thanks for sharing, I will definitely try this approach on the next set (you know there will be another one...) 

[wildcatmahone]

OK, didn't even know there was two strengths of Easy Off.  Guess I will give this a try this weekend.  I already have a polishing setup with an 8 in. sewn wheel and an 8 in. loose cotton wheel.   Hopefully this will not be as hard as I thought it would be.

Yeah man no problem. Though I might add, be sure to use a separate buffing wheel for each different compound. That pic is actually a 19" valanced Boranni wheel but you get the idea. As a final step I usually give a hand buff with some cotton balls and Mother's mag polish. Ultra mirror finish.

[mono]

Ring someone that does anodizing and ask them....

Yes, anodizing can be chemically stripped.  How?  Idk.  But i saw a youtube vid the other day where a guy stripped the color from an anodized part and redid it another color.   It seemed very time consuming and technologically intensive.  I'd just have them re-anodized the way you want them.

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[jonnycakes]

I've used the easy off, it will remove anodizing. Simple Green will too!!!!

[lucky]

The purpose of the anodizing is to make the surface harder.
Increased strength and corrosion resistance.
It actually can be .010 thousandths into the surface.

[mono]

The purpose of the anodizing is to make the surface harder.
Increased strength and corrosion resistance.
It actually can be .010 thousandths into the surface.

- so use 180 grit!  hahahaha

[mrrch]

+1 on the extra strength EZoff (yellow bottle)
I used it on a yellow anodized Yamaha YZ rim last winter, do a little at a time, if you leave it on too long the aluminium will turn black (and it eating away at the aluminium as well)
Use gloves and don't breathe the fumes.