Topic: C-Hook Engine Removal & Rotisserie Engine Stand

[Harsh]

is there a drawing like with exact measurements and angles I work with waterjets

I am at sea right now (Navy thing), but when I get back later in the week I can send you a file.  Unless you get it before then.

[runs_again]

I found myself wrestling with my 750 engine and making no progress.  Went looking for help on SOH4.net and discovered blake255's post.  I didn't have an engine hoist but did have two helpers.  I found a piece of 2x2 (2x4 that had been ripped down but a 2x4 would probably work) and placed it against the back of the engine resting on the the cam chain adjuster. This took the place of the bottom horizontal section of the C-Hook.   We then used the same strap technique Blake used to attach it to the engine.  Now with helpers at each end of the 2x2 they lifted up gently and I guided the back end using a bolt (in one of the rear mounting holes) for a handle.  Came right out without a fight. 

Thanks blake

[thrutheframe]

 
There is a downloadable .pdf of the C-Hook at the bottom of this post.[/b]  If I were to make another one, I would shorten the Throat "C", and lengthen the Lifting Arm "A".  If you decide to alter the dimensions, make sure that the Neck "B" is 1/2 the length of the Lifting Arm "A"....

any specifics on how much to shorten the throat and lengthen the lifting arm?

[blake255]

UPDATE 5/9/12: After a long absence, I have finally gotten .dxf files posted for anyone who would like to make a c-hook.  You can find the link here.  There are three versions, modify them as you see fit.  Again, I am not an engineer and make no claims as to fitness for any purpose. All I ask is that you take pictures and post them so that others may benefit.  It’s great to be back.  Thank you to all who have posted.

Blake

[BIGRUSS58]

Harsh,
     I know I've got the modified file and I'll see if I can find the original (or recreate it) and save them to dxf format and you can choose the one you want. It would be this evening or tomorrow evening, depends on how much want-to I've got left when I get home. 

That would be awesome.  I was looking at the pdf and noticed that the math was off on the top portion.  On the left side it says that it is 5 3/8", but when you add the right side number up (7/8 + 3 1/2 + 7/8) you get 5 1/4".  Not that it truly  matters, I just find it a little funny that no one has mentioned this before.

HI MATE HOW DO I GET A DRAWING OF THIS SO I CAN GET ONE LASER CUT
CHEERS RUSS

[madmtnmotors]

UPDATE 5/9/12: After a long absence, I have finally gotten .dxf files posted for anyone who would like to make a c-hook.  You can find the link here.  There are three versions, modify them as you see fit.  Again, I am not an engineer and make no claims as to fitness for any purpose. All I ask is that you take pictures and post them so that others may benefit.  It’s great to be back.  Thank you to all who have posted.

Blake

Harsh,
     I know I've got the modified file and I'll see if I can find the original (or recreate it) and save them to dxf format and you can choose the one you want. It would be this evening or tomorrow evening, depends on how much want-to I've got left when I get home. 

That would be awesome.  I was looking at the pdf and noticed that the math was off on the top portion.  On the left side it says that it is 5 3/8", but when you add the right side number up (7/8 + 3 1/2 + 7/8) you get 5 1/4".  Not that it truly  matters, I just find it a little funny that no one has mentioned this before.

HI MATE HOW DO I GET A DRAWING OF THIS SO I CAN GET ONE LASER CUT
CHEERS RUSS

Click on the link imbedded in Blake's post of the word "here" (highlighted in red in the quote above or navigate to the originial post) 

[BIGRUSS58]

Thanks to the work of a few folks here I now have a couple of .dxf files.  The original and the modified version Blake posted a picture of on the first page.  Unfortunatley, I can not attach them in the post.  I had a buddy of mine that is an engineer at NASA run a simulation on them to test for safety/strength.  The modified version is much stronger and since it uses less material it is the one I am going to use.

Original

Minimum factor of safety - 4.10
Maximum displacement - 0.00053 m

hi guys im not really up with this filing stuff all i want is a drawing i can download with the dimensions on it so i can make it , any help be great


Modified

Minimum factor of safety - 7.44
Maximum displacement - 0.000065 m

[madmtnmotors]

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwMXZ5vjjZWPcnFHOUxIbnpWWmM

[Harsh]

Well I have been having trouble getting the design cut out.  My buddy that has a computer controlled plasma cutter has just been too busy.  I was talking with a new guy at work and somehow the topic came up.  He asked about it and said that he does some blacksmithing at home and could make it for me.

He made it out of a drive shaft and even painted it for me.

[MikeKato]

Harsh

Have you put that one to the test yet,or if not,you have plans to anytime soon? That 3/4" stock?

Thnx!
mike

[Harsh]

No I haven't used it.  I was going to when I installed my engine, but my neighbor that  has an engine lift I was going to borrow was out of town on business.  Impatient I just dropped the frame over the engine.  I think it is thicker than 3/4".  When I go outside today I will get a measurement.

[madmtnmotors]

I ultimately chopped up some scrap tube steel I had laying around the shop and welded up my own:



I can start with a fully assembled, running bike, and have the motor out and on an engine stand in ninety minutes, by myself. The hardest part is assembling the engine hoist.

[MikeKato]

Harsh:  Thanks!

 madmtnmotors:
" The only modification I intend to do is to add a hook loop to the top tube and eliminate the leveler portion since the pick point is centered I don't use the leveler at all and it tends to brush the handlebars anyway."

I'm not a very smart man. So after reading your planned modification and looking at your pics again I think I might have realized that I have been mistaken on how it works. The threaded rod was just to balance the engine and not used to crank it into the frame? It looks like you still have to push the hoist & motor into the frame;correct?

I think you're going to answer yes so I'll ask another question right away. If a guy made another insert for that engine hoist with a piece of bar stock welded on each side,that you could also weld to each side of that collar (eliminating the hook and chain) do you think it would be stable,balanced, enough to use the threaded rod to hand crank the engine into the frame?   

P.S. Some day I'll learn how to insert partial quotes on this board. I'll learn how to upload pics and drawings so thoughts aren't left to the imagination of the reader. In the last week I've figured out how to buy something on ebay,set-up a paypal account and online banking so there is hope that some day I'll be able to catch up to the technology available.

Thnx!
Mike

[madmtnmotors]

  The threaded rod was just to balance the engine and not used to crank it into the frame? It looks like you still have to push the hoist & motor into the frame;correct?

That is correct on both counts. The upper portion is a "load leveler" attachment for the hoist that is more commonly used with automotive engines. The hoist does have to be rolled back to remove the engine and rolled forward as the engine is put back in the frame. The threaded rod assembly would actually tilt the engine, which I thought might be useful but turns out a level lift is perfect without having to use the tilt attachment. I inch the hoist forward (and back during removal) just a little at a time. There is very minimal fuss either way.

    If a guy made another insert for that engine hoist with a piece of bar stock welded on each side,that you could also weld to each side of that collar (eliminating the hook and chain) do you think it would be stable,balanced, enough to use the threaded rod to hand crank the engine into the frame?

Not sure, can't picture it from the description. Almost sounds like you could be describing something that could almost be used standalone without the need of a hoist? (By adding some legs)


   

P.S. Some day I'll learn how to insert partial quotes on this board. I'll learn how to upload pics and drawings so thoughts aren't left to the imagination of the reader. In the last week I've figured out how to buy something on ebay,set-up a paypal account and online banking so there is hope that some day I'll be able to catch up to the technology available.

Thnx!
Mike

Progress!

[chewbacca5000]

I know this thread has not be updated in sometime, but am in the process of getting the C-Hook cut out and what I found was that it would be around $100 total materials and labor.  That 1/2" plate is expensive.

I am wondering if the 1/2" plate version is that much better than the square tubing?

[madmtnmotors]

I am wondering if the 1/2" plate version is that much better than the square tubing?

The square tubing that I used was scrap that I had laying around. 45 minutes later I was just waiting for the rattle can flat black finish to dry. The paint cost more than the tubing...

[RandyBMC]

Is that tubing that was scrap 2" square madmtnmotors?  I have a leveler as well, so that looks like a winner from a cost standpoint to me.  I just don't have any scrap laying around, so I have to run down to Home Depot and get some.  Wondering if I have to go full 2"or if 1"/1.5" would suffice.

Thanks - great thread!

[madmtnmotors]

Is that tubing that was scrap 2" square madmtnmotors?  I have a leveler as well, so that looks like a winner from a cost standpoint to me.  I just don't have any scrap laying around, so I have to run down to Home Depot and get some.  Wondering if I have to go full 2"or if 1"/1.5" would suffice.

Thanks - great thread!

Actually, the load leveler is overkill. I removed the load leveler, replaced it with a bent piece of 3/8" rod, and haven't looked back:



I used 2" square tubing since that's what I had laying around. If I had 1-1/2" tubing laying around I probably would have used that. I've been threatening to do a dimensioned drawing of this, let me know if you have any trouble figuring out what will work dimensionally.


Here it is in action:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,100352.msg1675840.html#msg1675840

[RandyBMC]

Yeah, would you mind just quickly giving me the lengths of the three bars and how far from the end you mounted the hook on the top bar?

I have 1" tubing laying around, so I may try that with some strengthening gussets.

Thanks!

[madmtnmotors]

As promised:




The attached pdf should provide a sharper image.

The 3/8" plate is just a lip to keep the strap from falling off. 3/8" is overkill, but it's what I had laying around at the time. I adjust the straps to put the lifting bar even with the intake ports on the head. The intake ports are covered with vinyl caps to keep out debris, which also protects them from dings by the lifting bar. The straps I use are simple 1" nylon #300 straps with loops on each end formed by tying them in a knot. The strap around the bottom of the engine is placed behind the first crank main tower bolts on each side to prevent the strap from slipping off the engine. 

The "tail" on the top, that extends beyond the vertical piece is left over from the initial design that used the load leveler. This extension is probably not necessary, and could likely be cut flush (or nearly so) with the back of the vertical tube.




Careful.... careful....

[RandyBMC]

Damn!  Thanks man - I'm building right now (iPad on the workbench).

[jukku]

One simple C-hook and two hands!

[chewbacca5000]

How long did it take to pull?

[RandyBMC]

Built mine using 1" square tubing - plenty strong.  Took me about 20 minutes to pull the engine, but everything was already taken off.  I used the measurements above from madmtnmotors and a hook.

Is there a way to host photos?  I'd be happy to share my creation.

[madmtnmotors]

Is there a way to host photos?  I'd be happy to share my creation.

We definitely need pictures! Go to the "preview" of your reply and you will have the option to "attach" photos at the bottom, or you can use the "insert image" options at the top to insert a link to online photos (photobucket, google, etc).