Topic: Yolanda 2.0 new pretty carbs

[cheftuskey121]

inside speedo. the two brackets I found cover the instrument bulbs so to dissipate the light around the gauge. going to try and solder them back on because they broke at the hinge in there. maybe some jb weld.

Both of mine were broken as well and I tried soldering but it was a pain so I oped for JB Weld and that was a way better choice. Just tape the pieces in place until weld has set. Not pretty but it's sturdy:

Hey thanks for the reply jay ace. I ended up using jb weld and its all good now! Soldering wouldn't take to either the bracket or the housing. Jb weld is the way to go!

[cheftuskey121]

wow, it's been too long. this has been a heavily budget funded project, and I'm not trying to do things on the cheap, so I had to save up some money too get the ball rolling again. its been stripped to bare frame for awhile and today I got to painting. the other day I got all of my black parts organized, soda blasted, and ready for paint. I am using Eastwood products, their pre paint prep, rust encapsulator, and extreme chassis black. so far everything is wonderful. I build electric guitars on the side, so painting is nothing new to me, and I actually feel like I know what I am doing here.

taking the front brake caliper off of the mounting plate




pad was stuck and after reading here I popped it out with a compressor. that sucker is dangerous. I did a few short bursts and nothing happened but then I held it for a bit and let the pressure build up and POP. thankfully I read to do it into a towel facing the ground.



nasty, all cleaned now though, and I have my new pads ready to go



can't forget about this seat latch!



here are all the items primed with the rust encapsulator. the only the missing is the centerstand, I got one here and its on the way, I'm making sure to save enough paint for that too. I opted out of the gauges because they dont really need new black paint. now is the time to point out all of the things I missed (not counting hand controls) to be painted black





here is after the extreme chassis black. I like the sheen, this is the satin version. I think the gloss would be just too much, at least for me, on this particular rebuild. its supposed to be very durable, gas and brake fluid resistant, and UV protective. we'll see





I have the other 5-10% of the frame to do tomorrow because I ran out of daylight and couldnt get the frame flipped over to do it right side up. I also have new chrome DID 19" front and 18" rear rims on the way to me and spokes, I have new front and rear wheel bearings, as well as the tapered neck bearings. after a formidable amount of research I bought Continental RB-2 and K112 because I want that vintage look and feel with modern rubber. I also bought my tubes and rimstrips. I still have yet to tackle taking the wheels apart so I will try to figure that out. any advice on tools needed? I've been reading about bearing pullers and such. I dont even know where to start with the wheels though. trial and error time

[Garystratos201]

Its comeing along nicely now. I know what you mean about a budget build.lol I struggle with the same problem.............Gary

[jerry h]

Hi Chef,
Nice restoration thread!  The fun really begins when you can start putting stuff back on the clean frame.

[iron_worker]

Keep it up man. You're making great progress.

IW

[cheftuskey121]

thanks guys. it feels like such an uphill battle. the frame is finished being painted, so its curing now. I just received my center stand, and that just got primed so in a little bit I will paint that too. I finally figured out how to take the front wheel apart. pg. 132 is missing from the PDF shop manual, it is disassembly of the front tire. go figure. searching here was fruitless too. realized you put a screw drive on through the holes on one side of the axle and then loosen the nut on the other side. then take off the speedo drive

next snag were the 6 bolts holding the rotor on. I could envision what needed to happen but I've never done or seen this before. I finally figured out to bend the tabs on the "tongued" washers so I could take the nuts off....sure in retrospect its  "duh" moment but I was seriously stumped there for a bit. I'm so afraid of breaking things. my new rear rim arrived today, and my fork seals. I want to to finish the front rim though first, then move to the rear. any recommendations to a new rotor? I've read EBC are supposed to be great as an upgrade but I read the caliper needs to be slightly modded for it to fit? the original rotor seems fine. is there any merit to drilling just a few holes instead of the many I see done on others? pics coming later!

[edhaeuser]

Chef,  where did you order the rims from?  They are one of my "wish list" items :-)

Good progress, by the way.  Keep it up!

[KennyRedman]

Looking great! I wish the weather up here in Indiana would allow for some outdoor painting right about now. The temperature is averaging in the teens.

How do you like the paint? Does it seem pretty durable to you?

[cheftuskey121]

Ed I got mine on eBay and apparently I should have shopped better because it appears I may have overpaid. Oh well what's done is done.

I'm not sure on the overall quality of the paint. In a few days ill drop some gas and brake fluid on it and do some light scratch tests. Ill report back with info! I love the way it looks though. Just enough gloss. Very clean looking.

[Dream750]

Any recommendations to a new rotor?

Perhaps restoring your original brake rotor is a option for you?

I sent my OEM 750 K2 rotor out for a surface grind (no drilling) and it came back looking and working just like new.
 
Here’s the link and the ebay seller is also forum member: Speedracer741
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CB500-CB550-CB650-CB750-BRAKE-DISC-ROTOR-SERVICE-/300736155448?pt=Automotive_Services&hash=item4605458f38

[70CB750]

Dang!  Those rotors look sweet.

[cheftuskey121]

Thanks dream750 that's the thing I was looking for!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Looks like a great quality service.  I would also recommend Anubis Cycle (Thomas Neubauer aka El Cheapo) on the form services offered section.  He charges forum members $40 to drill their discs and does a mild grind resurface that cleans up any grooves. 

[Dream750]

Thanks dream750 that's the thing I was looking for!

Chef, You're Welcome.

[cheftuskey121]

ok time for a catch up update. I have taken the front wheel assembly apart. it took me far too long to understand how to take off the tongued washers. oh well. learning experience.











finally got to those and moved onto the bearing retainer ring. I drilled out two punch marks. then I found someone on this forum who made a makeshift tool to remove the retainer. genius. am I supposed to put new punch marks in? I bought new front and rear retaining rings.





so I'm not entirely sure if I did this in the right order, but removing the the first bearing was such a pain. there just was not much room to move the spacer over to get my long screwdriver in there. I eventually was able to get it to bite in and slowly pop it out. looking at the spacer I really bent some of the tabs on one side. hope they go back easily.



once the bearing and spacer were out getting the other bearing out was easy. making note of that rubber ring



next came me cutting (ie mangling) the tire and tube



rims arrived, mmmmmmmm



sitting all nasty



took forever until I realized I could expedite the process by unscrew the top of the nipples with a flat tip....doh



just the hub and spokes. gross



late night soda blasting session with a headlamp led to this













Sending off my rotor today to speedracer to have it resurfaced and drilled. I also put a new seal in the caliper and bought a SS piston. not sure if its supposed to be like this but its so tight that I cant even press the piton in with my hands....so how is it supposed to actuate if I can't even get it to go in first?



actually knew how to get the tongued washers off this time!





getting replaced



the brake hub would not come off. as this is new to me I don't know if its supposed to come off easily or not, but I couldn't see anything holding it in. so I started gently prying up and around with a screwdriver. boom, made it pop out. and its gross in there. going to get another 50lb bag of soda to do some more blasting today.







the shoes are getting replaced for sure, I'm not sure what else needs replacing but I'll be researching it. in the mean time my VHT nu cast aluminum engine paint came in, I checked a little piece on my il filter cover. love the look. great grey color with a little sparkle

unpainted side



painted side




so thats it for now, just waiting for more money. I have SS brake cables on the way and new banjo bolts. I need to buy a MC rebuild kit and take care of that. no clue how. learning learning. once I get my rotor back though I should be ble to rebuild the front wheel. my continental tires came in. how should I go about getting them back together? lace up the rim snug and let the shop but the tires on and true them? I don't think I have the patience or trust myself to do it right.

[edhaeuser]

Great progress and write up.  Are you going to paint or polish your hubs?  I've been thinking I might just paint mine with duplicolor silver or get some silver/aluminum powder.

Ed

[cheftuskey121]

Ed, I just shot the front hub with the VHT, going to bake it in a few hours and we'll see

[Garystratos201]

Nice work chef !! I`m taking a break from mine for a little while. I got real discouraged trying to put my air box tubes on my carbs. I gave up and ordered new ones...........Gary

[cheftuskey121]

Nice work chef !! I`m taking a break from mine for a little while. I got real discouraged trying to put my air box tubes on my carbs. I gave up and ordered new ones...........Gary

I understand. I bought new ones before even trying the old ones and the NEW ones fought me for an hour before they sat right. I am about to take a mandatory break from it because I have no more money. I need to buy a little circlip pliers so I can take out the circlip holding my fork seals in and someone suggested a tool to remove fork seals....then I gotta get fork oil. it never ends. I also need another 50lb of soda to start cleaning the rear hub and the engine, and I need new brake shoes....and this...and this...and that. so I am going to step back for a week or so and just do little "free" thing here and there. I am enjoying everyone's builds though! thanks for reading

[Kevin D]

fork oil

Many use ATF

You might find some used turn signal brackets here, but you have to call for the used parts, 317-634-7550:

http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/

[iron_worker]

That VHT aluminum looks like it's going to be real nice. Hopefully my duplicolor turns out as well. I'll be painting my engine soon too.

I'm jealous of you having your own soda blaster. I probably could have paid for a setup with what I've paid in blasting fees on this one project alone already...mind you air compressors in a condo building is probably a bad idea. ha

I think painting the hubs is the way to go. At least with the engine covers if you choose to polish them you have access to get in there and try to re-polish as they oxidize. With the hubs there really is no access once it's all put together. For me it's paint all the way! A low maintenance machine ... I hope. ha

IW

[cheftuskey121]

fork oil

Many use ATF

You might find some used turn signal brackets here, but you have to call for the used parts, 317-634-7550:

http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/

thanks Kevin, I already have the brackets though.

iron, I definitely agree with you on the paint. it almost makes me just want to paint the engine the whole engine and nothing but the engine, but I also like that little bi of factory shine to make it pop. plus my new rims would look WAY out of place.

I forgot to mention I painted the swingarm and got my new bronze bushings in. had to freeze them and grease them and use a propane torch on the inside of the swingarm tube (didnt want to heat the new paint directly) they went in with some even hammering with a handheld bearing press tool. worked wonder and then I set the depth by using a 3/4" socket (perfect size of the bushing). the collar was a tight fit but its in there now, and I took off, cleaned, and put the zerks back on making sure they were letting grease flow properly. If I do another bike its going to hondaman for sure. I just really wanted to do it myself to learn on this one. I don't have any pictures but I bought the rear swingarm rubber bushings and the top shock eyelet bushings because I don't want any 40 year rubber.

[cheftuskey121]

That VHT aluminum looks like it's going to be real nice. Hopefully my duplicolor turns out as well. I'll be painting my engine soon too.

I'm jealous of you having your own soda blaster. I probably could have paid for a setup with what I've paid in blasting fees on this one project alone already...mind you air compressors in a condo building is probably a bad idea. ha

I think painting the hubs is the way to go. At least with the engine covers if you choose to polish them you have access to get in there and try to re-polish as they oxidize. With the hubs there really is no access once it's all put together. For me it's paint all the way! A low maintenance machine ... I hope. ha

IW

iron, the blaster has been a godsend. its not perfect because the compressor is almost 30 years old, and the inline water filter is terrible, so i get mist. but it does not clump too badly, and it gets the job done. its not instant high quality stuff if I had a new compressor with new filter and a basting cabinet...but I'm not complaining. it still hurts if you hit your arm so I wear long green rubber gloves. I do it out back by the fence so not much soda goes over the fence on the car. even with respirator it is everywhere. pockets, eyebrows, hair, socks, shoes, crotch, ears. I recommend a full mask...I need to get one. sometimes it gets in my eyes and burns but I'm too stubborn to stop. thankfully it IS just soda. magic stuff, it made my pipes look almost new. I would think it to be impossible to work in your situation :/

I'm keeping a watchful eye and am very jealous of all the plating. I am more thn making up for the benefits of blasting with the cost of new screws etc

[edhaeuser]

I understand. I bought new ones before even trying the old ones and the NEW ones fought me for an hour before they sat right. I am about to take a mandatory break from it because I have no more money. I need to buy a little circlip pliers so I can take out the circlip holding my fork seals in and someone suggested a tool to remove fork seals....then I gotta get fork oil. it never ends. I also need another 50lb of soda to start cleaning the rear hub and the engine, and I need new brake shoes....and this...and this...and that. so I am going to step back for a week or so and just do little "free" thing here and there. I am enjoying everyone's builds though! thanks for reading
[/quote]

A small tipped needle nose pliers will work on the fork seal circlip in a pinch. (if i'm thinking of the clip that your are referring to...the one on the top of the lower fork unit)  Just stick the ends of the pliers in the little holes and squeeze.

[iron_worker]

For pulling out the fork seal snap ring a pick with a hooked end worked really well for me. Just hook it in the one side and pull.

 I got a cheap set of snap ring pliers for xmas. I think they are like $15-$20 for a set of 3 at Princess Auto. (similar to your Harbor Freight) Might be worth it to pick up a set.

IW