Topic: 1972 CB750 Four K2 -- Rebuilt to NEW OLD STOCK -- PIX ON PAGE 50

[HondaMan]

Correct gears arrived last night, isn't Bill the best 

Started putting them together and I notice that after the circlips are installed in place, the C2 rotates freely and has some side to side play (very small) while the C3 sits sung with no play and doesn't spin as freely with the circlip in place (spins freely without it, so I know its not the shaft, I smoothed the tapers on that). Is this normal?

If by chance you have some mics...just check the thickness of the new gear against the old one. It may well be you'll find it about .002" thicker, which was a wear-in Parkerizing coat that was intended to polish itself with the mating part(s) when all were new.

[edwardmorris]

Correct gears arrived last night, isn't Bill the best 

Started putting them together and I notice that after the circlips are installed in place, the C2 rotates freely and has some side to side play (very small) while the C3 sits sung with no play and doesn't spin as freely with the circlip in place (spins freely without it, so I know its not the shaft, I smoothed the tapers on that). Is this normal?

If by chance you have some mics...just check the thickness of the new gear against the old one. It may well be you'll find it about .002" thicker, which was a wear-in Parkerizing coat that was intended to polish itself with the mating part(s) when all were new.

Thanks, don't have mic, but will try with the vernier tonight. Maybe I need better spacers/circlips?

[edwardmorris]

So I tried them both on, old and new there is absolutely no difference. I even switched out the spacers and circlips to see if it made a difference, but nope, they both have that tiny little bit of side to side play. Maybe I'm overthinking this? It doesn't seem to be THAT much and the dog engagement looks pretty good, especially on the new ones.

I tried the newer C4, C1s and the old ones I have, really not seeing or feeling any difference with induced shifting/engagement tests, so the newer ones will be going back to Bill. The C2, C5 on the other hand, difference is night and day. Old ones are definite candidates for back cutting. For now, calling this done, last big thing is to get that bearing installed into the crankcase, then trans will be done.

Scrambling to get everything for the engine ready, just in case Cal actually makes his round trip 

[oldhatt45]

Ed,

I read the "How do you polish stuff" thread and saw your post and the polishing results.
Looks really good!!!!!
I also noticed your Clutch and Brake levers.
If you haven't done anything yet, take a look at these Rubber end caps. 
I bought a pair and they are perfect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361187108093?item=361187108093&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
And really cheap too. 

Charlie

[edwardmorris]

Ed,

I read the "How do you polish stuff" thread and saw your post and the polishing results.
Looks really good!!!!!
I also noticed your Clutch and Brake levers.
If you haven't done anything yet, take a look at these Rubber end caps. 
I bought a pair and they are perfect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361187108093?item=361187108093&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
And really cheap too. 

Charlie

Thanks for the kind words on the polishing.

I can't remember, was it you that asked about it and I posted that same link in a thread somewhere? Anyhu, I don't like those, so yet another restoration sin, I'm skipping those 

[edwardmorris]

Carbies are getting all new brass, needles were here, rest of the brass is en-route.

Made a wood dowel to press/tap the old ones out. Cleaned with acetone on q-tip, then pressed new ones in. Slightly concerned with the new ones as #1 and #4 seem to be a bit loose and are pressing out just by a finger push. Pausing further assembly until I'm certain that its all good

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=145747

[DH]

Ed, the 750 carbs emulsion tubes thread into the carb body until they bottom out against the needle jet, so they will hold a slightly loose jet in place., Also, the needle jet limits how far the emulsion tube can be threaded into the carb body. Once the emulsion tube is fully seated against the needle jet, it will still look as if it needs to go in farther, like there's extra thread left exposed.
This is normal, and when you've reached that point, SNUG the tube and call it good. DO NOT try to thread the tubes in any farther, or you will damage (bend) the emulsion tubes.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

+1, and crack or break the carb body!  Ouch! Bill

[edwardmorris]

Thanks DH, big duhh moment for me, Bill and I had the conversation going in the background and he reminded me of the emulsions too. They're pretty snug without wobble so I'm good, just waiting on rest of the brass to arrive to finish these up. Did get a little further and installed the choke slides and linkage parts on each of them.

[Davez134]

Deja-vu to a few weeks ago. Hate these carbs haha

[edwardmorris]

The brass, rubber and aluminum is all here. Was just about to get it back together, then got stuck here

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,145870.0.html

[Davez134]

The brass, rubber and aluminum is all here. Was just about to get it back together, then got stuck here

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,145870.0.html

So shiny! replied to thread in your link.

[edwardmorris]

Thanks Dave, carbs are on hold again, forgot I need the float height tool before I can put them on the back plate anyway. Silicone grease is used to preserve that rubber grommet, and mineral oil is recommended for the slides, so will be doing that as soon as the tool arrives. Hadn't had much time for anything as the wife isn't feeling too well and work hours just went insane. Hopefully some progress soon, wish I had someone nearby to help button the motor back together. After that I KNOW I'll get it done 10x faster.

[MCRider]

Thanks Dave, carbs are on hold again, forgot I need the float height tool before I can put them on the back plate anyway. Silicone grease is used to preserve that rubber grommet, and mineral oil is recommended for the slides, so will be doing that as soon as the tool arrives. Hadn't had much time for anything as the wife isn't feeling too well and work hours just went insane. Hopefully some progress soon, wish I had someone nearby to help button the motor back together. After that I KNOW I'll get it done 10x faster.

Engines are like Thanksgiving. 3 weeks of prep to 3 hours of feast.  Engines may be worse.

The rep multiple is way more than the assembly. When the time comes, get hold of me, or someone else to talk you through it.

[edwardmorris]

Thanks Dave, carbs are on hold again, forgot I need the float height tool before I can put them on the back plate anyway. Silicone grease is used to preserve that rubber grommet, and mineral oil is recommended for the slides, so will be doing that as soon as the tool arrives. Hadn't had much time for anything as the wife isn't feeling too well and work hours just went insane. Hopefully some progress soon, wish I had someone nearby to help button the motor back together. After that I KNOW I'll get it done 10x faster.

Engines are like Thanksgiving. 3 weeks of prep to 3 hours of feast.  Engines may be worse.

The rep multiple is way more than the assembly. When the time comes, get hold of me, or someone else to talk you through it.

HA! I know the feeling, because I spend those 3 weeks trying to keep the missus calm and assuring her that everything will be just perfect 

I have it all ready, trans is assembled, have all new chains, clutch, rollers, o-rings, bearings, sealers, hondabond etc. ready. Just need to take a day or two off and get to it. Thanks for the offer Ron, I might just take you up on that.

[edwardmorris]

All new brass and rubber went on the carbs today. Hated touching those polished crowns and bowls but oh well, they aint gonna stay pretty forever. Float height set to 26mm, everything just hand snug, needles on the middle notch, silicone lube on the throttle rods and Singer mineral machine oil on the slides. Clear/Blue zinc is holding up nicely but gets messy too easily.

[edwardmorris]

Fork lifters got brand new boots.

THEN, the one step back. I had the damned lifter forks installed backwards 

Funny thing is, no one noticed it because I put the back plate together a while back

[edwardmorris]

Nevermind the above, it was 2:00 AM after a crazy double shifter. Forks are installed correct, I did however botch the position of the choke slide lever on #3 and #4 (Pic 1). Managed to correct that without taking it apart at all. Finished!

Gotta say, after the work that's involved in syncing the throttle and choke slides, people offering rebuild service for these are wayyy too generous.

[danyo]

Looks gorgeous Rafi !!! Did you rechromed those fork lifters??

[tweakin]

Excellent work Rafi!

[Kickstart]

Wow.... those carbs looks nice!

Very impressed.

I love this thread.

[edwardmorris]

Thank you fellas, you're all very kind.

@Danyo no, lifters were used as is, took the best two I had of the three sets of carb racks I have. Saved a second good set for the K3.


For those just catching up, they were ultrasonically cleaned,

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,126735.msg1542350.html#msg1542350

every last bit of hardware was replated with zinc and chromated clear/blue,

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,126735.msg1598663.html#msg1598663

crowns and bowls were polished to chrome like finish.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,126735.msg1601319.html#msg1601319

[evanphi]

Dang that's some shine!

[edwardmorris]

Installed the last of the SKFs for this build. Oil pump and starter motor are the only excuses I have left to dally engine assembly. Can't seem to shake off this nervousness 

[Davez134]

Installed the last of the SKFs for this build. Oil pump and starter motor are the only excuses I have left to dally engine assembly. Can't seem to shake off this nervousness 

Uh, starter motor is no excuse, get to work! what's the worst that can happen, a small leak??