Topic: 1972 CB750 Four K2 -- Rebuilt to NEW OLD STOCK -- PIX ON PAGE 50

[edwardmorris]

Those rotors look great!  How did you manage to do that.  Is this a DIY type job?

Which rotors are you referring to Chewy? The front brake disc, I had that Blanchard ground per Mr. Benton's suggestion. The oil pump rotors, I just washed them in my simple green parts washer followed by mineral spirits bath. Just cleaned them, I'll be leaving those alone per Mark/Hondaman's suggestion.

[chewbacca5000]

Those rotors look great!  How did you manage to do that.  Is this a DIY type job?

Which rotors are you referring to Chewy? The front brake disc, I had that Blanchard ground per Mr. Benton's suggestion. The oil pump rotors, I just washed them in my simple green parts washer followed by mineral spirits bath. Just cleaned them, I'll be leaving those alone per Mark/Hondaman's suggestion.

Yes the front brake disc.  Who is Blanchard?  Thank You.

[edwardmorris]

Those rotors look great!  How did you manage to do that.  Is this a DIY type job?

Which rotors are you referring to Chewy? The front brake disc, I had that Blanchard ground per Mr. Benton's suggestion. The oil pump rotors, I just washed them in my simple green parts washer followed by mineral spirits bath. Just cleaned them, I'll be leaving those alone per Mark/Hondaman's suggestion.

Yes the front brake disc.  Who is Blanchard?  Thank You.

Not a who, its a what  Its a type of a grinding machine, rare, at least in my area. The shop that helped me widen the grooves on my SKF replacement bearings just happened to have one, so I drove out to Lowell IN and got it done there. Wasn't too expensive either.

[Godffery]

I also provide that Rotor service, if you cant find a local place that will accept small special orders without charging a small fortune.
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Parts+and+service/

[chewbacca5000]

I also provide that Rotor service, if you cant find a local place that will accept small special orders without charging a small fortune.
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Parts+and+service/

Wow that is great work!  PM Sent.

[Tews19]

Big fan of Godffreys work. I have used several of his rotors on a few bikes. If anyone wants lighted and drilled rotors look no further then to him.

[edwardmorris]

I also provide that Rotor service, if you cant find a local place that will accept small special orders without charging a small fortune.
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Parts+and+service/

Hey Godffrey, I thought you didn't have a Blanchard grinder? If you do now, its great news!

[Godffery]

I don't "Have" one; I have a guy With one, that will take small jobs as long as I do them in batches of at least 24 and there are no fancy setups.

[edwardmorris]

I don't "Have" one; I have a guy With one, that will take small jobs as long as I do them in batches of at least 24 and there are no fancy setups.

Ah I see. There is some fancy set up needed though, but its a one time thing. The guys at Midwest Accurate Grinding explained that the disc (or any part) is held true via strong magnets at the center, and the 750 rotors have aluminum/alloy centers that aren't magnetic. They had to rig something up to make it work and your guy might need to do that too. I didn't lose a kidney even with the special set up, they're excited about my build , thankfully a trend I've noticed with every shop I've been to.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I don't "Have" one; I have a guy With one, that will take small jobs as long as I do them in batches of at least 24 and there are no fancy setups.

Ah I see. There is some fancy set up needed though, but its a one time thing. The guys at Midwest Accurate Grinding explained that the disc (or any part) is held true via strong magnets at the center, and the 750 rotors have aluminum/alloy centers that aren't magnetic. They had to rig something up to make it work and your guy might need to do that too. I didn't lose a kidney even with the special set up, they're excited about my build , thankfully a trend I've noticed with every shop I've been to.

FYI -- I JUST received my drilled and thinned (Blanchard ground) brake rotors from Godffrey.  They look way better then factory new and lighter!!

[edwardmorris]

Its been a while since I posted an update, but I've been doing away bits and pieces here and there as and when I find time between work shifts. Last weekend was a bust because of the pesky check engine light on my car, but thankfully it was sorted out quickly. I'm looking forward to the long weekend coming up and hoping to get the paint started on the frame and swingarm. Its going to be a rattle can job as I've seen people to good work with it, and its easy on the budget and touch ups.

Planning on using Rustoleum Self etching primer and Rustoleum Gloss Black Enamel for the frame and swingarm. Rustoleum also has an Acrylic Gloss Black and I don't know what the difference is. Any suggestions before I dive into this? My plan is to,

Fully strip down to bare metal with Aircraft remover and wire wheel cups and brushes.
Treat rust spots with Eastwood's rust remover gel
Clean with water hose, then Eastwood's Pre treatment
Applying the self etch primer and letting it dry for 24h
Apply one paint coat and let it dry for 24h
Apply another if necessary.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Like all but one coat, wait 24h. I like one thin coat, 2nd coat a little thicker, 3rd coat the thickest, all within 45 minutes, then dry for 24+, just my rattle can way. Good luck, sent you some pics, 657A carb, sprocket guard and horn, Bill

[Kickstart]

+1 what Bill said


I'm thinking about doing a similar step with a CL77 I started restoring - even though I haven't finished my current cb750 project

The only thing is I'm debating the need to strip the paint.  I was thinking about wire-wheeling the rusted spots, using the eastwood rust converter spray, and giving everything else a good cleaning/sanding before priming. 

I'm not sure if stripping is really necessary - especially because it's never as easy or clean as you think it will be using chemical strippers.  Messy nasty stuff.... except for Peel Away, but even Peel Away requires some mechanical removal.

Just some randoms thoughts 

[edwardmorris]

@Bill, thanks for the tips, will do it that way. PM sent about the rest

@Chris, Rustoleum Aircraft remover is your friend , messy stinky junk but it could not be easier. I didn't even use power tools today, simply slathered on the remover let it sit for five and paint just fell off with just a nudge using a wire brush. Then took a parts washing brush and removed the left over aircraft remover with mineral spirits, then pressure washed with garden hose.

[edwardmorris]

There was more rust than I had thought initially, but at least the internal frame coating is holding up solid. Disappointed in Eastwood's gel dissolver thought, its hardly a gel and kept running off, so I had to really heavily slather it on to keep the rusty spots soaked. Worst of it is up at the neck, so I dumped a whole bunch in every cranny I saw open. Leaving this overnight, will prime tomorrow.

Was gonna do the swingarm today too, but I couldn't for the life of me get those pesky bushings off (small ones). Two socket trick failed, bolt with socket trick failed, time to search what other way will work.

[calj737]

For the lower shock bushings, they do prefer to be removed to the inside as they have a slight taper to them. Try adding some heat to the swing arm housing, then 2 socket them inward.

[70CB750]

Making nice progress!

[edwardmorris]

@calj, I have been trying to pull them out inwards, but haven't yet tried the heat. So far, everytime I apply pressure, I end up with a stripped bolt 

@prokop, thanks! the frame paint approach was due to inspiration from the K3F

[Kickstart]

See if you can get a larger diameter bolt through the sockets (might have to use 1/2" drive sockets if you're not already)... and/or see if you can get the bolts/nuts in a stronger grade.

[edwardmorris]

Thanks Chris, will make another trip to the hardware store and pick up some stronger ones, hopefully everything will be set for the swingarm by next Sunday.

Prep work is a b$itch, this is the first time in the entire project that i felt overwhelmed not having any help. After about 6hr of wire wheeling the damned thing, my hands were starting to swell so I quit. Woke up this morning rested, took some ibuprofen and got back to it. The bastard likes to flash rust like crazy so had to be fast, almost started over everything I had already done. Few hours later, I hung it up and primed it, made it just it time as it started raining within an hour of finishing up with the primer. Borrowed some extra lighting for tomorrow when I start with the paint. WIll probably have to wet sand with fine grit first, seems grainy and there is just one spot up at the neck where there is a small run off. Thoughts/Suggestions?

[calj737]

Don't wet sand beyond 400 if you're painting over it. Too smooth and it won't bond as effectively. You can always wet sand the final clear coat to smooth out surface imperfections. But you want the primer right before paint, just not so smooth there's no tooth for the paint.

[edwardmorris]

Shux, most coarse grit I have is 500, guess I'll be heading out to menards again. Thanks for the tip calj, I'm only going to level out the one run off spot, its looking much smoother as its drying up. I realized I had all the foot pegs, engine mounts, the brake light switch bracket and the ingnition switch bracket all stripped down from a while ago, so I primed them up too.

For the triple tree/fork bridge and the dash panel, it looks like Honda used a flat black, and I'm having doubts about using the Rustoleum Gloss on them. I had a separate thread where I asked about colors that were close to factory and consensus was Gloss for the frame, swingarm, battery box, tool tray and electrical panel, and Semi Gloss for the gauge cases, triple trees and dash.

Rostoleum does have a flat black color, but I don't know if that will be more close to stock. Thoughts?

[edwardmorris]

Well, some good news and bad news. Went to the hardware store, $4.50 for high tensile bolts and nuts, $6 for the machine shop to press the bushings out, guess which way I went Picked up 2' threaded rod, nuts, fender washers and flat rubber washers. Followed hondaman's instructions and swingarm was ready to be stripped and rust treated. Hopefully I'll be able to prime it today.

On the bad news front, the primed frame was a nasty little dust magnet, but the "grainy" texture went away on its own so I kept the sanding down to only the one spot where there was some run off. Wiped it down completely with tack cloth and gave painting a try. What a terrible way to do this, the damned can just kept spitting paint instead of spraying switched between three different ones and they kept doing the same, ended up just praying and spraying from a safe distance but a crapshoot of spit paint drops are all over, glaringly visible  Will let it dry and see how it looks, if its worth sanding and trying another top coat, might do that, otherwise, just give up and get back to work, and in time get it poweder coated. Pix in the next few hours.

[edwardmorris]

So, this is what failure looks like? Salvage or abandon?

Swingarm primed.

[calj737]

I hate to say it, but given the extent of diligence you've invested, this needs to be redone. You'll forever kick yourself if it's not right.