Topic: Danielle CB550K Build - Toyon Moto Club #5

[Blackfin5]

Shift drum forks.  My '78 550 shift drum is hardly touched upon in the manuals other than a small diagram with no assembly info.  On 1976 and earlier 500/550s, there was only one shift drum shaft and all 3 forks were on the same shaft.  For 77s and 78s, the 2 outside forks are on a separate shaft (#5). 

The larger center fork has a pin and clip instead fixed posts.  On disassembly (I think the cases have never been opened up before, but not 100%), my photos show that center fork was installed with the pin and clip being on the neutral switch side of the drum shaft.  However, the manuals show the pin and clip orientated so as to be on the shift mechanism/cam plate side of the drum shaft.  Randon photos on the net show it my way.  I'm pretty sure I have it right and the manuals are wrong, but it would be nice to have verification.

From the CMS diagram, it is ambiguous, because it looks like the pin (#4) is on the right side (neutral switch side) of the shift drum (#2); but the clip (#6) looks like it is on the left sife of the shift drum fork. 

[bwaller]

The CB500 ran all three shift forks on the shift drum. However all the 550's used a separate shaft for two forks and one rides the drum. If you turn the upper case upside down and install the drum and two transmission shafts, it'll be obvious how to orient the forks. There is only one option.

[Blackfin5]

That's what I thought too.......   I haven't tried it yet with the tranny main and counter shafts set in place on the forks.  But I can get all 3 forks to index in the drum grooves regardless of which side the pin and housing is orientated.

For illustration only, here is a pic with the pin on the neutral switch side...


... and here the pin is on the cam plate side.


I'll try both orientations with the shafts in the upper case tomorrow after work to check whether the forks can be set onto the shafts in one or both orientations.

Thanks Brent.  (PS - my 550 shop manual only shows the 2nd shaft for '77 & '78 550s.  I'll try and get a pic of the page and reference).

[Blackfin5]

Just the fender and side covers back from paint.  3 coats clear then buffed.  All paint now finished - unless I add a small fly screen later.  Cut down and refit the inner rear fender.  Received new primary chain (nice and stiff), cam chain, and cam chain tensioner today.  Still waiting on one more primary shaft bearing and the F2 rod bolts before I can button up the cases.  Hope they arrive tomorrow.

[Blackfin5]

One small step closer - pistons back with coatings.  Still on hold for F2 con rod bolts/nuts.

[Trad]

Blackfin, What brand primary chain did you go with? I noticed David silvers has 2 versions. One Honda OEM and one OE spec version.

[Ravie]

Just read the thread from beginning to where you are now. What a kickass bike. I was looking at the pictures of the paint and powder just cussing out loud. Good thing only the dogs are here else I'd be getting strange looks from the wife n kids. haha

I wish I knew people like you around these parts.

After I build my 750 I might need to build a 550. Damn this disease I've contracted.

[Blackfin5]

Trad - it's a NOS from CMSL in Denmark (?).  Still in the original packaging.  I was impressed with how stiff/solid it is.  It was a tight fit on the primary shaft.  I have no idea where they get these primary chains because it's my understanding Honda stopped making them a while ago.

Ravie - thanks!  It's going slowly waiting for parts to come in.  I've been wanting to get the cases buttoned up for several weeks.  An oil seal here, rod bolts there .......

[Blackfin5]

I finally got the cases buttoned up and I am quite happy.  Like everything else, there was a backwards step.  The ratchet on the kickstart spindle would not disengage so I had to find a different spring and prowl (mine was bent and forcing the ratchet to stay engaged with the pinion gear).

The new F2 [con rod] bolts/nuts arrived.  New "black" con rod bearings and all spec-ed to tight, but consistent tolerances with Plastigage.  The rods were shot peened and the casting ridges were ground down, then balanced to the lightest rod.  Two rods were lighten a bit near the top, and one at the base.  All rods now within 1/2 gram.  I doubt I will ever feel or hear any difference but gives me grey matter satisfaction.

I cleaned the jug sleeves last night with WD40 and clean shop rags.  Checked piston and ring clearances in the sleeves, and then when all were deemed OK, installed the rings on the coated pistons.  Planning on installing the pistons and jugs this weekend - except need to test fit to see whether the .014 or .020 base gasket is the way to go.



My buddy's 550 Chicano Brown Bomber is nearing completion.  He broke off a brake bracket bolt in the fork and then broke off an extractor in the hole drilled in the bolt.  It's at the EMD shop now for removal.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Maybe he needs to rename his bike Lucky13.

[Blackfin5]

Ha!  That would only jinx it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The new F2 bolts/nuts arrived.

Blackfin,

For the uninitiated, what is the difference between F2 studs and APE studs?  Both appear similar.

[Blackfin5]

Something I learned from those smarter than me on this forum.  The con rod bolts/nuts from a 1977 CB750 F2 fit on 550 rods but are supposedly much stronger.

Cheers.

[bwaller]

For certain when you have an engine torn down it's wise to replace those original rod bolts. No telling how many times they've been torqued. The stock 500/550 rods are quite good and can handle extra power. The 750F2 bolts are an improvement in strength & for short money, the way to go for some insurance.

[Blackfin5]

Yes - correct.  The nuts shown in the pic are stud nuts on APE studs - not the F2 con rod nuts which you can't see because the cases are bolted together.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Don't mind me.  I was confused by the picture of the cylinder studs and nuts -- thinking he was using 750F2 studs as a replacement in place of APE studs. 

[riverfever]

There's a whole lot going on with this bike. Love the black paint. The polished fork legs. Fork brace. Nice job BF.

[Blackfin5]

Sorry guys.  My lexicon is dyslexic....or something like that.

[Blackfin5]

Four lil' pistons all in a row.....

The hose clamp and protective blue plastic is just a test fit.  I have to degrease the mating surface of the case and cylinders; then in the morning will install the Cometic base gasket.  Dry fit - no sealant.  Cal - there is no base gasket shown in this photo.   

[Blackfin5]

DFL, but don't know brand of thermal reflective coating on top.  Bare underside but while had chance should have considered it.  Done by Calico Coatings in N.C.  Good folks - fast turn around.

[Blackfin5]

Da*n it!!!  Bent no. 2 compression ring on no. 4 piston using hose clamp ring compressor.  The end of the ring got caught up in the little slots of the hose clamp.  Had a postal moment.  I am so frustrated!!!!!   Beer time...

[Blackfin5]

I only have a trivial offering for this build.....it's been stalled out waiting for rings and trying to source engine hanger bolts.  For the long thru-bolts, I'm using the OEM ones which are out being re-zinc'ed.

Received and installed a new set of 592cc rings for piston #4 to replace the ones I buggered up when trying to use hose clamps for ring compressors.  I bought 2 ring compressor tools with slight flanges on the top edge to prevent the band from trying to squeeze into the sleeves.  And picked up the small engine hanger parts from PC.  Because these will provide the ground between the engine and the frame, I will have to sand off the PC on the contact areas this weekend.

[Trad]

I love this bike. Looking forward to seeing it completed.

[Blackfin5]

New zinc plating for the 10mm and 12mm OEM hangers.



All hangers, old OEM and new, test fitted to frame.



New ring compressor tools made easy work of sliding pistons into bottom of jugs after having installed a Cometic 0.014 RS base gasket.  I wiped down and thoroughly cleaned new bores only with WD-40 and used a slight amount of break in oil around the bottom taper of the jugs and the rings.  New cam chain guide and tensioner put in as well.

 



Now, just waiting on the man in brown for the JMR Stage 3 head.  Hope to have the engine in the frame on Monday.

In the interim, we made up new 4 - 4 pipes for my buddy's black CB550.  Had to elimnate the center stand to fab up a nice close fit.  But rear wheel stand lugs go on next.  These new pipes sound awesome.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Those 4-4 pipes on your buddy's bike look awesome. I wonder what they sound like.