Author Topic: New guy, first build (Read 55714 times)

P.abrera · « **Reply #75 on:** June 07, 2014, 07:59:29 am »

Figured. List of replacement parts are growing.

Will do more cleaning and see what i find. Thanks for the interest and advice.

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grcamna2 · « **Reply #76 on:** June 07, 2014, 08:57:39 am »

P.arbrera,
Those are nice,clear pictures !

P.abrera · « **Reply #77 on:** July 24, 2014, 01:16:56 am »

Some progress. Top end is clean and ready for re-assembly. Valves are lapped and cylinders are bored out for the new 3mm over pistons.

Frame's been repaired and getting a tear hoop in the coming days.

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P.abrera · « **Reply #78 on:** July 29, 2014, 09:37:29 pm »

Side stand mount had to come off when the rotted part of the frame was cut out so my welder did a new mount and a cleaner/simpler stand in stainless (old stock stand was missing from my basket-case frame) . Passenger peg mounts have been deleted and rearset mounts have also been tacked on for fit as well.

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #79 on:** July 29, 2014, 10:09:45 pm »

That will work nicely!

calj737 · « **Reply #80 on:** July 30, 2014, 04:33:52 am »

Yes, that is a nicely done upgrade. One thing, I'd ask him to swage the bottom of the foot for better traction against the ground. Even if he has to weld a small oval plate to it, or grind a flat spot in. Round stock slips in some inconvenient moments.

P.abrera · « **Reply #81 on:** July 30, 2014, 04:34:20 am »

Would have preffered less "racy" rearsets but these are what was available to me.

Checkin stand stance

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calj737 · « **Reply #82 on:** July 30, 2014, 04:46:13 am »

Are you on going to run additional mounting tabs to the heel protector on the rearset? If not, you can remove that portion. The lower, rear portion of the rear set has another mounting tab that you might be able to use to support the exhaust canister.

P.abrera · « **Reply #83 on:** July 30, 2014, 04:48:34 am »

Quote from: calj737 on July 30, 2014, 04:33:52 am

Yes, that is a nicely done upgrade. One thing, I'd ask him to swage the bottom of the foot for better traction against the ground. Even if he has to weld a small oval plate to it, or grind a flat spot in. Round stock slips in some inconvenient moments.

Yep, all can-do. Id like to keep it small, slim and simple but might might do the flat-spot on the bottom of the foot.

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P.abrera · « **Reply #84 on:** July 30, 2014, 05:22:06 am »

Quote from: calj737 on July 30, 2014, 04:46:13 am

Are you on going to run additional mounting tabs to the heel protector on the rearset? If not, you can remove that portion. The lower, rear portion of the rear set has another mounting tab that you might be able to use to support the exhaust canister.

was just about to add, that extended heel guard has gotta go or get mod'ed to something smaller/less racy.

4-1 exhaust exits on the right side. Right rearset doesnt have the extra hole. Odd...

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calj737 · « **Reply #85 on:** July 30, 2014, 05:24:06 am »

Looks to me that left rear set was configured to hold a rear master cylinder originally. Do you on know the model and year from the donor bike? You might be able to disassemble the backing plates, and flip their sides to get the extra mounting flanges.

P.abrera · « **Reply #86 on:** July 30, 2014, 05:46:47 am »

Quote from: calj737 on July 30, 2014, 05:24:06 am

Looks to me that left rear set was configured to hold a rear master cylinder originally. Do you on know the model and year from the donor bike? You might be able to disassemble the backing plates, and flip their sides to get the extra mounting flanges.

These are current race rearsets for a cbr 150 (asian release) . There are 3 or 4 mounting positions for about an inch more upward or rearward, should be easy to find the sweetspot. Right side carries the rear master. Dunno what the extra mounts are for on the left tho.

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calj737 · « **Reply #87 on:** July 30, 2014, 06:02:25 am »

Probably for heelguards.

P.abrera · « **Reply #88 on:** August 06, 2014, 05:02:11 pm »

Somethin for the new guys like me: Extend the use of the stripped/chewed-up oil filter bolt by grinding it round and welding a larger nut on there.

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goldarrow · « **Reply #89 on:** August 06, 2014, 05:31:47 pm »

Great idea! Probably not much trouble and hassle for you, but for many of us who doesn't have welder, skills to well, and other resources, $10 for new bolt is far more promising.

P.abrera · « **Reply #90 on:** August 06, 2014, 07:07:55 pm »

Quote from: goldarrow on August 06, 2014, 05:31:47 pm

Great idea! Probably not much trouble and hassle for you, but for many of us who doesn't have welder, skills to well, and other resources, $10 for new bolt is far more promising.

Gotta squeeze all the use you can from old parts, spares are impossible in the philippines and int'l shipping cost hurts

that said, an aftermarket bolt (with the larger head) is on the shopping list the next time im overseas.

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P.abrera · « **Reply #91 on:** August 10, 2014, 12:32:06 am »

Bit more cleanup. Dented/pitted headers.

good enough to get her running for now. Tempted to cover the ugly with header wrap but will just spend the money on a freer flowing replacement system later down the road. Workin on a home-brew reverse cone end-pipe as well.

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calj737 · « **Reply #92 on:** August 10, 2014, 06:09:10 am »

If you could find someone to spray them with ceramic coat, you'd be much better off. Heavy resistance to corrosion, and improved scavenging!

P.abrera · « **Reply #93 on:** August 10, 2014, 02:47:46 pm »

Quote from: calj737 on August 10, 2014, 06:09:10 am

If you could find someone to spray them with ceramic coat, you'd be much better off. Heavy resistance to corrosion, and improved scavenging!
[/quote ]

i'll save that for a better set of pipes. These arent in great shape.

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P.abrera · « **Reply #94 on:** August 13, 2014, 10:36:15 pm »

Beginnings of my cafe hoop. Ready to weld up

The cut-offs came in handy to blend the roundbar to the pressed-steel section.

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P.abrera · « **Reply #95 on:** August 17, 2014, 06:34:19 am »

Picked up a 550 tank, cleaned up good outside as i wanna do bare metal/clearcoat. Inside is another story...someone painted it on the inside! As far as i can tell its paint, not some kind of sealer in there

looking into cut/flip/weld knee dents. It'll give me the look i want and a chance to deal with the inside.

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #96 on:** August 17, 2014, 02:50:12 pm »

"PAINT" on the inside??!! What the . . . It might be bad redcoat or some other coating.

You can strip the inside with acetone or better yet, take it to a radiator shop and have them strip the inside and pressure test it. Once your good on that, coat it with Caswell (epoxy) and call it a day. Then clear coat your outside.

P.abrera · « **Reply #97 on:** August 18, 2014, 12:46:28 am »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on August 17, 2014, 02:50:12 pm

"PAINT" on the inside??!! What the . . . It might be bad redcoat or some other coating.

You can strip the inside with acetone or better yet, take it to a radiator shop and have them strip the inside and pressure test it. Once your good on that, coat it with Caswell (epoxy) and call it a day. Then clear coat your outside.

A buddy had a look at this stuff. It would seem to be an anzhal epoxy primer. Applied as a kinda 3rd-world tank sealer.

...its a #$%* to take off. Argh.

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calj737 · « **Reply #98 on:** August 18, 2014, 04:37:37 am »

If your tank is down to bare metal, then use a torch over the tank to cook it off. Just don't get nuts with prolonged heating or too hot a temp. If it is epoxy primer, it will bubble loose. Or use a high quality chemical paint stripper.

Harsh · « **Reply #99 on:** August 18, 2014, 05:06:36 am »

MEK works very well at removing crap in the tank.

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Author Topic: New guy, first build (Read 55714 times)