Topic: Maduncle has FINALLY got himself a CB750K

[maduncle]

Cool Noddy - I will.

Meanwhile, my sump plug arrived today from the UK so now I can make my engine oil tight.

Time to go spend money on oil, I am thinking Penrite 10/40 for the first 100km before oil change.

[Terry in Australia]

Don't waste your money on good oil for breakin Cliff, Supercheap sell a cheap oil ( can't remember the name, but it's in a blue container) for around 14 bucks for 4 litres, it's actually pretty good oil, so run it for a couple of hundred Km and then switch to Penrite. I use their HPR GAS in the FJR1300, as did the previous owner, and it's done 231000Km (over 140,000 miles) and the engine's never been apart. Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

Good news - no oil leaks in the static engine! Which bodes well for no leaks when it is up and running.

Meanwhile - I spent a couple of hours sitting in front of the front end of the bike, playing "what happens if you join these two wires together?"

What I learnt:

- aftermarket speedos with built in idiot lights have wiring that actually makes sense  once you realise every coloured wire with a black trace is the earth for the matching coloured wire with no black trace.

- photocopiers distort colours on wiring diagrams. There is no "orange with white trace" in the front end, it is actually brown with white trace".

Closer to completing the wiring now - tell me please:

- do I really plug the wires for the indicator light into the pale blue and brown for left and right indicators?

- do repro wiring harnesses have a whole mess of unused connectors in the headlamp bowl all with white collars on them?

[Terry in Australia]

Don't worry about the unused connectors Cliff, I haven't seen a CB750 yet, with a wiring harness where all the connectors were, er, connected. I'm not sure what you're asking in your first question, but the blinker wires are pale blue and orange, so if you have a light for them on your dash, the wires from the harness to the indicator light will be (drum roll........) pale blue, and orange. Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

Don't worry about the unused connectors Cliff, I haven't seen a CB750 yet, with a wiring harness where all the connectors were, er, connected. I'm not sure what you're asking in your first question, but the blinker wires are pale blue and orange, so if you have a light for them on your dash, the wires from the harness to the indicator light will be (drum roll........) pale blue, and orange. Cheers, Terry.

Got that bit Terry - but if I have one pale blue wire and one orange wire for the blinker light, do I connect the pale blue and orange to the same terminals the corresponding blinkers are on?

Just does not make sense to me, as that would seem to be connecting a signal light up to two positive power feeds and no earth.

[Terry in Australia]

I don't know if you're using the OEM idiot light console or whether you've hooked up some snazzy steampunk light thingy, but the OEM light has just that, and (I'm guessing) with a common earth. See the wiring diagram pic, below. Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

Yep - thats the exact same diagram I am working off mate.

I am using a stock (non steampunk) aftermarket speedo gauge with the four idiot lights built in. Each idiot light has a power lead and corresponding earth lead.

So it is:

- gauge face light power orange, gauge face light earth orange with black trace.
- indicator idiot light power yellow, indicator idiot light earth yellow with black trace.
- oil idiot light power red, oil idiot light earth red with black trace.
- high beam idiot light power blue, high beam idiot light earth blue with black trace.
- neutral idiot light power green, neutral idiot light earth free with black trace.

Got them all sorted to their respective "power when activated" power sources, apart from the indicator idiot light.

I guess there is a way as they sell millions of these little white faced gauges.

http://www.shop.modernmotorcyclecompany.com.au/collections/instruments/products/speedo-60mm-with-warning-lights-white-face-140kph

[maduncle]

And here are all my questions answered:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=123442.0

Now to get some diodes.

[Terry in Australia]

Fcuk it, you don't need indicator lights anyway, I just look at my blinkers to see if they're one..........

[maduncle]

Fcuk it, you don't need indicator lights anyway, I just look at my blinkers to see if they're one..........

Yeah - they only work half the time anyway so who needs 'em?

Okay - I do.

So this evening I made the "two diodes joined together thingie" I found on a three here and installed in my front end wiring loom.

Getting closer to 100% wiring done now - tomorrow night its the stator, then PAMCO to coils, then Motogadget keyless start switch then hopefully it is time to gently start the bike!

[Terry in Australia]

Well done Cliff, see, you could do it after all!

[maduncle]

Hmmmm

Stator wired up.

Went to do the PAMCO and needed to turn the engine to get the timing right - and it wont budge.

Tried it with the plugs out, tried a gentle rocking back and forward in gear, tried the kick starter, no movement.

So I spoke to the guy who built the engine and he tells me that he turned it over okay on the alternator bolt, and that it would be a little stiff if it sat still for a couple of days but still moved. He did this with the alternator cover off, so I am wondering if the alternator cover is hitting something and stopping the crank from moving?

I am open to ideas and suggestions folks ...

[Terry in Australia]

That doesn't sound right Cliff, I built Mike's engine a couple of years ago (yeah I know, I better give it back soon......) and it turns over fine every few weeks when I crank it over. With the plugs out, your enginet should turn over really easily.

Take the alternator cover off and see if it turns over, but if it doesn't, or if it's still really tight, (especially with the plugs out) you better take it back to him............Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

That doesn't sound right Cliff, I built Mike's engine a couple of years ago (yeah I know, I better give it back soon......) and it turns over fine every few weeks when I crank it over. With the plugs out, your enginet should turn over really easily.

Take the alternator cover off and see if it turns over, but if it doesn't, or if it's still really tight, (especially with the plugs out) you better take it back to him............Cheers, Terry.

Yep, stator cover off tomorrow arvo after the bike shuffle.

He is coming over on Monday night to have a look, if I have not freed up the engine by then he will be taking the whole bike home with him and bringing it back when it runs.

[Terry in Australia]

Good idea mate, get him to get it running properly while he's at it.

[oldskullero]

Subscribed. Great proj

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[maduncle]

Good news people.

The bike turned over on the stator bolt, then turned over on the points cover nut, then on the kick starter and finally on the starter motor.

I am still a couple of weeks away from the full fire up - so I guess in between now and then I just need to turn it over by hand once a day to keep it moving.

My engine builder had a look at my headlamp bowl wiring...

... and we started again. So I now have a few wires to connect up tomorrow night. turns out repro switch blocks don't always plug and play according to the original wiring diagrams.

But hey - I am very happy the engine turns over.

[maduncle]

And the good news keeps on coming.

With the help of a mate we fitted the Motogadget M lock last night - these things are pretty easy to fit and the sensor works thr ought the side cover - so I now have hidden keyless ignition.

[dumbquestions]

Getting close!

I am following eagerly. Plan to run Pamco too so I'm looking over your shoulder.

[maduncle]

Getting close!

I am following eagerly. Plan to run Pamco too so I'm looking over your shoulder.

That was you breathing down my neck then?

The PAMCO to coil wiring task is the very last part of the wiring journey. As of last night I got headlamp, gauges, indicators, brake (off both front and rear levers) tail light all working. Neutral worked and then stopped (need to check the switch).

The plan for the Motogadget M lock is to get a "grain of rice" RFID microchip programmed to operate the M lock, then get it inserted under the web of skin between my right thumb and forefinger. But - getting a key tattoo there first. Sounds mad I know, but I want to try it, and if I ever need another bike to run off the same RFID, I can fit another M lock and program it to the same code.

[calj737]

The plan for the Motogadget M lock is to get a "grain of rice" RFID microchip programmed to operate the M lock, then get it inserted under the web of skin between my right thumb and forefinger.

    Me thinks you've earned your Avatar honestly- I wonder if MG wold send you free stuff if they learned of your, eh-hm, devotion?

...and if I ever need another bike to run off the same RFID, I can fit another M lock and program it to the same code.

This is exactly how I treat all of my bikes with MG stuff. One fob works on all bikes.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The plan for the Motogadget M lock is to get a "grain of rice" RFID microchip programmed to operate the M lock, then get it inserted under the web of skin between my right thumb and forefinger.

    Me thinks you've earned your Avatar honestly- I wonder if MG wold send you free stuff if they learned of your, eh-hm, devotion?

...and if I ever need another bike to run off the same RFID, I can fit another M lock and program it to the same code.

This is exactly how I treat all of my bikes with MG stuff. One fob works on all bikes.

Now to just get that one code . . . .

[calj737]

Now to just get that one code . . . .

Regrettably, my K13 doesn't have an M-Lock, Don.  You'll still have to venture indoors to get that key (if you dare)
http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/89/27/d5/8927d504c13ba753ec2aee8ed2dd77ab.jpg

[maduncle]

IT LIVES!!!

After completing the PAMCO to coils wiring yesterday I ran a little fuel down the lines to see if the bike would start.

Darn thing roared into life on the merest tap of the start button. I fair pooped myself as it went to full revs (no no no no no - be gentle!!!) so I made a mad grab for the idle screw to slow the beast down. By then the skerrick (that's a smidgen) of fuel was gone anyway.

Meanwhile I need to now get my freshly painted tank fixed as there are a couple of pin holes in the bottom of it, I don't want to just try a liner so I will get the holes properly braised up by a local welder. Wit any luck he can do it without damaging the paint. But if he does I can get it painted again.

So now it is gentle turn over by hand each day to keep it from getting sticky - until I get it to a mate for a tune.

Feels good knowing this engine runs so well.

[Terry in Australia]

Well done Cliff, but I do remember telling you to check the tank for leaks before you had it painted, the tank has already been lined, so you've got a problem, sadly. If you can get the old POR15 stripped out without damaging your paint job well and good, but if not, start looking for another tank. Anyway, good to know that it goes. Cheers, Terry.