Author Topic: Jakal cb550 project (Read 40051 times)

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #225 on:** July 09, 2020, 06:04:37 PM »

Thanks 754, got your pm will try him.

dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #226 on:** July 16, 2020, 09:56:56 AM »

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20034.0

placeholder so I can find this again.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #227 on:** September 13, 2020, 02:20:30 PM »

Getting things up to street legal requirements. Got a license plate holder that can fold up to allow the seat to open.

Lights are all there, but some dodgy indicator sockets may need some attention. I'm going to try starting it without the headlight and tail light fuses and focus on the main electrical components for now (I rigged up a new set of in-line fuses that I hope make things work better, we will see).

I finally mounted the roller engine to the stand, so now I can figure out what to do with it.

I think I may start another thread to get some opinions, information and even advice, if anyone is willing.

cheers, Darren

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #228 on:** September 13, 2020, 02:43:41 PM »

Opinions, information, and even advice on what to do with the 550 roller engine.

It came out of a 77 cb 550k.

Came with nothing above the barrel, not seized, but the kick starter shaft was not attached.

I removed the oil pan when I discovered the sealant that was squeezed out everywhere.

This revealed some minor damage on the oil pan mating surface.

I bought the roller mainly because I wanted the rear wheel, as the one on my bike is not from a 550. But now that I have it I figure I may as well do something with it. I would be happy to have another engine as a spare. I'm playing with the idea of trying to save one of these bikes a an original and make the other into a period racer and perhaps try out some racing in the future. So, I'm now leaning towards splitting the roller engine cases because of what I have seen.

If I do this then I would be looking at best bang for the buck modifications that could be done and keep within period racer guidelines.

I know, search button, and I have, but I figure if anyone has an opinion I would listen,

cheers, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #229 on:** September 19, 2020, 03:55:32 PM »

With all the smoke I had some time and looked a little closer at the roller engine.

The OP was a bit hamfisted as shown by some damage to the oil filter mating surface and on the one piston.

The blue sealant goop and the fact that I cannot see any light at all through the oil feeder orifice is not a good sign I don't think.

At least I found all the parts to the kick starter shaft (minus the outer washer).

Later, dj

754 · « **Reply #230 on:** September 19, 2020, 04:32:16 PM »

As soon as I see that on a motors I know I am rolling the dice.. and I have rode it anyway..
And after a while , might have been the next year... it ate a cam and rockers.,

I you open it now , you may not need to replace anything.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #231 on:** September 19, 2020, 07:23:09 PM »

Yea 754, I will split the cases and clean it all up. The motor in the runner looks much better as I don’t think anyone was in too deep.

Cheers, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #232 on:** September 23, 2020, 03:56:26 PM »

Had some time (and needed to check machines) so I made a cradle for the engine stand to split the cases. Happy to have planned to upgrade the stand when I first made it.

Later, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #233 on:** September 24, 2020, 04:49:27 PM »

Found some more ham fisted evidence on a mangled dowel pin. Always makes me wonder what is the history of this machine. Some one clearly split the cases and closed them up using some blue sealant. The oil orifices where clogged so maybe a cooked top end (and why it's missing).

Anyway, I was glad to get the flywheel (or whatever it's called) off so I can replace the seal once it's split. I never did get the one on the runner off and I really tried hard with a gear puller and a big threaded bolt.

That' it, dj

rb550four · « **Reply #234 on:** October 11, 2020, 01:09:01 PM »

You didn't want to take that bolt out before you put on the flywheel puller? Might take a while to get it apart.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #235 on:** October 11, 2020, 04:45:01 PM »

Sorry, I’m not following. The bolt is just loose enough to allow the flywheel to pop off. On this engine it came off relatively easy.

Not the case with the “runner” engine. Tried this way and tried the threaded type puller but it wouldn’t budge, so I just cleaned it up and went with it.

On this engine I expect to replace the seals and wanted to get the flywheel off before I split the cases. Seemed that it would be easier to do it now on the stand.

Cheers, dj

rb550four · « **Reply #236 on:** October 11, 2020, 05:34:54 PM »

DJ, it didn't look like the bolt was backed out in the pic to me. my bad. I have had luck with presquirting wd 40 on everything a night before backing that bolt out and squirting it again , reinsert the bolt just short of bottom ,then after turning the flywheel remover until it feels really tight (loaded), I bump the nut (solid tap only ) on the tool with a hammer and see if it'll tighten up a little bit more and bump it with a hammer again , it usually takes about 3 bumps and it pops off. Haven't had to use other methods yet but if I had to I suppose I would try a freon like spray and or a little heat too, anything not to damage the crankshaft. I just got caught up on your thread, nice work happening here for sure.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #237 on:** October 11, 2020, 06:58:22 PM »

Hey rb, thanks for your interest in my project and thanks for your comments! That picture was taken just after it popped off.

Yea, I tried just about everything to get the flywheel off my other engine including a lot of heat, penetrants, and some “bumps” with a hammer. Eventually I realised that I didn’t really need to get it off as it is just a hunk of metal and nothing can really go wrong with it and I was thinking that I was going to break something if I kept going.

Quote from: rb550four on October 11, 2020, 05:34:54 PM

I just got caught up on your thread, nice work happening here for sure.

I’ve enjoyed your builds as well !

Cheers, dj

rb550four · « **Reply #238 on:** October 12, 2020, 09:57:31 AM »

DJ , I've had brake pedals on my mind and while strolling threw the shop I noticed that the 84 650 nighthank on the lift has a cast pedal that sticks out as far as the 76's does and it's already shorter than the 550 650 s , But the spline is a smaller diameter at the spline. It's not apart so I can't tell if the area that receives the grease would be able to fit well in the 550 frame or if it would take a bushing........or if maybe a larger nighthawk may have a similar pedal with a correct size mount... I just know that availability might be better for acquiring one of these over the 76/77 pedal if you were gonna alter it anyways. Okay, now it's out of my mind and I'll go onto the next thing and get out of your hair for a while.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #239 on:** October 13, 2020, 08:12:54 AM »

Thanks again for all your help. I'm not in a hurry and I think I may be able to find a cast pedal that was thrashed in a crash at one of the used motorcycle shops in town. At least I hope!

Anyway, cheers, dj

754 · « **Reply #240 on:** October 13, 2020, 08:31:55 AM »

You can always cut yours off , then weld on a tab with 2 holes. Then make a pedal out of a piece of aluminium plate...like 1/2 inch thick. If the tab is shaped like a channel to help hold the brake arm, 1/2 would work.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #241 on:** October 13, 2020, 09:14:30 AM »

In a pinch you could resurface the gouge on the case and the oil filter mating surface with JB Weld and sand it flat using a sheet of plate glass and sand paper. Just have to skim it on so it is close and have the area being sanded be only in the area of the JB Weld. Better to apply a couple coats and level it and then fill any voids and low spots with second application. I am presuming they haven’t deformed the metal making it stand proud of the surface. Metal straight-edge can tell you if that is the case.

But, before I did that I would price a new set of cases... the silicone could rear its head to bite you in the bollocks if you are not certain to clear any traces of it. Engine work is too expensive to risk on dodgy cases in my opinion and pocketbook...

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #242 on:** October 13, 2020, 12:04:36 PM »

Hey 754,

That's pretty much what I am going to do. I just want another #$%*ty pedal to do it to. I'm trying to keep a set of original controls to put together a more stock bike in the future.

And thanks RAF, for your thoughts on the damage to the cases.

I was planning to do just as you suggest and see how that goes. This is a second project that I had not anticipated so I'm taking my time to get it done and will decide as I get into the engine some more to see if there are any more surprises. The engine came with a roller I picked up mainly for the rear wheel (the one I have on my bike is not from a 550), but now that I have it I figure I might as well do something with it (on my very limited budget).

cheers, Darren

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #243 on:** November 06, 2020, 11:13:09 AM »

I found a brake pedal at a local shop that has an ebay store, so now I can make one to work with the rear sets.

Of course I wasn't going to go down there without knowing what else they may have and because of the damage on the roller engine cases (and from some comments here) I decided to look at some case halves. And I bought them. $60 CDN pesos for the cases and I'm out the door. They look much better than the roller's, so now I will have to do a deep dive into crank bearings.

Later, dj

754 · « **Reply #244 on:** November 07, 2020, 12:24:33 AM »

Looks sort of like an automatic model case set.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #245 on:** November 07, 2020, 09:00:27 AM »

Quote from: 754 on November 07, 2020, 12:24:33 AM

Looks sort of like an automatic model case set.

Really? I didn’t think they made an an automatic 550. What’s the difference?

dj

rb550four · « **Reply #246 on:** November 07, 2020, 12:13:27 PM »

Delete last post. can't do it from here.

Kelly E · « **Reply #247 on:** November 07, 2020, 08:43:33 PM »

Too late

754 · « **Reply #248 on:** November 07, 2020, 09:09:38 PM »

Aha 550 case, my bad .. was thinking of 750 and that pan looked way off.. sorry about that,,

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #249 on:** November 08, 2020, 07:41:00 AM »

All good Frank, I admit to pulling your chain a bit.

Cheers, dj

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Author Topic: Jakal cb550 project (Read 40051 times)