Topic: Project Rina ------ the scooter intimidator!

[razor02097]

I found out how to do it legally is I have to sign a sworn statement that the mileage on the new odometer is correct.  I will take a photo anyway for reference.  I'm not planning on selling Rina...ever but just in case I want her title to be clear.

[razor02097]

Not much to update but the clock turned over 3000 miles already so it seems to be working.  I'm hoping to get a nice and sunny day to assemble Rina soon though.  I'm kind of tired of looking at all these parts in my room.


Everyone have a wonderful Independence Day and don't blow yourselves up 

[cb650PK]

I have been running 17t sprocket for 10 years, no problem for the clutch. For better brakes, 82 cb650 standart, used twin piston caliper that just slips in, no other mods needed.

[razor02097]

I have been running 17t sprocket for 10 years, no problem for the clutch. For better breaks, 82 cb650 standart, used twin piston caliper that just slips in, no other mods needed.

Really?  Thats F'in sweet  I'll have to keep an eye out for one.  Do you need the mounting bracket too?  I would love to have duel disk but any upgrade would be better then what I have now

I'm actually thinking of switching to a 16 tooth front sproket though.  I find starting on a steep hill isn't very fun. 

[razor02097]

well it was inevitable... the carbs didn't last the summer.  The air cutoff valves are completely toast and the accelerator pump is done.  I ordered a 16 tooth front to try out.  I also was able to find the accelerator pump diaphragm thanks to Kit

The carbs have been disassembled down to nothing and are soaking in a carb cleaner/fuel bath to rid the f#$%ing s$#% out of the f#%^ing carb... oops...  

Oh on the brighter side I did get the forks on and got the headlight bracket conversion.  Its good there.  I also converted to taper bearings in the steering stem.

The progressive suspension is way way more stiff.  Not exactally a cadillac but it isn't squishy so I can actually take a corner at speed now  

Also replaced my 30A main fuse with a 30A mini style fuse.  Not really an improvement but its easier to find fuses now.

Put new brushes in the starter and cleaned up the armature.  It was starting to get the hard start symptom.

I guess you guys want pics?  They are crappy cell phone pics so sorry about that...

















I experimented with the new gauges... they did look good but I need to figure out the idiot light thing before they are mounted for good. Right now she has the stock meters.

[Frankenkit]

beautiful progress.  Consider maybe matte black rustoleum on those headlight ears? Maybe just rust inhibitor... but something to halt the progress of that rust.  I think cycle recycle has air cutoff diaphragms, too.

[razor02097]

Ok I got the carbs back together.  They where stripped down to metal and soaked in real carb cleaner.  All passages where cleaned, O-rings replaced, and all air cut off valves replaced.  The accelerator pump has been ordered.  I have some before pics...







and after pics













Notice while i was in there I did switch the fuel Tee from the left side to the right.  This will hopefully help reduce the chances of fuel line kinking.  Something I can't get over is how heavy these futher mucking carbs are    Just a big chunk of metal  

[razor02097]

Oh and the speedometer is up to 9095.8 miles at this moment 

[strangedaze39]

Great project! I think it's hilarious how you're using a fan to turn the odometer. Did you have any problems when putting the front end back on? I tried pulling mine and reassembling it, without rebuilding it and now it won't return like normal when I press down on the front end. Maybe I filled it wrong with ATF or busted a seal, is what I'm thinking. Carbs look really great also.

Best luck with the project.

[manjisann]

WOW the carbs look great!! Is that just from soaking them in the cleaner or did you soda blast them as well?

Brandon

[Frankenkit]

yeah that kink is the bane of my existence. Very nice carbs.

[manjisann]

Kinky carbs, hehe. Sorry, couldn't help it. 

Brandon

[razor02097]

WOW the carbs look great!! Is that just from soaking them in the cleaner or did you soda blast them as well?

Brandon

Yes that is just from soaking them in the carb cleaner.  I used



Its good stuff you mix can mix it with water but its much better if you mix it 1:2 with gasoline.

yeah that kink is the bane of my existence. Very nice carbs.

Thank you and yes the idea was to get rid of the fuel line kinking problem.  The sucky part is to do that mod improvement you need to completely disassemble the carbs.

Kinky carbs, hehe. Sorry, couldn't help it. 

Brandon

 

[razor02097]

Great project! I think it's hilarious how you're using a fan to turn the odometer. Did you have any problems when putting the front end back on? I tried pulling mine and reassembling it, without rebuilding it and now it won't return like normal when I press down on the front end. Maybe I filled it wrong with ATF or busted a seal, is what I'm thinking. Carbs look really great also.

Best luck with the project.

I didn't really have problems with the front end.  I put the forks on then rested them onto the front wheel.  I didn't lift the wheel to the forks.  At the shop sometimes I would have trouble with the front forks binding when I lifted the wheel up to the forks.  Best thing to do there is put on center stand then take the fork caps off and then jack the front up to float the bike then slowly lower them back down to the wheel then reassemble.  If that doesn't fix it then it could be something internal with the forks.

[razor02097]

10,510 miles 

[razor02097]

12,448 miles

I received my parts from cycle recycle today!  Put the carbs all together and tossed them on.  No leaks so I was super stoked   Fired up Rina and.... wouldn't idle    however switching to the paper filter and turning the screws out 2 turns fixed that    Did a carb sync and the off idle bog is completely gone now and she runs super smooth.  Tomorrow will be checking valve clearances, and reassembling Rina.

The front sprocket shipped today also.  I will be installing that as soon as it arrives

[razor02097]

15,269 miles

Today I wired up a bottom drawer tail light... everything I already had on hand so it didn't cost me but about an hour.  Its all mounted on a license plate bracket I had in a parts bin.  The turn signals are the same short stalk signals like the front has and the lights are something I had from some project at some point  

The thing is I would rather NOT modify the bike itself to fit a part if I can help it.  But modifying the part to fit on the bike is fair game.  The bracket bolts in the stock location and uses the stock wiring harness so I haven't detracted from the the bike I can always put it back to stock.

I have a pic of what it looked like before wiring it up.



most likely not permanent but for now its at least LED and mini turn signals.

After its wired up



I still would like to make a cover to go over the wires but its functional for now.  The license plate light is actually a LED windshield washer thing ricers put on their cars... dunno why I got it but it was in my parts bin and it works.  One last thing I need to do is get a running light cause the tail lights are 1 stage LED and the turn signals have no running light either.  Oh well.  

[razor02097]

16,682 miles

I keep having idling issues... its either running super rich and idle correct or not and not.... driving me fin crazy.  I notice she was running very lean on top end so I switched the main jets from 90 to 100, turned the idle screws in .5 turns and switched to the UNI filter again.  She runs great everywhere except idle.

Let me explain exactally whats happening.

Turning the idle screws out 2 turns from close will produce a good behavor and good idle except both pipes will smoke rich.  Turning in the screws .5 turns or 1.5 turns total will lessen the smoke a lot but the idle will go to about 1000 RPM. 

At 2 turns out there is a bog in the midrange

At 1.5 turns shifting will hang RPM slightly, when decelerating and pulling in the clutch the RPMs will stay at 2000 for 15-20 seconds then settle to about 1000 RPM with risk of stalling.  There is no bog or hesitation with a throttle blip.



I am thinking that my pressed in slow jets where stretched out by the PO... I didn't have this bad of a problem before I rebuilt the carbs but thinking cleaning the carbs may have opened it back up... I did not use anything to poke the jets just compressed air as the carb cleaner did a #$%*in job of cleaning them.

Any ideas? 

[manjisann]

Hopefully TT or someone wiser than I will be along soon, but

At 1.5 turns shifting will hang RPM slightly, when decelerating and pulling in the clutch the RPMs will stay at 2000 for 15-20 seconds then settle to about 1000 RPM with risk of stalling.

kinda sounds like an air leak between the carbs and cylinders. Are the boots in good condition? Easiest way to test is spray the connections with something like starter fluid or carb cleaner. If it suddenly bogs you have a leak, if nothing happens thats not it, if the heat from your engine causes the stuff to explode, you have a fire 

Brandon

[razor02097]

Hopefully TT or someone wiser than I will be along soon, but

At 1.5 turns shifting will hang RPM slightly, when decelerating and pulling in the clutch the RPMs will stay at 2000 for 15-20 seconds then settle to about 1000 RPM with risk of stalling.

kinda sounds like an air leak between the carbs and cylinders. Are the boots in good condition? Easiest way to test is spray the connections with something like starter fluid or carb cleaner. If it suddenly bogs you have a leak, if nothing happens thats not it, if the heat from your engine causes the stuff to explode, you have a fire 

Brandon

Your probably right there.. didn't think about the boots.  I might post a separate thread I don't know if TT watches this one

[manjisann]

I was only kidding about the exploding part  I once forgot to tighten down the boots on the 500 and the rpms shot through the roof every time I'd tweek the throttle and took forever to come back down. Not the exact same scenario as what you describe, but with luck it'll be a big portion of the cause ( I say luck as this is probably an easier fix that tearing into the carbs again.)

Brandon

[razor02097]

18,453 miles


Today I screwed around with the carbs again.  Pulled them off the bike.  The float levels where a bit off and I adjusted the mix screws out 2 turns.  Seems to run ok but we will see.

Rina gets to rest tomorrow as the weather may be bad so I took the front caliper apart and all the parts are soaking (well all but the rubber)  Found some crud in there though... looked like grease    If thats what old brake fluid turns into then WTF....  I already rebuilt the MC last year so a good flush should do the trick.  Squeeky no more....I hope 

[manjisann]

My experience is old brake fluid turns to a gritty crystal, grease thats new. Maybe its some old decomposed rubber?

Brandon

[razor02097]

My experience is old brake fluid turns to a gritty crystal, grease thats new. Maybe its some old decomposed rubber?

Brandon

Strange... I wonder if its a piece of the old master cylinder... The old MC would leak like a rushing sieve 

I checked the progress of the soaking caliper... I'm thinking the carb cleaner has all but given up Or maybe the caliper has NEVER been apart... either way I think I will be doing some manual brushing and scraping which sucks.

[manjisann]

If you have a dremel get one of the brass brushes and used that, it works soo well. If you don't have a dremel, you can chuck a brass brush in a drill but its not as convenient. The brass wheel works really good for getting the crud out of the seal seat which is crucial if you want to have a good seal. I've even take a piece of aluminum rod, drilled a hole just slightly larger than the diameter of the shank on the brass brush and then jb welded the brush shank in there, course I did that because the MC on my 500 was stupid deep.

Brandon