Topic: Vintage Speed Part Mashup - 1976 CB750F

[slikwilli420]

I've been trying to figure out the cleanest way to run the brake line from the front master through the bottom tree. I didn't want to just drill a few holes in the lower tree and go about it that way. I designed this manifold to get the outlets for each caliper a bit further apart. This manifold will be fitted flush under the bottom tree. From the top all you will see is the one inlet fitting. That line will be a bent hard line in stainless steel. Once everything else is done and the triple tree is cut to accept it, I will attach it with a few small Allen bolts.

[FunJimmy]

I've been trying to figure out the cleanest way to run the brake line from the front master through the bottom tree. I didn't want to just drill a few holes in the lower tree and go about it that way. I designed this manifold to get the outlets for each caliper a bit further apart. This manifold will be fitted flush under the bottom tree. From the top all you will see is the one inlet fitting. That line will be a bent hard line in stainless steel. Once everything else is done and the triple tree is cut to accept it, I will attach it with a few small Allen bolts.

That will be really clean when you're done. Touché

[754]

I know a far easier cleaner way.
Drill stem and topnut.... I use AN-3 hose and to avoid a huge hole in stem nut, I assemble hose with nut on it.
Get a tee for the bottom. Then run 90,s or 45,s for the upper fitting of the lower hoses. 45,s forged are pricey but look best.  Or you could make an aluminum block tee.. Drill an tap for 1/8 NPT to AN-3 adaptor
 It would be a sano setup...

[slikwilli420]

This way will be super clean too. Nothing but one fitting visible from the top. The stem route is no good for me anyway since I have the damper knob on top at the stem nut.

[754]

So drill the top side,drill the lowers in at 45 so they intersect, tap to 1/8NPT.....easy... cleaner..

[slikwilli420]

Got a couple bits back from water jet cutting to get ready to make a few more parts. The first is a template I drew up so I could properly locate my brake line manifold under the bottom tree. I had to press the stem out so I could mount the tree in the mill for cutting.

I also modified the design on the front and rear motor mounts from previous so I could make some additional cuts on each like milling bosses for the bolts into each to give them a more three-dimensional look.

The next is the catch can mounts. I redesigned these since the pinch on the other ones I made didn't work very well and this arrangement will be much better.

Last is for the gas cap and oil cap. The original Rickman unit is black plastic and since I wanted both caps to match, I decided to go aluminum. I will do some shaping and fitting on these to profile them down nice and slim.

[slikwilli420]

Got the front brake line manifold fitted to the lower tree and I have to say I think its one of the coolest bits on the whole bike. This way really cleans up the lower triple where the splitter is normally visible from the front. Now, unless you crouch down, you will just see one line going in and two coming out. I'm very happy with the way this turned out.

[slikwilli420]

The way I designed my manifold was using a drill to match all of the holes (1/8" drill bit) and then a larger area at each end I wanted to plug. I turned aluminum plugs and pressed them in below flush and will have them welded over and smooth them out. That will guarantee no leaks.

[slikwilli420]

Been trying to keep pressure on this project for the last few weeks, even if its just one small thing here and there, rather than going dormant for long periods.

I got some fitting done on the replacement gas cap. This is an aluminum unit that mimics the original Rickman shape. The cap valve is now fitted. I will need to come up with a "snout" that I can bolt to the holes where the cap valve is so I can turn the curved top profile of the cap so it is closer to the original in shape.

I also realized that I didn't have pics of the new rearset brackets on the thread yet so here they are. The ones I had before were a copy of some others I had seen and I wanted something fresh so came up with a more organic design. My intention is for all parts to be one off but instead of looking like freshly machined billet, they will almost look like a nicely cast part from the era.

Lastly is the front engine mount. Again, this is the second one I made since the first didn't have any depth to it and was boring to me. It may be a little thick so I might take 3/16" off the back but I'm still debating.

[70CB750]

Quite nice!

Please, be aware that cast parts have what is called Draft angle:



means billet will never look like a cast aluminum, unless you make it with a tapered end mill.

[slikwilli420]

Good info! What I'm trying to achieve is that warm flowing look of cast items that many times is not found in new billet pieces that are very angular and geometric looking. Rounded edges and flowing lines are what I am after. I want someone to look twice wondering if something was a period piece or is a new part.

[754]

KBC has cheap tapered endmills..choice of about 6 angles..

[754]

 Here is a pic of the the 41 mm version of the Betors...actually 41.25 mm.
 Note the lip at top of the upper triple, tunes don't slide thru.

[slikwilli420]

Really nice setup you have there. I still can't believe  you got those trees as cheap as you did. Just sent my 38mm Rickman trees of to Jim F to be welded up from their corrosion damage.

[slikwilli420]

Back at it!

Back to polishing parts to finish assembling the front end. Items left on the front besides polishing:
Brake lines
Finish brake line manifold
Fit different clip ons (going from new tommaselli bars to vintage ones)
Finish mounting fender

After that it will be on to finishing the drawn out project of rebuilding my Marzocchi shocks. Then hopefully it will be time for a roller.

Got a very special sub-project that is finally coming to fruition that will be one of the crowning details on the bike but I will wait until parts show up in the next few days.

Here is some polishing porn.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

What is the fourth hole for?

[slikwilli420]

I made a brake line manifold that goes underneath. That hole is for a fitting that goes to the master cylinder and it splits on the bottom to go to both calipers. There are more pics a page or two back as well. Glad to see you still following along Don!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Good design feature. I think Joker does something similar through its lower triple clamp.

[knottedknickers]

I made a brake line manifold that goes underneath. That hole is for a fitting that goes to the master cylinder and it splits on the bottom to go to both calipers. There are more pics a page or two back as well. Glad to see you still following along Don!

Like here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,133638.msg1779421.html#msg1779421 and here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,133638.msg1786515.html#msg1786515

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Clever!

[slikwilli420]

Clever!

All in the name of adding a clean flair to a vintage-inspired project. I thought for months on different ideas to make that line split and look ultra clean. The only way to do it cleaner would have been to drill the actual triple tree and fill holes at the ends to make passage ways for the fluid.

[Tintop]

You could have also done a closed one from the top, and then angle drilled in on the front face of the top triple to get the split.

[slikwilli420]

You could have also done a closed one from the top, and then angle drilled in on the front face of the top triple to get the split.

I definitely thought about that approach but wanted something more custom and that looked more deliberate.

[slikwilli420]

Without any adieu whatsoever here is a peek at the cockpit as it sits right now. Still need to gather some bits to complete the setup but it will be full tilt vintage race parts. Still need to figure out switches but that's a minor detail.

It took a lot of searching to get that clutch master and it even went back to AP for refurbishing but they didn't even have some of the parts, that's how rare they said it was, having ceased production in the early 80s. In the end it cost a mint but is well worth it.

[754]

Cool set of matched AP masters...

Another method for the brakelines..might be what tintop meant, is drill halfway into lower tree, near the middle, then two holes from the bottom at about 45 degrees.. They must intersect with the first one. (Should counterbore the lower holes to get them flat )Tap them to 1/8NPT, and install 1/8NPT to AN-3 fittings, then make your lines.