Topic: 1977 CB750k restore project

[Restoration Fan]

In that price range, IKONs.

The cheapest IKON listed on their web site for Hondas is $400.  Is there a way to get them cheaper somewhere of which I'm not aware?

[dgilling]

I sure hope so. Not looking forward to spending $400.

The washer you show for the sprocket is much larger than mine.

As far as offset. My sprocket looks identical on both sides. I'm changing over to a 530 chain. Not sure if that makes a difference.

[Restoration Fan]

As far as offset. My sprocket looks identical on both sides. I'm changing over to a 530 chain. Not sure if that makes a difference.

Your sprocket has this type of a raised area on both sides?  I only ask because my K8 only has this on one side.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

In that price range, IKONs.

The cheapest IKON listed on their web site for Hondas is $400.  Is there a way to get them cheaper somewhere of which I'm not aware?

Damn. I bought mine 6-7 years ago and they were much cheaper then!

I also had to hunt down a US rep and special order them.

[dgilling]

Raised on both sides.  it looks identical other than writing. 

Front


Back

[Restoration Fan]

Awesome.  Sorry for creating more work for you to check on that.  But mine is only raised on one side.

One thought:  is that a new sprocket that you bought for the 530 chain?  Just wondering if that's the stock 630 front sprocket?

[dgilling]

It's a new sprocket for a 530 chain. I can't find the stock sprocket. I'm going to have Hondaman check it out.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

In that price range, IKONs.

The cheapest IKON listed on their web site for Hondas is $400.  Is there a way to get them cheaper somewhere of which I'm not aware?

Damn. I bought mine 6-7 years ago and they were much cheaper then!

I also had to hunt down a US rep and special order them.

If that's the case now, buy some Hagons or Progressives.

[dgilling]

I modified my own fuse box.  I bought one thinking it would fit better but it was actually pretty big.  I cut it down and used some plastic adhesive to put it back together.  I cut the wires shorter and soldered the leads to clean up the electrical box better. 

[dgilling]

I've been really busy on the bike.  The wife and fam are out of town this week so I've been staying up till midnight every night just going to town on everything I can. 

I've done a lot of work on the electrical.  I enjoy this part being an electrical engineer by trade.  I've got most of the box done.  I might get a different flasher so it fits better in the box.  I don't think this is the original flasher because it just doesn't fit on the tab where I think it goes.  It runs into the plastic fender.  I also just don't see where the diode goes so I just neatly put it in the middle, but it does have a rubber sleeve to mount somewhere.  Just not sure where. The PO also replaced the bullet connectors with different spade terminal connectors on the starter relay so i'll need to change those back to bullet to match the new harness. 



Stock Flasher?  Any suggestions for a good replacement or will just about any automotive flasher work?



I made new power and ground cables.  had some left overs from a car stereo install.  Big and nice.  I moved the frame ground connection to the bolt that holds the oil pan on.  I figured up there it has less of a chance for getting dirty and rusted from water.






seems like a really big jacket for just a few wires.



The new harness has these huge boots on them for the tail light side and for the 4 wires coming from the rear brake switch and the points, any idea why so big?  does something else go in here?

Right now i'm working on soldering the old bullet connectors to my new speedo gauge.  I bought some bullet connectors but they are actually one size bigger and I thought we had the tool at work but I guess we don't.  I'm getting a custom headlight bracket mount made at work by our machinist.  I can't wait to see it.  After I get that stuff done I'll work on modifying the headlight bucket.  the headlight I bought needs the hole larger so i can hide all the electrical stuff in there.  I'll need to install a new grommet too.  I'm sure they sell those at home depot or somewhere.

I got the tires mounted this week.  I paid someone to do that because getting them off was insane.  this was a huge step cause then I could get the baby on the ground.  I installed the wheels last night along with the rear brake, side stand, and center stand.  i still need to get the springs on the stands.  i was too tired to mess with those.  Anyone have close ups of center stand bolts?  mine has a washer on it that I'm just not sure about.  has a hoop on it for something but i'm not sure what.  looking at other pictures I can't find it but none are that good of detail. 







Wheels UP! can you tell the front is lowered?  I just moved the fork tubes up in the triple tree.  I have the old shocks on now and plan to buy new.  how do i measure to get even with the lowered front?

[dgilling]

I got the springs installed on the kickstands.  The side stand doesn't seem to go back as easy.  maybe I have the bolt too tight??

I got my bracket for my headlight and mounted it.  I have to drill out the hole in the back to make room for the harness connectors to fit.  I need to figure out my electrical issues though.  Things are really weird.  I never get a headlight, tail light works, press the horn and the brake light works better, turn signals only work if I press the rear brake..... I'm kind of surprised actually because the harness was kind of... just match colors and I feel like it is pretty much the same.



I know some people struggle to get the spring on the center stand.  I just used a punch and pulled it right in like this.  took about 5 seconds.  really simple. 



had to move the brake switch up because of my new headlight bracket.





considering trying to mount the plate like this to cover the bracket up.  I'll need to do some grinding. 



Headlight bracket made by a machinist at work, i'm super pumped on it. 



Here's the relocated switch



If I turn the Key to P, pretty much nothing works electrically.  that's the next challenge.  Things only work in the "on" position. 

[dgilling]

Calj I did do some ground checks and measured my resistance to a few places. I also sanded up my main ground. Most continuity checks I did were .007 ohms. I should probably check everyone though.

The headlight ground has a rivet on the bucket and I connected that to my green ground connections.

When I measure at the fuse box I don't get 12v so it makes me think it's the ignition switch. It does want to fall out the bottom when I push on it.

[dgilling]

.007 ohms is too high?

I do agree though about the horn grounding issue though.  I'll just go through things again.

[dgilling]

I'd say your DMM doesn't have the accuracy to measure to the 100th significant digit.  I'm an electrical engineer by trade and most leads right off the DMM (if the dmm is accurate enough) read around .005 OHMs so the fact that from my battery to my frame point is reading .007, to me, says its a very good connection. The ground could do it's purpose even if it was 5 ohms. Just my two cents though and I really appreciate all your help. 

I have a totally new harness, but some connections are old parts.  connector from the alternator, and connectors from the controls are old.  I did take all of them apart though and cleaned all contacts with a wire brush.

my wiring is easy to say how it differs from the current 77 setup.

1.) I have a points wire that was connected to the black and white wire of the coils (i have not connected that yet)
2.) I left out the turn signal buzzer
3.) I don't have actual turn signals hooked up yet and now that I type that I need to do that.  that should solve some things. but doesn't show why no headlight
4.) I have new mini tach and speedo gauges.  The speedo gauge has a ground wire for every light indicator on it.  I combined the turn, high beam, and illumination grounds to connect to green ground and i combined the neutral and oil and connected to black ground.
I also had to combine the left and right turn indicator wires from the left control because there is only one light on the mini speedo for turn signal indication. 

I also have one mystery wire.  it's a brown/white wire similar to the backlight for the speedo and tach lights.  It comes from my left control.  I posted a topic here.  some guys seem to think it's from a 76 control. 

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,146504.msg1667183.html#msg1667183

When measuring at the fuse box I get 12v at the main 15A fuse but I don't get voltage at the other two.  This is another reason I think it's in the switch because that's all that's between the fuses and the battery.  I did check the light straight to the battery and it works. 

looking at the diagram i don't really see how the path for the headlight to get it's voltage, can you explain that to me?

[dgilling]

I figured some things out last night.  I traced 12v in the ONi position.  With the key in this position BA is connected to IG.  IG connects to black ground.  I saw 12V at almost all black ground locations. Brake light lights up, Regulator black had 12v, horn works,  One spot I did not see it was on the flasher black connection.  maybe i have a bad connection there in the harness.  Neutral indicator light and oil pressure indicator light never light up accept for when I turn the key to off.  Then they flash. 

A couple of things I don't understand about the diagram:

1.) I do not understand how power actually get's applied to the headlight.  With the start/stop switch in the "free" position then ST1 (red/yellow) connects to HLi (blk/red).  the Black/RED wire goes to the fuse box and the red/yellow goes to the starter solenoid.  I did find my problem though, in my left handle switch I had poor contact on the Hi/Lo switch.  it was melted from before and I tried to repair it but the contact is not good enough so i will need to replace that. 

2.) I never get illumination lights but the tail light works.  I never get 12v on the white/brown wires.

3.) Things worked a lot better when i plugged in the old turn signals, however since my new mini gauges only have one turn indicator bulb, how do I wire both wires without a DPDT switch?  all my turn signals light up when I flip the switch to left or right.  and the gauge is at fault because it only has one indicator bulb.  Someone has to have figured this out before because its a common gauge to use.  And they don't flash, but I think that's because the voltage never gets there. 

4.)  I have a two prong flasher relay and two diagrams I look at show a three prong flasher and one in my clemer manaul shows a two prong.  what do i actually need?  seems like the gray wire would have to be used?

Since i'll need a new left turn signal I looked on parts-n-more and saw that  the 77 version has to be internally routed.  That makes me think i have a 76 version on my bike.  I already have handlebars and I don't care to internally route, any reason I should stick with a 76 turn signal control?

 

[dgilling]

I drew out the turn signals in a meeting today at work  If I just use some diodes I should be good. 

[dgilling]

I believe I solved all my electrical issues.  I got some diodes installed and my blinkers work correctly.  the flasher seems a little flaky so I'll probably order a new one of those or just grab one from the auto parts store.   Does any 2 prong 12V flasher work?  My brake light was wired wrong.  I got one of those cat-eye lights and yellow is ground, red is the brake light, and black is tail light.  My headlight switch, just isn't going to work, I tried to repair it lots of different ways but it was melted from before and just doesn't make good enough contact.  another member sent me a replacement one from parts-n-more.  I'm going to have to mod it myself to make it where the wires can run externally.  I haven't got it in yet but I'll post updates on that.  This really sucks because I spent a lot of time rebuilding those controls.  I also wasn't getting an oil light or a neutral light and someone on the forum pointed out to me that 12V comes from black, so I had my polarity reversed on the LED.  Once I flipped that they worked just fine.  The illumination lights also were not working for me, I retraced the schematic and couldn't for the life of me find where brown/white connected to black for 12V.  I went back to the old harness and it had a small jumper.  the new harness did not come with that so I just plugged it in and everything works fine now. 

20 cent diodes to keep all the blinkers from flashing at once. 





I got the exhaust installed, took me awhile to figure out I was trying to install the flanges backwards.  I actually had to get the wife's help on this one.  You need extra hands to hold all those things. 





Finally figured out the right direction of the spacer. 



I got the front brake caliper installed.  I need to change out the fluid in the master cylinder and install it next. 

[dgilling]

I had my machinist friend at work mod my front plate so it would work with my new bottom mount headlight bracket.  This looks much cleaner than the bracket alone.  I have a fork brace that I'm trying to keep, but I'm running into space issues since I lowered the front end some.  The brace hits the wire harness under all of this. 



I ran into an issue with the choke location.  Something I didn't think about when making the first speedo/tach bracket out of the old mount.  I'm making a whole new one.  it will look a lot like the one Carpy makes for these gauges.  I'll relocate the choke to where the OEM speedo bracket mounts to the triple tree.



I got a new set of control from another member.  I had to mod them to run the cables externally.



I was having horn ground issues, so I said screw and solved that problem  I borrowed a ground from the clutch switch.



I'm currently trying to solve throttle cable length issues.  My bars are much shorter than the originals.  The push cable seems to work but the pull is too long.  I've looked at getting the euro version but I'd rather buy local if there is a better alternative. 

I drilled two holes in my headlight bucket to hold all my wires.  I found some perfect grommets at the auto store.  I plan to paint this weekend and will post some pics then.  I also ordered a bobbed rear fender from Carpy.  I tried to mod mine but failed.   

Next I will try to mod the front fender.  Any tips? 

[Eydugstr]

dgilling - If it's any help, you can order custom length cables through motion pro.  It's a little pricey but the cables fit great.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/cables/

[dgilling]

I figured out a way to use the stock cable length and the run actually isn't that bad.  The cables have very free range of motion and the throttle is super smooth with a good pop back. 



Does the brake hard line run on the inside or outside of the fender?



I added an extra hole and increased the diameter size to account for the wires that need to go in the headlight bucket.  I have to remove the connectors to the get the wires through the holes.  I found a large grommet meant for a car PVC valve at the auto parts store and it works nicely for a cable path.  Over all I don't love the look of everything behind the headlight but I like the look fo the bottom mount.  I guess it's a trade off unless you get really crazy with simplifying the electronics.  I didn't want to get to crazy and wanted to keep all basic functionality. 







It's the same size as stock but looks bigger to me for some reason. 



I had some extra paint made from painting the bucket so I sparyed a few things that needed it.  the horn was pretty nasty so I cleaned it up and gave it some paint.



I'm looking for ways to clean up the wires as much as possible but it's tough.  a lot going on behind the bucket.  when I get my speedo bracket in things might look a  little better.  I still have to add the choke cable too.  from the side the headlight reminds me of the old WWII motorcycle look, which I can dig. 



These are the brackets I ordered from superbrightleds.com for the turn signals.  they were a pain to actually make work.  the bolt hole was smaller than advertised so I had to make it larger and they don't squeeze the fork tube hard enough on their own.  I added a small piece of rubber but when I do that the holes didn't line up very well.  I'll probably have to work on them some to get them tighter.  I didn't order the second though, as I forgot to increase the qty when ordering. 



next up is chopping the fender.  I'm thinking around the marker lines.  what do you guys think?  any tips on size or cuts? 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

your headlight appears larger due to the absence of the stock fork ears.

That and the fact that the tank is off, too, throws off the balance.

[Timindecaturga]

Do you know the part number on those light brackets or can you paste a link here? I need the same ones


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[dgilling]

Do you know the part number on those light brackets or can you paste a link here? I need the same ones


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Hey Timidecaturga, here is the link https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/work-light-accessories/stainless-steel-p-clamp-for-bar-mounts/1418/

I got the chrome 1 3/8 - 1 1/2 size.  The bolt on my turn signals is a 10mm bolt and it didn't quite fit the hole.  I had to drill out.  The clamp size will require some extra material for a tight clamp. 

[Timindecaturga]

Thanks just shat I need!

What size did you get?


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[Timindecaturga]

Ha never mind got it


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