Author Topic: 1977 CB750k restore project (Read 33950 times)

dgilling · « **Reply #125 on:** May 04, 2015, 09:26:11 AM »

I figured out a way to use the stock cable length and the run actually isn't that bad. The cables have very free range of motion and the throttle is super smooth with a good pop back.

Does the brake hard line run on the inside or outside of the fender?

I added an extra hole and increased the diameter size to account for the wires that need to go in the headlight bucket. I have to remove the connectors to the get the wires through the holes. I found a large grommet meant for a car PVC valve at the auto parts store and it works nicely for a cable path. Over all I don't love the look of everything behind the headlight but I like the look fo the bottom mount. I guess it's a trade off unless you get really crazy with simplifying the electronics. I didn't want to get to crazy and wanted to keep all basic functionality.

It's the same size as stock but looks bigger to me for some reason.

I had some extra paint made from painting the bucket so I sparyed a few things that needed it. the horn was pretty nasty so I cleaned it up and gave it some paint.

I'm looking for ways to clean up the wires as much as possible but it's tough. a lot going on behind the bucket. when I get my speedo bracket in things might look a little better. I still have to add the choke cable too. from the side the headlight reminds me of the old WWII motorcycle look, which I can dig.

These are the brackets I ordered from superbrightleds.com for the turn signals. they were a pain to actually make work. the bolt hole was smaller than advertised so I had to make it larger and they don't squeeze the fork tube hard enough on their own. I added a small piece of rubber but when I do that the holes didn't line up very well. I'll probably have to work on them some to get them tighter. I didn't order the second though, as I forgot to increase the qty when ordering.

next up is chopping the fender. I'm thinking around the marker lines. what do you guys think? any tips on size or cuts?

calj737 · « **Reply #126 on:** May 04, 2015, 10:08:27 AM »

your headlight appears larger due to the absence of the stock fork ears.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #127 on:** May 04, 2015, 02:00:03 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on May 04, 2015, 10:08:27 AM

your headlight appears larger due to the absence of the stock fork ears.

That and the fact that the tank is off, too, throws off the balance.

Timindecaturga · « **Reply #128 on:** May 04, 2015, 02:22:30 PM »

Do you know the part number on those light brackets or can you paste a link here? I need the same ones

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dgilling · « **Reply #129 on:** May 04, 2015, 06:31:23 PM »

Quote from: Timindecaturga on May 04, 2015, 02:22:30 PM

Do you know the part number on those light brackets or can you paste a link here? I need the same ones

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Hey Timidecaturga, here is the link https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/work-light-accessories/stainless-steel-p-clamp-for-bar-mounts/1418/

I got the chrome 1 3/8 - 1 1/2 size. The bolt on my turn signals is a 10mm bolt and it didn't quite fit the hole. I had to drill out. The clamp size will require some extra material for a tight clamp.

Timindecaturga · « **Reply #130 on:** May 05, 2015, 02:34:27 PM »

Thanks just shat I need!

What size did you get?

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Timindecaturga · « **Reply #131 on:** May 05, 2015, 02:34:55 PM »

Ha never mind got it

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dgilling · « **Reply #132 on:** May 06, 2015, 07:58:15 AM »

I got this beautiful bracket made by the machinist at my work (for Free!). He even got it anodized. Only mistake we made is that we made it slightly too thick. I had to find some smaller nuts and I still couldn't fit a lock washer on them. I just used some blue loctite though and called it good.

bolt just barely fits.

You can't see all of it but I routed the clutch switch down the insulation for the left control to make it look cleaner.

If I would have known how hard it would have been to organize all the cables and junk behind the headlight I probably would have simplified a lot of things. It's so hard to make that stuff look nice back there. I need to modify the chock bracket and relocate. after that I should have all the cables. I'm still waiting on my right turn signal bracket. Once I get that then I will button up the electrical and move on to starting the bike.

Getting close! all systems seem to be working correctly.

calj737 · « **Reply #133 on:** May 06, 2015, 11:35:06 AM »

This is about as tidy as things get with modern electronics, and it's still a rats nest! So don't fret about your front end!

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #134 on:** May 06, 2015, 07:25:35 PM »

Cal,
That's a beautiful wiring job. I see the M-unit back at the rear by the battery but is that rectangular unit in the middle the control module?

Ron

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #135 on:** May 06, 2015, 08:59:23 PM »

Quote from: Restoration Fan on May 06, 2015, 07:25:35 PM

Cal,
That's a beautiful wiring job. I see the M-unit back at the rear by the battery but is that rectangular unit in the middle the control module?

Ron

C5 Ignition?

calj737 · « **Reply #136 on:** May 06, 2015, 11:52:10 PM »

Thanks, but no, that's a Probe Engineering electronic ignition box. Pretty similar to the Dyna 2000. That bike is a buddy's that I've helped wire up. Doing another for a friend this weekend, and then hopefully finishing up mine. They all share oodles of MotoGadget gear and similar switches/gauges so it will be fairly repetitive wiring. Almost got it down to a science...

Best part about the M-Unit is the ability to eliminate the nest in the headlight. Only wire that run there are the 3 for the H4 plug. Makes for a much cleaner front end.

dgilling · « **Reply #137 on:** May 07, 2015, 07:30:47 AM »

I'd love to eliminate that nest but the goal is to just get done at this point. Maybe when I redo it again in 10-30 years

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #138 on:** May 07, 2015, 11:48:39 AM »

Cal,

Have you used the M-button wiring on any bikes. It looks like all the wiring goes into the connections of the M-button, and then a single fiber optic cable goes to the M-unit.

Don

calj737 · « **Reply #139 on:** May 07, 2015, 01:03:04 PM »

Yes, several. Correct about the single wire (it's not fiber optic though).

It's more awkward with clip ons but still advantageous.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #140 on:** May 07, 2015, 01:56:47 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on May 07, 2015, 01:03:04 PM

Yes, several. Correct about the single wire (it's not fiber optic though).

It's more awkward with clip ons but still advantageous.

Cal,

Do you prefer using the M-button or running all of the wires back to the M-Unit? And why (aside from the choice of bars)?

calj737 · « **Reply #141 on:** May 07, 2015, 03:26:30 PM »

For clip ones, I prefer straight wired. Allows me to keep the wiring from each side's switches in its own loom and return power. Then, they terminate at the m-unit. This eliminates the wiring from either side "crossing over" to the m-button and creating a jumbled mess.

For bars, centrally wired (internal, exiting under a clamp) the m-button is very convenient. Everything terminates at the bar, the button gets "tucked up inside" and only a single thin wire (24-26awg) carries to the m-unit. Still need to get the power looks forward, but that's pretty easy.

Truth be told, wiring the m-unit with or without the m-button isn't the jumble. It's the gauges, instrument lights, and electronic ignitions. These devices have a great deal of signal wires to crossover and that's where it gets messy.

The bike in the picture is Devin's Fox build. We had it fully wired and done Sunday PM. Went over Tuesday to do his shop bike, and while there, he told me some lighting wasn't working suddenly. After some diagnosis, it was easier to un-wire the darn thing and re-wire the m-unit looms and power looms. About 8 hours of "simplification" to straighten it all out.

The jumble occurred because he wasn't fully ready with the fab and assembly when the initial wiring was done. So kept having to "make space" for stuff and that complicated things. Plus, it's a 350 twin with no tray, and a wee little seat hump. (No real estate for electronics). So fully planned out, it was cleaner.

Actually installed the Reg/Rec in the seat tube (vertical hoop at rear of engine) and ran lots of wiring down thru it to conceal it. Goal was nearly invisible wiring anywhere. Even the rear brake switch wiring runs internal to the frame tube.

Sorry about the thread jack... You hate wiring? Hmmmm..... Try a few hours in my shoes.

dgilling · « **Reply #142 on:** May 07, 2015, 04:34:39 PM »

I actually enjoy the wiring part and getting things to work, I hate organizing.

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #143 on:** May 08, 2015, 11:22:55 PM »

Quote from: dgilling on May 04, 2015, 09:26:11 AM

Does the brake hard line run on the inside or outside of the fender?

I just sorted mine this evening. The hard line goes between the fender brace and the fork tube in order for the hard line/flex line junction to hang from the fender clip. The upper caliper bracket also goes between the fender brace and the fork tube to provide enough clearance for the hard line. Your fender brace is against the fork when the caliper bracket should be against the fork with the fender brace inboard of that.

From the manual:

dgilling · « **Reply #144 on:** May 10, 2015, 10:21:06 PM »

Well the bike started right up and sounded great. As soon as I hit the start button she purred like a kitten.

Bad part was the #3 carb was leaking gas out a screw near the top of the bowl. The gas leaked onto my engine and peeled the paint. I used duricolor engine enamel and figured the paint would be way more durable. I'm not sure why it didn't hold up to the gas and I'm not really sure how I should clean it up

The gas leaked out the screw on the intake side of the carb that faces the front of the bike. Not sure what to do about that either.

I'll post pictures of the damage tomorrow.

dgilling · « **Reply #145 on:** May 10, 2015, 10:35:32 PM »

Here you can see the screw where the gas was leaking and some of the damage below.

sighhhhhhh

So close... now so far from done.

mkoski · « **Reply #146 on:** May 11, 2015, 08:12:54 AM »

Thats a classic right there, leaking carbs ruining new paint. Not much you can do about that now.

Things are looking good man, I really like the gauge setup with that super-clean tach.

dgilling · « **Reply #147 on:** May 11, 2015, 08:27:20 AM »

How do you keep this from happening? and how do you cover it up? It seems like the paint would be way more durable then that. I feel like it should be totally cured by this point since I painted it months ago.

calj737 · « **Reply #148 on:** May 11, 2015, 08:33:11 AM »

Nearly impossible as most paints are fuel-resistant, not fuel-proof. If it was soaking on it unbeknownst to you for any length of time, it's going to probably release the paint.

Even with proper adhesion, it's not always going to withstand chemical exposure. To repair it, a light scuffing of the surrounding area, and a light respray is easy enough to cover it.

dgilling · « **Reply #149 on:** May 11, 2015, 08:41:49 AM »

Cal,

do you know why the carbs would leak here? I guess that's my bigger problem.

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Author Topic: 1977 CB750k restore project (Read 33950 times)