Then Wilbur explained the continuity test incorrectly?
I kind of thought the term "continuity" was self explanatory... i.e. "continuous" unbroken connection.
Check the meter first. In the "ohm" or "continuity" setting, touch the meter probes together and see if your meter will even test continuity. Most meters require a battery for this function, and if your meters battery is dead this function likely will not work.
The horn switch completes the circuit to ground, so activating the horn button should complete a continuous (continuity?) connection to ground.
Continuity doesn't require any activation from a switch, current does. The probes on either end seek each other and send a signal to and from. Your meter registers if it's received. Basically.
The current generated by the battery in the meter when testing "ohms" or "continuity".
Multimeter 102...
No, he was correct in orientation. He was indicating on how to test your light green at the switch for continuity to ground. I want you to test the black wire at the switch for power, and for continuity to the horn.
To check the light green wire, set the meter for "ohm" or "continuity" and touch one probe to one end of the light green wire in the headlight bucket and the other probe to the other end of the light green wire where it connects to the switch. This will tell you whether the light green wire is broken or not. Then continue to proceed with the aforementioned test for continuity across the switch itself.
There is no black wire at the horn switch, unless you are referring to the black wire from the ignition switch. To test the switched voltage (ignition switch) with the ignition switch on, the black wire at the horn should read 12v (or any black wire in the harness for that matter),
meter set to read DC volts, red
probe to black horn wire, or any black wire for that matter. I know, red to black is counter intuitive (black is hot, go figure). Then connect black
probe to ground (or any
green wire), and again, ignition switch on will test the voltage supply to the horn and numerous other circuits..
Read carefully. Electrical circuits are simple logic circuits... which means they aren't very understanding when wires are crossed!
Which also means
do not try to test for ohms or continuity on an energized circuit. You can fry the meter...
When testing for continuity you will want to make sure the ignition switch is off, and you can even disconnect the battery to be absolutely certain if you are unsure about any of the procedures described above, or in the link below:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0CE4QFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fnadp.sws.uiuc.edu%2Fcal%2FPDF%2FMultimeterUse.pdf&ei=98vJU67EJpLNsQSm1oGoCg&usg=AFQjCNFV6VPvPy0vTWBEGGc6gXk0KIJxjQ&sig2=GxFMhYD6kv1aElHubfXHhA&bvm=bv.71198958,d.cWc
