Topic: Palepainter's 750f project.. Al Fine'

[budman]

I think saving the right controls is fruitless as the rotary kill switch is not getting any continuity as well an intermittent starter button.  The light on off switch seems to be functioning properly.

The kill switch circuit with the relay on the diagram I sent you works great on my bike.

[palepainter]

Ok.  Got that far.  Bike ignition, points and could all lit up.  Lights and signals done.  Working on rear brake lights right now which initially are confusing me with dual switches.   It will start right now if I put gas in it.  Bit going to finish up wiring indicator and brake light this weekend..... hopefully.   Stole ignition off KZ project.  Hahaha. 

Thanks for all the willingness to  help fellas.  You guys rock.




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[budman]

Are you leaking?

[palepainter]

Are you leaking?

Ya.  I had the return lines off on lower right side until I replaced o rings today.  When I turned it over a few times, it puked a bit of oil that didn't drain out. 


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[palepainter]

What are you guys doing for valve cover breather when not running stock box?


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[budman]

What are you guys doing for valve cover breather when not running stock box?


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I've got a piece of 3/8" fuel line routed over the carbs, zip-tied to the back bone, run down the frame and cut off just above the chain...until I can figure out something better...or not.  The 3/8" fuel line wouldn't fit over the spout coming out of the valve cover so I warmed up the end with the heat gun and it slid right on.  I couldn't find any type of hose that had a 7/16 ID.

[palepainter]

Thanks bud.  Will dig through my snowmobile stash of fuel line. 

Maybe someone can help me understand this wiring diagram for a brake wiring diagram with two switches in it.  As I look at this, It appears that when both are engaged that it will feedback on itself and short out.  What am I missing here?

[palepainter]

The GR/Y wire carries power to the tail light when the switch is activated. The tail light is grounded separately. Unless yours is wired differently? You should have a solid BLACK wire at the switch (power) that is transferred to GR/Y. You can check that with a meter at the switch to make sure thats happening. You can also confirm the GR/Y is connecting to the proper wire color at your tail light (aftermarket, right?).

Some aftermarket tail lights want both the TAIL and BRAKE circuits powered to illuminate the BRAKE bulb. Not common, but I've seen it with modular LEDs and its a PITA.

Ya Cal.  I have spliced the G/y wire starting on the one side of the front pressure switch.  That then runs back and spits off into the one leg of the mechanical switch on rear brake.  The black one goes to power as well, but on a separate leg.  This is a LED with common ground and two hots in.  It appears that the light functions by adding more LED when brake circuit is engaged.  Pretty simple brake down. 

I do have to remind you that my schematic is far from stock.  I have one leg on breaker running lights.  The LED turn signals have very low draw.  Same as the rear light.  I have ignition on another leg on its own breaker as well.  I have an AUX circuit left over for who knows what at this point. 

Nothing on any of the switches is a power to ground....It is all power through switch.  So I feel like something is not right.  When both of the switches are engaged, it will,  The power on  both sides of the switches has to come from the same circuit, correct?

[palepainter]

Ok...Sitting here with a clear head.. I see what I need to do. 

[innovativems]

woo hoo!  glad you're almost done! 

[palepainter]

woo hoo!  glad you're almost done!

Very close.  I just fixed the brake light system.  I am too embarrassed to mention what I did wrong and threw up an issue.

[irish44395]

Thats me on a daily bases
Pete

[palepainter]

I thought I had electrical psychosis on this Honda...then this shows up today.  82 Suzuki GS1100....more electrical than NASA space shuttle.  Ran...Until my neighbor thought he would build a café racer.     200 and its mine.  Came with title.

[budman]

The two brake light switches are similar to parallel output on a dual coil humbucker.  Shouldn't hurt anything.

I found this photo of the original motorcycle with the fairing that I thought yours resembled.  I had never seen the original bike, only the Jeff Decker sculpture.

[palepainter]

The two brake light switches are similar to parallel output on a dual coil humbucker.  Shouldn't hurt anything.

I found this photo of the original motorcycle with the fairing that I thought yours resembled.  I had never seen the original bike, only the Jeff Decker sculpture.

HEHEHEHE.  Yes, exactly.  Humbucker is it.  I had it right when I wired it...but forgot to check the adjustment on the mechanical switch.... It played with my head, because I went right for the worst case scenario.    It is all wired, I just need to verify that I have the Alt/Reg/Rect hooked up properly. 


  I had not seen that photo before.  Just the sculpt as well.

[palepainter]

Ok. I think I'm ready to fire it up once new throttle and clutch cable are here.  I filled it with oils and all the new gaskets and seals are holding up to the 4.25 qts i threw in her today.  I disconnected coil and cycled oil for a while.  Oil pressure up.  Tomorrow I will put new plugs and get some gas for it.  Clutch cable and last few pieces here by Friday. 

I was surprised how easy it was to find a an oil filter locally. 

Took a good look at one of my next projects today. 

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[innovativems]

Fire that bad boy up!

[palepainter]

Fire that bad boy up!

Hey Shawn.  I have it all ready to go.  But I am going to patiently wait until Friday.   It is my birthday and I am taking the day off work load to enjoy a cruise through the countryside with my trusty tools. 

Today I bled out the front brakes and changed plugs.  Got gas in a can.  Ready to go.  Just waiting on clutch cable which should be here tomorrow.


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[palepainter]

Damn clutch cable has not shown up yet.   Grrrrrrrr.  I hate to throw on the old cable just to get my kicks.   It is fractured and frayed.

Installed new throttle assembly and adjusted cables. 

Fabricated license plate bracket and lighting for it. 




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[754]

The streamlined Knuck is the one ridden by Joe Petrali..set a record back in 36 or 37.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Damn clutch cable has not shown up yet.   Grrrrrrrr.  I hate to throw on the old cable just to get my kicks.   It is fractured and frayed.

Installed new throttle assembly and adjusted cables. 

Fabricated license plate bracket and lighting for it. 




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FYI - Drag Specialties now makes a license plate frame with an LCD integrated into the frame rail to illuminate the plate.

[palepainter]

Damn clutch cable has not shown up yet.   Grrrrrrrr.  I hate to throw on the old cable just to get my kicks.   It is fractured and frayed.

Installed new throttle assembly and adjusted cables. 

Fabricated license plate bracket and lighting for it. 




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FYI - Drag Specialties now makes a license plate frame with an LCD integrated into the frame rail to illuminate the plate.

  Ya...  Cha Ching.    This one cost me 2bucks. 

[palepainter]

Finished up the seating area today.  Found a clutch cable locally.   Put everything together added gas then hit the start button and VROoom.   




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[Godffery]

 Now, I would suspect a BOTM nomination coming soon.?!   

[RAFster122s]

Mike, so, is the paintjob offer on the table to sort the Suzuki GS wiring for you?
Do you think a paint job in trade for someone to have done your electrical for you still a fair deal to you?
Seems to me it is far more work to do all the hard work in the prep for paint so it comes out nice and stays nice.

Years ago, I have seen too many body repairs (done at good body shops that were not cheap) show up like a sore thumb where you can point to exactly where they used filler as the clear coat in that area would lose much if not all of the gloss where you could chalk an outline of the areas filled.
It would start being seen after a year to 18 months and easily seen from 15-20 ft away by 2 years.

I never understood how you could have a place do a body repair where some filler was required and they could do the job in less than a week.  The filler would still be hardening a week or more, even if it was in a warm shop or put in a booth with slightly elevated temps, (drying lamps not running full duty cycle like they would use to cure paint jobs so they could get the vehicle out of the booth for another paintjob...I am thinking 120F-140F bake... to get the plastic filler to fully harden and outgas any chemicals...close to all that it ever would. Or, if it is strictly a function of time for the cure.) To my knowledge they do not typically do, as they do not have the space in booths for that to be done and it is expensive to use the booth that way.  Granted this was stuff I was seeing done around 2000 and before.  Have materials advanced where that is no longer an issue? Is that a failure in not using a sealer that should have been done or was it just a failing of paint or body filler materials?
Even a coat of wax did not eliminate it from being visible as I am not sure if it was a combination of shrinking or outgassing when going through heating and cooling cycles or what caused it.

Sorry to go so far off the deep end...

Great job on the bike!  The clutch cable you ordered ever arrive?

April is going to be a tough month to compete with this likely on the blocks...or is it May that would be voted on in April?


David