Author Topic: 750F thread? (Read 165305 times)

david 750f · « **Reply #325 on:** July 07, 2010, 05:33:24 PM »

Got a nice Henry Abe (I think) rear rim off Ebay...

theriddler · « **Reply #326 on:** July 08, 2010, 01:20:31 AM »

Quote from: ktnexile on July 05, 2010, 11:56:50 AM

Quote from: theriddler on May 21, 2010, 05:55:14 AM
Hi again,

Just doing some finishing touches to polished aluminium tappet cover and tranny side cover & chain guard...
Any suggestions as to how to seal the aluminium surface to stop it going dull?

hello, did you receive any suggestions on this issue?
thanks

I'm staying with "naked" at the moment - I tend to agree with MCRider... This bike is hopefully never going to see harsh (as in environment!!!) riding conditions again, and I think I give it a close look over about once a week, so no problem with keeping them polished - is any type of polish OK? (I did get hold of a couple of clear 2 part spray cans if I decide to go that way - once used, they have a shelf life of 24hrs..), The only area left to look at now is the barrels, head & engine casings - it looks like they've been aluminium sprayed, not too bad but some signs of corrosion...

Freaky1 · « **Reply #327 on:** July 09, 2010, 05:24:49 AM »

If the clear you got is the K2 2 part clear, I think it is great stuff. I wouldn't think youd need to paint the clutch cover or anthing that is chrome, however the aluminum is not a bad idea. My chorme still looks good but the aluminum (tappet covers, passenger peg supports) is all dingy and dull but it will be coming off again this fall and possibly powdercoated anyway.

theriddler · « **Reply #328 on:** July 09, 2010, 08:35:13 AM »

Quote from: Freaky1 on July 09, 2010, 05:24:49 AM

If the clear you got is the K2 2 part clear, I think it is great stuff. I wouldn't think youd need to paint the clutch cover or anthing that is chrome, however the aluminum is not a bad idea. My chorme still looks good but the aluminum (tappet covers, passenger peg supports) is all dingy and dull but it will be coming off again this fall and possibly powdercoated anyway.

Yep they're the cans I've got - proXL 2k pro clear...

Yes - I was only meaning the Ally...

- my chrome seems to be pretty good...

oldhondarider · « **Reply #329 on:** July 09, 2010, 08:37:20 AM »

whenever I get the carbs cleaned and working again.... I hope to get back on the road.

bender01 · « **Reply #330 on:** August 06, 2010, 09:27:14 PM »

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=74022.0
Read this if you want a member to make some 77/78 750f side covers! Let him hear we need them. Id like two pair.

beks82 · « **Reply #331 on:** August 06, 2010, 11:28:11 PM »

here's my 76 750F. Just got it running and on the road today. PO jacked up the stock exhaust so I had to cut it off and run just headers. Friend of mine says he'll help me fabricate an exhaust so looking forward to that. Also going to try and find a new tank as this one is full of leaks and seems like there are cracks. The picture is after a rough polish of the engine and the forks and engine covers. Hoping to cafe it without buying a premade seat/tail. Want to really get my hands dirty on this one and learn as much as I can. Bike runs strong, although there is some stutter right at take-off. Need to find a left side cover and I think I can start to modify it.

Freaky1 · « **Reply #332 on:** August 07, 2010, 10:03:24 AM »

Nice looking bike for a project, good luck! If you are interested in changing the seat, be careful with the one you have, those go for a pretty penny and it's a nice way to cover some other costs.

beks82 · « **Reply #333 on:** August 07, 2010, 02:11:41 PM »

wow thanks for the tip. The seat is in surprising good condition no rips or tears of any kind. anybody have an idea for a smaller battery to hide all the electricals?

tweakin · « **Reply #334 on:** August 07, 2010, 03:47:02 PM »

Never posted my finished bike. 1977 750f

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #335 on:** August 07, 2010, 05:13:06 PM »

Nice bike tweakin....

Mick

bluesmoke69 · « **Reply #336 on:** August 07, 2010, 05:59:33 PM »

Hi guys sorry no pictures yet iphoto took a #$%* on me.LOL My question is I bought 1976 CB750f I would like to put diffrent wheel on it. I got some 1981cb750 wheels disks and calipers for free will the work on my bike any help wold be great. Also got a front wheel from 1978cb750f but no back wheel thanks Andy.

Ace · « **Reply #337 on:** August 09, 2010, 08:24:04 PM »

Does anyone put washers under the nuts that tighten the head down on the barrels? I didn't put the copper washers underneath as there was some debate in a thread last year about they may tend no to torque down properly with the copper.

Also, does anyone have pic of their engine pulled down and where exactly all the o-rings and seals go on a rather stock engine. I've just pulled the head and barrels off mine again trying to find oil leaks. Good news is that it's not leaking in the same place as last time. You can check if your penny washers are sealing by taking the spark plugs out and running your finger to feel the pucks. You can check 4 out of 6 and it is easier if the engine is out of the frame.

My copper head gasket was leaking, oil trails on it.

The bolts that hold down the rocker/tappet cover were the main cause I think. There are some of the holes that go straight through the head and mine leaked there. Bit of loctite wick in will hopefully fix that as it worked for the 4 studs that the cam towers bolt onto. Apart from that, I still have a bit of a mystery leak, might be coming from the sleeved cylinder studs....not sure. I can post some pics if people would like. 900cc of leaking engine oil...hooray.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #338 on:** August 09, 2010, 10:13:37 PM »

I thought my oil leak was from the rubber sealing pucks. After tearing it down I found relatively loose nuts on the studs and fairly pliable pucks. When I began removing studs I found 3 that were relatively loose compared to the others that did not want to come out. I believe that 25,000 miles of 812 abuse stretched the studs which allowed the nuts to loosen. I now have heavy duty studs to install along with the 900 kit and one of Gordon's frame kits that will allow me to retorque the head. I doubt very few people remove their engine to retorque, me included.

Flying J · « **Reply #339 on:** August 11, 2010, 10:46:12 PM »

Nice set of wheels for you F'ers. Sorry if somebody was trying to sneak in on these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-76-CB750F-Yokohama-Mag-Wheels-CB750-wheels-rims-/110571382039?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories#ht_500wt_977

MattFreeman · « **Reply #340 on:** August 12, 2010, 07:47:23 PM »

Hi guys.

I'm doing a inverted fork swap ala Industrial Cafe/Squirley on my '76F1. And I made a stupid mistake. I forgot to measure the original height if my bike with the oem fork.

Would any of you fine gentlemen with a F1 be willing to take a tape and measure your bike from ground to top of the upper tree with the bike standing upright? I would greatly appreciate it.

Gotta know where ya been to know where you're going...

Thanks in advance for helping an idiot down on his luck.

MF

bluesmoke69 · « **Reply #341 on:** August 12, 2010, 08:02:18 PM »

I measured to top of triple tree closest to head light 38 7/8" back side 38". MY bike is a 1976 CB750F. Hope this helps.

MattFreeman · « **Reply #342 on:** August 13, 2010, 05:31:10 AM »

Quote from: bluesmoke69 on August 12, 2010, 08:02:18 PM

I measured to top of triple tree closest to head light 38 7/8" back side 38". MY bike is a 1976 CB750F. Hope this helps.

Tons of help. Thank you.

bluesmoke69 · « **Reply #343 on:** August 14, 2010, 08:25:18 PM »

Here is a pictures of my 1976 CB750F.

Don R · « **Reply #344 on:** August 14, 2010, 10:12:43 PM »

There was some talk of an early F0 that came with a drum rear brake and a K frame, but the F model engine. Has anyone ever seen one? My bike was built in 6/75 but is clearly labeled a 76. I did not notice the model year until I titled it.

beks82 · « **Reply #345 on:** August 14, 2010, 10:31:33 PM »

hey anybody know tank compatability b/w the 76 f and other models? it almost looks like a hondamatic tank might fit. but any input would be great, tanks are getting real hard to find

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #346 on:** August 15, 2010, 10:19:38 AM »

Quote from: Don R on August 14, 2010, 10:12:43 PM

There was some talk of an early F0 that came with a drum rear brake and a K frame, but the F model engine. Has anyone ever seen one? My bike was built in 6/75 but is clearly labeled a 76. I did not notice the model year until I titled it.

News to me Don. Mine was built 1/75 and s/n xx1606.

ofreen · « **Reply #347 on:** August 15, 2010, 11:33:13 AM »

Quote from: Jerry Rxman Griffin on August 15, 2010, 10:19:38 AM

Quote from: Don R on August 14, 2010, 10:12:43 PM
There was some talk of an early F0 that came with a drum rear brake and a K frame, but the F model engine. Has anyone ever seen one? My bike was built in 6/75 but is clearly labeled a 76. I did not notice the model year until I titled it.

News to me Don. Mine was built 1/75 and s/n xx1606.

Might have been a prototype like that, but I highly doubt any production models came out that way.

2wheels · « **Reply #348 on:** August 15, 2010, 01:16:56 PM »

I changed sprockets on my F3.
They were stock 14 and 43.
I changed to the K sizes of 15 and 41. And a new chain of course, which is why I was changing sprockets in the first place.
I like 15 , 41 much better. Most of the roads around me are straight and flat at about 60 MPH. The bike rides much nicer now.

xfactor · « **Reply #349 on:** August 23, 2010, 02:17:49 PM »

Might have some decent rear brake pistons for a 750f1, figured id give you fellows first crack at it if they are in fact decent.

News:

Author Topic: 750F thread? (Read 165305 times)