For the boots, I haven't had the problem, but if I did, as a less permanent solution than super gluing them to the lowers, I'd try lining the rubber part that goes into the slot with some of that rubber paint you dip tool handles into to make a rubber grip. If I was brave enough, I might even take a flat head screw driver to try to deform the lip on the lowers enough to have little teeth sticking out of the slot to grab the boot.
But those are just some ideas...
Regarding the fork oil:
I've read some things about the inconsistencies of wt. in ATF. But I've also heard some argue that ATF is made much more consistently nowadays. I'd go with the Spectro brand fork oil (10-15 wt.). I think the stuff is like $8 a quart, and can fill up 2-3 sets of forks with that.
For amount, you can do this:
If fork is on the bike, put bike on center stand, and support front half with a jack. Remove fork caps and all spacers and springs inside. Remove front wheel and drain fluid from the bottom allen bolt that holds damper rod in place (pump fork a few times to make sure all fluid is out). Reinstall damper bolt, and use a tie-down or bungie chord to completely compress the forks all the way up. Fill each fork tube up with oil until the oil level is 5.5 to 6 inches from the very top of the tube. Remove the tie-down, and pump the forks a few times to work out any air bubbles; then completely compress the forks again to recheck level. Then, uncompress fork, put springs and spacers back in, and screw on the covers. Done
If fork is off the bike, just clamp the lowers in a vise, then let the uppers slide down into the lowers all the way. Fill with oil using procedure above. When reassembling, clamp the uppers in the vise, and let the lowers drop so you can put the guts back in.
