Topic: Sandcast #97 restoration

[markb]

I’m not going to be able to get much further until my polishing is done so I’m finally ready to get everything clear coated.  I had someone help me out with a lot of it.  I still had to dial it back a bit with the gray Scotchbrite.  I’m going to have it clear coated in two batches (engine covers and frame parts).  It’s easier for my painter that way.

I tried something new this time.  I screwed all the parts onto pieces of wood.  That way I can finish them up and clean them and they can be handled without touching them.  I think that will make it easier for the painter too.  Also I like to mask the areas that aren’t normally coated.  For the clutch cover I just used a beat up old adjustment cover.

[Greggo]

They look excellent, Mark.  That's the job I'm tackling this week, and I'm not looking forward to it.

[NobleHops]

That's a great idea re the wood Mark, especially with parts that cannot be replaced. I do wonder what your painter will think of it. May I ask you to share the details of the clearcoat when you've researched and settled on a product and process please? It's a conundrum we all face, to clearcoat or not. Would love to learn all I can about how you do it.

[MoMo]

to clearcoat or not clearcoat,
that is the question.
tis nobler in the minds of sohc members
whether to weather ye old parts or not.   

with apologies to Billy S


 

[markb]

Be careful, I don't want this thread to become too highbrow. 

I used to use some thing Eastwood's that was called Diamond Clear Extreme (I think) but it was really hard to work with and I don't think they have it anymore.  Now I've been using their Gloss Diamond Clear.  Here's a link:
http://www.eastwood.com/diamond-clear-gloss-set.html

It does have a few bad reviews and I've seen some complaints on the forum but I have been satisfied.  My covers are not super polished though.  They look pretty good in the pics but they are definately more of a brushed finish.  That's because they are "scuffed up" with the Scotchbrite.  And I clean them with acetone.  I wipe them until my cloth doesn't pick up any more black and then I clean them one more time.  Maybe that's why I haven't had any problems with sticking.  I have never had them yellow either but I don't think the covers will get to 300 degrees (unless there is something really wrong). 
I get the quart can and let my painter do it and he says it lays down real nice.  It doesn't seem to be affected by gas, oil or alcohol.

[NobleHops]

to clearcoat or not clearcoat,
that is the question.
tis nobler in the minds of sohc members
whether to weather ye old parts or not.   

with apologies to Billy S


 

That was awesome 

[MoMo]

to clearcoat or not clearcoat,
that is the question.
tis nobler in the minds of sohc members
whether to weather ye old parts or not.   

with apologies to Billy S


 

That was awesome 

Thanks Nils,  one of those spur of the moment thoughts that came in a flash...Larry

[markb]

I’ve been pretty busy but I was able to reach a major milestone.  I finally have all my polishing and clear coating done!  I really wanted to finish the whole bike by summer (I’m starting to realize it’s not going to happen) but for sure I wanted this done.  This will make it easier to work on a little bit here and there.  I even threw in a couple of extra parts. 

[NobleHops]

How did it work out screwing the parts to the wood?

[MCRider]

Very nice looking finish!

[750K]

Beautiful pile of polished and cleared goodies!

[markb]

How did it work out screwing the parts to the wood?

That worked great.  Easy to handle for polishing, cleaning and spraying without worrying about touching them.  Of course that wasn't an option for the frame parts.

[greenjeans]

I'm taking that great tip and using it.   Mark continues to be my hero.  I can not wait to see this bike in person one day.

Ever thought where you will unveil it ?    A work like that needs to be seen.

[Greggo]

How many hours would you ballpark all that polishing, Mark? 

[markb]

Ever thought where you will unveil it ?    A work like that needs to be seen.

Not yet. 

How many hours would you ballpark all that polishing, Mark? 

That's a good question.  Not counting the hours spent on repairing the alternator cover and brake panel I probably have well over 40 hours into it and I actually had someone polish some of it for me.  A lot of it was hand sanded first and all of it I had to finish myself to get just the look I want and then there is the masking and cleaning. 
I really don't want to know.  No wonder I'm glad it's done. 

[Greggo]

That's a good question.  Not counting the hours spent on repairing the alternator cover and brake panel I probably have well over 40 hours into it and I actually had someone polish some of it for me.  A lot of it was hand sanded first and all of it I had to finish myself to get just the look I want and then there is the masking and cleaning. 
I really don't want to know.  No wonder I'm glad it's done. 

Ha, I only ask because I'm not done with mine yet.  How high do you go with the sandpaper grits?  Do you go up to 1K? 

I really have to say that yours look great.  I'm not sure I'll be able to match that quality...very nice work!

[markb]

Yes, 1000 is about as high as I go.  Mainly I try to get the gouges and scratches out.  Then I have them polished and then dial them back with 7448 light grey Scotchbrite to get a brushed look.  It takes some practice to get the lines just right.  Then you have to clean them right away or they start tarnishing.  I use acetone.  You can't touch them with bare hands either. 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Yes, 1000 is about as high as I go.  Mainly I try to get the gouges and scratches out.  Then I have them polished and then dial them back with 7448 light grey Scotchbrite to get a brushed look.  It takes some practice to get the lines just right.  Then you have to clean them right away or they start tarnishing.  I use acetone.  You can't touch them with bare hands either.

I applaud the efforts that go into a restoration, but this is the precise reason I painted over my polished cases, after having to repeatedly polish the engine after my initial rebuild.

[Retro Rocket]

Do you guys have "wet blasting" in the States..?  This is a guy thats not far from me that does wet blasting, the process seals the aloy and allows it to remain looking great for years, I have see bikes that have had the engines done and not touched for years and they looked great... Click on the sandcast engine in the 2nd link and see that slide show...


http://www.wetblasting.net/

http://www.wetblasting.net/apps/photos/

[markb]

Do you guys have "wet blasting" in the States..? 

I believe that's what we call vapor blasting here.  The parts look great but not as correct as I'm looking for.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Do you guys have "wet blasting" in the States..? 

I believe that's what we call vapor blasting here.  The parts look great but not as correct as I'm looking for.

Is vapor blasting and soda blasting the same??

[Retro Rocket]

Do you guys have "wet blasting" in the States..? 

I believe that's what we call vapor blasting here.  The parts look great but not as correct as I'm looking for.

Quote from the site

We use a revolutionary low pressure Wet Blasting system ( Not Vapour Blasting )

So no, its not vapor blasting, completely different...   The finish in the pictures looks almost painted silver, its actually a nice semi bright alloy finish very similar to stock appearance, apparently its hard to show it in photo's... Since nothing is added to the alloy you can imagine what the alloy actually looks like in person..

From the site

This is a Low Pressure Wetblast ,

but leaves a surgically clean surface unlike High Pressure

 Vapour Blasting , which actually leaves shards of glass

 embedded in the alloy, which doesn't fit well with engine

 rebuilds.The finished product also does not fingerprint or

 corrode ( except low grade alloys ) as I also burnish the

 alloy ( ie Microscopically Shot Peen ) in the blaster.

The result is a beautiful lustre that even oil won't stain!

All fine detail remains as is, including important tolerances in

bearing housings, inside carbies etc. I have been riding bikes

 since the sixties and appreciate what I'm working with,

 rest assured your engine parts are treated as if they were my

 own, and when it comes to finish, there is no second best!

[Old Scrambler]

Very.......Very..........Very Nice alloy finish

Mark.........you may want to talk to the SCO boys about a 'showing'  ceremony.  This year is the 45th anniversary of your bike's introduction...aka...birthday.  The VJMC/AMCA show at the St. Paul Fairgrounds in June of each year is a possibility. You would be a prime candidate for a magazine article.........MOTORCYCLE CLASSICS may be interested.  Maybe GODZILLA will pay you a visit as he travels the country.

I don't know what the AMA museum management is up to these days.........but it sure was a fun time when 2-dozen or so bikes and owners were together at VMD in Ohio..................And of course, right in my back yard...........the ROCKER BOX FESTIVAL is now moving to ROAD AMERICA in conjunction with the AHRMA races in June. That event also hosts a MOTORCYCLE CLASSICS show. Last year we had a half-dozen CB750s parked for a while at the VJMC booth. 

[Tews19]

Not to hijack, but Dennis, Rocker box for sure will be at Road America for sure in June?

[markb]

Mark.........you may want to talk to the SCO boys about a 'showing'  ceremony.  This year is the 45th anniversary of your bike's introduction...aka...birthday.  The VJMC/AMCA show at the St. Paul Fairgrounds in June of each year is a possibility. You would be a prime candidate for a magazine article.........MOTORCYCLE CLASSICS may be interested.  Maybe GODZILLA will pay you a visit as he travels the country.

That's sounds like a great idea but despite my intentions of having it done this spring, it ain't gonna happen.  There's always the 50th.