Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build

[DaveBarbier]

Looks like I'm done...didn't fire it up yet because it's late. But I turned it on and so far everything's good! Headlight doesn't turn on yet. Not sure if it only will once the bike is on. Even if I toggle the headlight switch it still won't come on. Will test that tomorrow. I also tried the start button  and there seems to be a delay before it tries to start it. Not sure if that's normal or not. A quick tap does nothing, I have to hold it for like half a second. Could be a feature.

[DaveBarbier]

Strange, it appears that the new LED headlight from Cognitomoto is bad. I took it out of the bucket and touched the leads to the battery and nothing. Nothing for low beam and nothing for high beam. Bad luck, or did something go wrong and it burned the headlight out instantly...without it ever coming on. The little LED lights on the m-unit are lighting up so it thinks the headlight is on.

EDIT: Ok, so it actually works. The headlight comes with one of those H4 connectors hardwired in. I removed it and used my own terminals like so:


The thing is, the green isn't ground...that's the low beam. The WHITE is the ground. What the hell?

[Trad]

Really nice work on the wiring; very tidy. I have one of those LED bulbs from Devin too. It didn't want to work with the 3 port plug?

[DaveBarbier]

Really nice work on the wiring; very tidy. I have one of those LED bulbs from Devin too. It didn't want to work with the 3 port plug?

Thanks. It very well could have been oriented right in the plug but I didn't want to use it. I felt it was more direct to go from the wires coming in the head light bucket right to the headlight. The way it came it would have the wires coming in to the bucket, then plugged into a plug pigtail then plugged into the headlight plug. I just omitted some connections. I must have missed how the plug was wired. Weird they have the white as ground and the green as low beam though. Maybe mine is just a fluke.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I have one of those bulbs in my 550.  Very satisfied with the brightness.

[DaveBarbier]

That bulb has a different wiring scheme (like you discovered). BLU-Hi, WHT-GRND, GRN-LO

Your start button should fire immediately. What handlebar controls are using?

That's funny it uses the same colors but they switch them around.

Using the three button m-Switch. I'll test it today again, maybe I need to press more firmly or something.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Probably its got to do with how you wired it. I seem to recall you jumped the grounds between the buttons internally on the switches. Did you also align the poles of each switch to insure they don't contact the bars and short out? And double-check that the terminal screw of each switch is VERY snug. (Hard to do with those mini little buggers!)

I struggled with that bulb too on a buddy K8 (I'm in the midst of wiring it as we speak). I had called Devin asking him the WTF, you sold me a bad bulb? He giggled and said he recalled a similar issue and swapped wires until it worked. Oddly, when I wired his last 2 bikes, he used an LSL light so I hadn't encountered the issue for him. Sell it, don't use it, I guess 

Funny. And he uses but doesn't sell the LSL, at least yet.

[DaveBarbier]

I'll open that switch and see what's up. Yes, all screw terminals are aligned as not to short out. I did tighten the  terminal screws, but I'll check that again. These tiny things can't use that much torque!

Funny about the bulb. All's good now though. Threw me for a loop.

Oh, and yes, I did jump the grounds so there's one ground wire coming out...maybe I'll have to run another one.

[DaveBarbier]

Opened up that switch and all seems well. Resistance from the switch signal wire to the m-unit is .0-.2 ohms and switch ground wire to m-unit ground is the same value. Switch itself (tested in my hand with my multimeter) is .0-.1 ohms. Switch feels fine when pressed. I'm just going to put it back together and test it out again. Maybe my starter solenoid is funky...I did open it up earlier and flip the copper bar upside down as Hondaman mentioned.

[DaveBarbier]

Finally got out for a ride. It was awesome. I loved setting up the motogadget, too, it was a breeze. The start button still doesn't fire immediately but I think that's supposed to happen. Since the start/kill is the same switch and kill is a quick double press I have to think that there is a slight delay built in before the starter activates just to give yourself time for the double press.

Also, I need to change the positions of the switches. Whoever has an m-unit with  Motogadget switches (or any momentary switches for that matter) what's your setup that works best for you? I think I'm going to change it up to have both left and right turn and the light high/low on the left side and horn and start/kill on the right.

[DaveBarbier]

Thanks Cal. I think I must have hands of a baby...or Frodo Baggins. While riding I just can't comfortably reach the switches on the right bar.

In more detail:
Right side:
Top-start/kill
Bottom-horn

Left side:
Top-left turn
Bottom-right turn
Front-light high/low

I'm also using the auto cancel after 10 seconds but I need to get used to it. I find myself looking down to make sure it's off, ha.

[DaveBarbier]

Obviously, you can configure their operation however suits you, but I find the Turn R/L very intuitive when oriented to either side. I became very reliant upon this orientation after riding BMW bikes for decades. You do know also that a second press of the indicator will cancel it manually?

Frodo Baggins has an M designation on his license? Sheesh! That explains those CT drivers 

Must have gotten the M after destroying the ring. Would have made his journey much quicker (<— nerd talk)

It is very intuitive and I wanted that setup, but even after one short ride I could tell it wouldn't work just because I can't comfortably reach it. And yup, I actually might not use the auto cancel and just tap again to shut them off. We'll see. I'm keeping a length of wire under my seat to use to configure it while out and about.

I still am really thinking about trying to find a way to hack this thing and upload my own settings. If I do, I'll keep it to myself and never tell you guys .

[DaveBarbier]

Will do when I get a chance. But it's as close to the throttle as possible. I think it's just bridging the gap of the throttle perch while wearing gloves which is the problem.

[DaveBarbier]

Shoot a picture of your right side bars- I'm curious how yours is assembled.

Here are a couple pictures.

[Restoration Fan]

Does your hand not hit that mirror when you twist the throttle hard?

[RAFster122s]

That's a big gap between the grip and the m-button. No wonder why it is a stretch to reach keeping your hand on brakes or throttle.  I would move the horn to the left side personally, I think it would be safer when you want to blow the horn and brake & downshift.

David

[DaveBarbier]

Does your hand not hit that mirror when you twist the throttle hard?

Nope, it does look close but my hand has more than enough space to move unimpeded.

[DaveBarbier]

That's a big gap between the grip and the m-button. No wonder why it is a stretch to reach keeping your hand on brakes or throttle.  I would move the horn to the left side personally, I think it would be safer when you want to blow the horn and brake & downshift.

David

Ok good. Glad you said that it looks far. Maybe for a size reference I should have taken a shot with my gloved hand on it, oh well.

I guess it's a trade off...I want high/low and turn signals to have easy access. Start/kill isn't as important while I'm riding so that's good on the right. Horn is also important but it'll have to go on the right as well.

I'll just have to test the new setup out and see how it works. Simple as that.

[DaveBarbier]

I subscribe to the same way of thinking regarding the horn. But obviously there are times when it's really important to use it...hot girls on the road that I want to make uncomfortable being one.

I had a female friend measure my hand and I took a picture. Yeah, it's a little small but not really. I wonder why these controls are hard to operate.

[RAFster122s]

I have one of the air horns for my bike, haven't installed it yet. It is one of the loudest out there.
the tone is piercing and unlike typical horns. I used to have Hella air horns on one of my cars, it had the dual trumpets and it got one's attention as well.

David

[DaveBarbier]

You know what they say about the size of your hands relative to other appendages... Sorry for your girlfriend unless that is she in the picture?

We make it work, haha.

[DaveBarbier]

I have one of the air horns for my bike, haven't installed it yet. It is one of the loudest out there.
the tone is piercing and unlike typical horns. I used to have Hella air horns on one of my cars, it had the dual trumpets and it got one's attention as well.

David

Get yourself one of these if you really want to be heard.

[DaveBarbier]

So I finally have time to change the switch positions.  But CRAP, one of the little tiny baby screws for the terminal broke off while I was tightening it. Anyone know what size these things are and what thread pitch?

I'm measuring 1.5mm in thickness (M1.5) and 3mm in length not including head. I see these can come in various thread pitches.

[RAFster122s]

Did it appear to be coarse thread or fine thread? Was it the head of the screw or terminal?
I would disassemble the switch from the wires and take it to the hardware store where I could match it.
If the screw head broke then I would first get the old screw out. A drop of superglue with most of it wiped off on an allen wrench would be a way to tack it to the screw that is there. But, if you sheared the head that probably won't work.  A micro sized drill bit might give you a hole where you can get it to back out.
If you have steady hands and a fine cutoff wheel in a dremel could slot the screw but you are going to cut into the screw boss where the screw taps into the switch.

[DaveBarbier]

Thanks Dave, I don't have a hardware store close by that carries screws that small. I could find a place though.

I will try a tiny reverse drill bit. I'm sure that'll work. BUT I'm considering leaving it. For these terminals the head is doing nothing once it's installed. The screw tip is bottoming out on the wire ferrule and not the head bottoming out on the terminal post if that makes sense. They could have just as easily been Allen set screws without a pan head.