Topic: Anyone have experience with those $35-$40 electronic ignitions I see on eBay?

[That70sGuy]

They are listed as DS1-2 units, but are about 75% cheaper than Dynatek sells them for and don't have the blue Dynatek label, so I assume they are cheap knock-offs. FWIW there are a lot of positive reviews in the seller feedback, but not sure how much to trust those. Let me know if you have tried them and how it worked out. Thanks

[bryanj]

They work but no idea yet on reliability and dont fit some of the 400 foursas they had 2 different makes of advancer

[Mark1976]

   My experience is don't buy 'em. Ya get what ya pay for....

[grcamna2]

Following

[BenelliSEI]

I’ve used a couple on bikes (cb750K7/8) I sold last year (the new owners wanted rid of points). Checked over both bikes, late Fall, and everything was as I left it and working fine….

[newday777]

They are listed as DS1-2 units, but are about 75% cheaper than Dynatek sells them for and don't have the blue Dynatek label, so I assume they are cheap knock-offs. FWIW there are a lot of positive reviews in the seller feedback, but not sure how much to trust those. Let me know if you have tried them and how it worked out. Thanks

On what bike?

[Don R]

 I might decide based on how far from home I ride and if I have room to carry a spare. On my gl1000 I put a dyna on it and also took the points plate along when I travelled a thousand miles away from home.
 I have a close to home rider with an old Pamco that I got for free.

[That70sGuy]

1978 CB550K

[newday777]

1978 CB550K

You need to be sure your charging system is working properly and get the bike running properly on points before you decide to put on electronic ignition so you know the charging will keep up with the extra draw on the system.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Don't know but I saw left and right hand controls for around $25. Looked good in pictures.

[denward17]

Don't know if they are the same units you are referring to, but I have a couple of the cheap knockoffs, 1 in  550 and 1 in a 750.

Both bikes run good, but don't have a lot of miles or time to comment on longevity, about 1900 miles on the 750 and about 600 on the 550.

I think mine have the letters IQ on the pickup, if I recall.

[rotortiller]

I bought a cheap one back in 2017, everyone said it was Asian junk. Mine is still running strong and has outlasted a 'made in the USA unit' I had, by years so far. Most of the respective stuff bought in the USA is actually produced in China, boxed up and rebranded. The reason for the discounted direct marketing figure is the removal of leaching steps or vendors. Some Aussie, Yanks and Euro blokes are using the DS1-2 inexpensive unit and seem happy enough. It is not so much that 'you get what you pay for' as it is how many levels are skimming and  adding up through mark ups. North American labour is too expensive to build a comparable product. The link below is kinda like the "Itchy and Scratchy Show" and at the very least I hope you find it entertaining, towards the end page 10 or so there are some guys that have the ignition you are considering.    http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,158702.200.html

[Rayzerman]

I'd recommend the Hondaman unit, has anyone had one fail ever?  At least there are options should it ever.  Call me happy.

[Deltarider]

1978 CB550K

You need to be sure your charging system is working properly and get the bike running properly on points before you decide to put on electronic ignition so you know the charging will keep up with the extra draw on the system.

In Europe all kinds of EI's have been fitted on CB500/550s. There are NO reports of compromising the charging system's output. However I see no advantage of systems which have an increased dwell (duty cycle). On the contrary: with the IGN left on, it may result in a fried coil. As proved by thousands of us, the CB500/550s charging system is adequate for running both an EI as well as a 60/55W H4. If the charging system would have had this shortcoming, Honda would certainly have modified it. I've looked it up, the system remained the same throughout all the years 71-78, even for the models that standard came with the 60/55 Watts H4 and even for the CB500P shown below.
Tip1: fit a switch to bypass that headlamp-always-on wiring US models had.
Tip2: If your rides are mostly in cities, consider fitting a break relay thus, that the headlamp extincts and the little pilot bulb lights, when neutral light is on, like when waiting at a traffic light.
Tip3: If your model still has the next to useless sealed beam, consider replacing it by a European style H4, like Cibié, Marchal, Hella or Bosch. For safety I recommend to go yellow.
I should add that where I live, folks usually ride bicycles for most distances and certainly those for up to 5 miles. I never start my motorcycle for distances under 15 miles. As a bonus my OEM exhausts live at least 75.000 km. 

[newday777]

1978 CB550K

You need to be sure your charging system is working properly and get the bike running properly on points before you decide to put on electronic ignition so you know the charging will keep up with the extra draw on the system.

In Europe all kinds of EI's have been fitted on CB500/550s. There are NO reports of compromising the charging system's output. However I see no advantage of sytems which have an increased dwell (duty cycle). On the contrary: with the IGN left on, it may result in a fried coil. As proved by thousands of us, the CB500/550s charging system is adequate for running both an EI as well as a 60/55W H4. If the charging system would have had this shortcoming, Honda would certainly have modified it. I've looked it up, the system remained the same throughout all the years 71-78, even for the models that standard came with the 60/55 Watts H4 and even for the CB500P shown below.
Tip1: fit a switch to bypass that headlamp-always-on wiring US models had.
Tip2: If your rides are mostly in cities, consider fitting a break relay thus, that the headlamp extincts and the little pilot bulb lights, when neutral light is on, like when waiting at a traffic light.
Tip3: If your model still has the next to useless sealed beam, consider replacing it by a European style H4, like Cibié, Marshal, Hella or Bosch. For safety I recommend to go yellow.
I should add that where I live, folks usually ride bicycles for most distances and certainly those for up to 5 miles. I never start my motorcycle for distances under 15 miles. As a bonus my OEM exhausts live at least 75.000 km. 

Get off your soapbox

[Deltarider]

1978 CB550K

You need to be sure your charging system is working properly and get the bike running properly on points before you decide to put on electronic ignition so you know the charging will keep up with the extra draw on the system.

In Europe all kinds of EI's have been fitted on CB500/550s. There are NO reports of compromising the charging system's output. However I see no advantage of sytems which have an increased dwell (duty cycle). On the contrary: with the IGN left on, it may result in a fried coil. As proved by thousands of us, the CB500/550s charging system is adequate for running both an EI as well as a 60/55W H4. If the charging system would have had this shortcoming, Honda would certainly have modified it. I've looked it up, the system remained the same throughout all the years 71-78, even for the models that standard came with the 60/55 Watts H4 and even for the CB500P shown below.
Tip1: fit a switch to bypass that headlamp-always-on wiring US models had.
Tip2: If your rides are mostly in cities, consider fitting a break relay thus, that the headlamp extincts and the little pilot bulb lights, when neutral light is on, like when waiting at a traffic light.
Tip3: If your model still has the next to useless sealed beam, consider replacing it by a European style H4, like Cibié, Marshal, Hella or Bosch. For safety I recommend to go yellow.
I should add that where I live, folks usually ride bicycles for most distances and certainly those for up to 5 miles. I never start my motorcycle for distances under 15 miles. As a bonus my OEM exhausts live at least 75.000 km. 

Get off your soapbox

Newday, with all respect and FYI, I have not been more on any 'soapbox' than others here, that have been echoing this myth. But as always, I welcome substantiated criticism. Do you think you can manage without calling anyone a 'buffoon'. Oh and btw, I still welcome your substantiation for any benificial effect by adding oil to the gasoline. I have asked around: apart from some - some, not all - who race vintage bikes, that may add a spoonful of ricinus oil to a tankfill of gasoline, the practice of adding oil is absent here. For a reason.

[rotortiller]

has anyone had one fail ever? 

Yes.

[MauiK3]

I think Hondaman's "points saver" system is a better solution. Very compatible and of course, made right and reliable.

[rocket johnny]

i too have honda mans unit .   easy to install and bullet proof .  works great and made in lakewood co usa !!

[ofreen]

I reckon if the Dyna-S I installed in April 1990 142,000 miles ago ever craps out I will try Hondaman’s offering.

[willbird]

I bought one and it sits in a box. I should rig up a simple way to spin and and hook it up to set of coils...let run for a few days.

[scottly]

towards the end page 10 or so there are some guys that have the ignition you are considering.    http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,158702.200.html

Thank you.

[HondaMan]

I reckon if the Dyna-S I installed in April 1990 142,000 miles ago ever craps out I will try Hondaman’s offering.

Ah, you have one of their old ones, made after 1990, I presume? I have removed 4 of their later ones from the 1999-onward era, which all were shorted on one side or the other.

[newday777]

I reckon if the Dyna-S I installed in April 1990 142,000 miles ago ever craps out I will try Hondaman’s offering.

Ah, you have one of their old ones, made after 1990, I presume? I have removed 4 of their later ones from the 1999-onward era, which all were shorted on one side or the other.

So is the Dyna III previous to 1990?

[cfairweather]

I have purchased many of the cheap Dyna Clones for the CB750 and GL1000 and have had good luck with them. 

[PeWe]

I ordered 2 of these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155231948547?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5tYHHEJBQ9C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=XgCEg0CPSya&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Have not tested yet. Looks like my Dyna-S I use with Dyna 5ohm coils (black).
There is a thread about these. The Dyna 5 ohm coil knock offs too. Have not tested those either. Bike project goes slow.

Charging OK on both my CB750. I have a voltmeter installed between gauges so I see how it works and not while riding.
Many test rides and adjustments of 3  regulators to keep charging above 14V, not over 14.5 V which can happen.

 I got sudden wild charging over 16V when core gap was over 0.9mm.
I have tested 3 regulators. 0.8-0.85mm  core gap.
Too tight, low charge or almost nothing.
Over 0.85mm risk to cook battery and electronic ignition at risk.
1.5-2 hours ride needed. I have seen charging go wrong after +1 hour on country roads.

Honda manual say 0.6-1.0mm.

[willbird]

I ordered 2 of these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155231948547?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5tYHHEJBQ9C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=XgCEg0CPSya&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Have not tested yet. Looks like my Dyna-S I use with Dyna 5ohm coils (black).
There is a thread about these. The Dyna 5 ohm coil knock offs too. Have not tested those either. Bike project goes slow.

Charging OK on both my CB750. I have a voltmeter installed between gauges so I see how it works and not while riding.
Many test rides and adjustments of 3  regulators to keep charging above 14V, not over 14.5 V which can happen.

 I got sudden wild charging over 16V when core gap was over 0.9mm.
I have tested 3 regulators. 0.8-0.85mm  core gap.
Too tight, low charge or almost nothing.
Over 0.85mm risk to cook battery and electronic ignition at risk.
1.5-2 hours ride needed. I have seen charging go wrong after +1 hour on country roads.

Honda manual say 0.6-1.0mm.

Thinking about a really simple unobtrusive voltage monitor that would not detract in any way from the stock appearance that some are striving for. Braoin storming is good but one idea that popped up quickly was a way to hack the high beam indicator bulb to be multi function. Again quick brain storm but maybe it could slow blink for low voltage, fast blink for high. And make this happen even if you were riding on high beam :-). The wiring to do that with a simple microprocessor could easily hide inside the headlight shell :-).

Bill

[madmtnmotors]

I have some small, single bulb RGB leds that come with a bezel that change color based on voltage. I'll see if I can find some info on them.

[PeWe]

I started with a LED that change color if charge too high of low. Green when ok.
Slow flashing green when ignition is off. It sit behind the voltmeter, not visible on the photo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/200826330214?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Z99PTdcuRNm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=XgCEg0CPSya&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Both my bikes have this.
But for best supervision when finding the best adjustment a voltmeter was needed. I measure voltage over the coils. I verify with a multimeter measure over battery in the garage up to 4000rpm. It can differ a little depending on connectors.
0.1-0.3V,  good to know.

That can be used when finding the perfect setting. Not reading 14.5V when revving 4000rpm and more in the garage. It does not matter if battery is just fully charged. It will increase a little during the ride.

Something like this between speedo and tacho
https://www.ebay.com/itm/195364346616?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hakcor4nqm6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=XgCEg0CPSya&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I rounded off the corners with a file.


Edit:
My K6 has the LED visible just a little. It sitt rather loose, I can pull it up higher.
Orange when low, green in ok area which can be seen. The tip of led just over the voltmeter to the left.

[grcamna2]

That's a nice voltmeter;should come 'standard' on every bike.

[willbird]

Yes that looks pretty good :-).

Bill

[PeWe]

Very useful.
Easy to look at it a little bit too much when in the charge adjusting-validation mode

[That70sGuy]

Thanks. I’m going to give it a try and post the results after I run it for a while.

[grcamna2]

I have some small, single bulb RGB leds that come with a bezel that change color based on voltage. I'll see if I can find some info on them.

I'd like to know about it.

[HondaMan]

I ordered 2 of these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155231948547?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5tYHHEJBQ9C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=XgCEg0CPSya&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Have not tested yet. Looks like my Dyna-S I use with Dyna 5ohm coils (black).
There is a thread about these. The Dyna 5 ohm coil knock offs too. Have not tested those either. Bike project goes slow.

Charging OK on both my CB750. I have a voltmeter installed between gauges so I see how it works and not while riding.
Many test rides and adjustments of 3  regulators to keep charging above 14V, not over 14.5 V which can happen.

 I got sudden wild charging over 16V when core gap was over 0.9mm.
I have tested 3 regulators. 0.8-0.85mm  core gap.
Too tight, low charge or almost nothing.
Over 0.85mm risk to cook battery and electronic ignition at risk.
1.5-2 hours ride needed. I have seen charging go wrong after +1 hour on country roads.

Honda manual say 0.6-1.0mm.

Per: by chance, do you have an oscilloscope? It would be interesting to find out what the spark duration time is with those electronic units (at 3500+ RPM, in particular).
Honda's "gap range" for their regulator has long been a mystery to me: I suppose it reflects the different vendors they used for those parts from time to time?
I have gathered up 4 regulators and built a variable-voltage 3.1v-35v DC power supply (for other reasons) and will soon try to discover a more accurate adjustment gap for those regulators - if possible? The trial-and-error approach has long made them a little difficult to restore for 100% battery charge, 50 years later, with voltage outputs that more closely match things like the modern AGM battery. These batteries can last a decade or more if their charge level is kept within a certain range (which I'm trying to ascertain now), even sitting on the shelf somewhere with acid aboard. 'Tis a far cry from the old lead-acid plate battery of the 1970s!

...you sure have pretty instruments!

[PeWe]

Mark, I had an oscilloscope I got from my job when they reduced the number due to no longer needed.
A Philips 2 channel, think it was a 50MHz version. Maybe PM3215. Really easy to use.

I have not seen it the last decade. Might have thrown it during a clean up.
I know, you should never throw away tech stuff!!

I used it late 80's, early 90's when I had issues with a TV I made to work better. My colleague back then was a trained TV repair guy on that very model of Philips TV so he had the service manual

[Don R]

 A friend recently got an oscilloscope so time the pulses of his Dragster's electronic fuel injectors. He learned they were maxed out and added two more ahead of the turbocharger in addition to the eight in the ports to get enough fuel into the motor at max boost.

[willbird]

I ordered 2 of these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155231948547?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5tYHHEJBQ9C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=XgCEg0CPSya&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Have not tested yet. Looks like my Dyna-S I use with Dyna 5ohm coils (black).
There is a thread about these. The Dyna 5 ohm coil knock offs too. Have not tested those either. Bike project goes slow.

Charging OK on both my CB750. I have a voltmeter installed between gauges so I see how it works and not while riding.
Many test rides and adjustments of 3  regulators to keep charging above 14V, not over 14.5 V which can happen.

 I got sudden wild charging over 16V when core gap was over 0.9mm.
I have tested 3 regulators. 0.8-0.85mm  core gap.
Too tight, low charge or almost nothing.
Over 0.85mm risk to cook battery and electronic ignition at risk.
1.5-2 hours ride needed. I have seen charging go wrong after +1 hour on country roads.

Honda manual say 0.6-1.0mm.

Per: by chance, do you have an oscilloscope? It would be interesting to find out what the spark duration time is with those electronic units (at 3500+ RPM, in particular).
Honda's "gap range" for their regulator has long been a mystery to me: I suppose it reflects the different vendors they used for those parts from time to time?
I have gathered up 4 regulators and built a variable-voltage 3.1v-35v DC power supply (for other reasons) and will soon try to discover a more accurate adjustment gap for those regulators - if possible? The trial-and-error approach has long made them a little difficult to restore for 100% battery charge, 50 years later, with voltage outputs that more closely match things like the modern AGM battery. These batteries can last a decade or more if their charge level is kept within a certain range (which I'm trying to ascertain now), even sitting on the shelf somewhere with acid aboard. 'Tis a far cry from the old lead-acid plate battery of the 1970s!

...you sure have pretty instruments!

I never really have had to adj any regulators but did read the Motors and other manual instructions many times. They all said that what the regulator did changes when you put the steel enclosure back onto it ?? So they said to adjust it, and then sit the lid back on and see what you got with the lid on vs with the lid off ??

Bill