Topic: Where do I connect my heated grips?

[juntjoo]

Obviously I don't want them on unless the bike is. I believe I read somewhere to connect somewhere to a fuse. I'm guessing between the fuse and ignition? I have standard butt splicesi usually do shoddy work with. Would they be enough? Has anyone made a connecter so you could plug things in and out without having to perform surgery? Suppose I or someone in the future decides to remove the grips? Any tips? If I need to invest in new tools to make connectors I may do it as I'd probably use it a lot. And what about the black wire? Splice it also with the nearest ground wire or just directly to the bike somewhere?

[madmtnmotors]

Vintage connections has double crimp connectors as well as the proper tool to make connections that are as good as OEM:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494

[juntjoo]

Vintage connections has double crimp connectors as well as the proper tool to make connections that are as good as OEM:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494

Thanks. But is there a three way solution to make a T connection with this tool/method?

On a similar note: is there like a connection box you can install at this point between the fuse and ignition to connect other devices. Off the top of my head I'm thinking of these older speakers that would connect bare wire into these spring loaded doors that would close down on the wires. Maybe that's not secure enough in a motorcycle, but perhaps there's something similar out there. I've got voltage meter/USB charger I've connected directly to the battery which I'd rather have connected at the ignition also.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Is it something you can connect to the battery like we would with a battery maintainer?

Whatever you do monitor your voltage with those on!

[madmtnmotors]

Thanks. But is there a three way solution to make a T connection with this tool/method?

They have quite an assortment of connectors.

On a similar note: is there like a connection box you can install at this point between the fuse and ignition to connect other devices. Off the top of my head I'm thinking of these older speakers that would connect bare wire into these spring loaded doors that would close down on the wires. Maybe that's not secure enough in a motorcycle, but perhaps there's something similar out there. I've got voltage meter/USB charger I've connected directly to the battery which I'd rather have connected at the ignition also.

You are proposing a custom wiring scheme. I would suggest studying the CB750 wiring "scheme"atic and deciding how best to approach what you want to achieve. I highly recommend rewiring the ignition switch to activate a relay for your main ignition controlled power circuit. The stock ignition switch would likely outlast the bike with this simple mod and it's almost a mandatory modification when using an aftermarket Emglo ("no go") ignition switch.


Or just do like calj does. Jettison the entire harness and wire it up with an M-unit! 

[juntjoo]

Is it something you can connect to the battery like we would with a battery maintainer?

Whatever you do monitor your voltage with those on!

Yes, I have this voltage monitor/USB power port that I hooked up whereas shown in pic at the main fuse, but again I have to turn this off after turning off the engine. So I would possibly like to take care of two birds with one stone. I'm not gonna do any new electrical mods tonight, just get it connected at the right place.

But how do I get to under this fuse box. I'm going to connect both my voltage monitor and heated grips here with the wire that goes to the ignition. Is this the right move? Either way, how to get under this box? As shown there's no room to get at the base screws. Less room on the other side.

[rotortiller]

I did my daughter's CBR 250 and used a small relay under the seat. See what the grip wattage is and buy a suitable relay. I energized the relay coil  from a tail light wire and pulled  power from the positive battery terminal. If your tail light is not always on pick another circuit to tap off of.  That method offers an independent power wire and fuse to the grips with no butchering of the stock harness.

[flybox1]

+1 for a relay connected to your battery, but ensure your charging system is sorted.
Headlight or running light circuit would work to switch the relay..

[juntjoo]

Sorry, I've even watched videos on relays but I'm missing their purpose. What's the harm in just connecting it somewhere behind the ignition?

[madmtnmotors]

Sorry, I've even watched videos on relays but I'm missing their purpose. What's the harm in just connecting it somewhere behind the ignition?

It avoids "amp loading" your ignition switch. The starter solenoid is a relay that keeps from routing the high amperage starting circuit through your ignition switch. The "click" you hear from a starter solenoid (relay) is the sound of the plunger closing the contactors of the secondary circuit. The ignition switch powers the solenoid and the start button signals the solenoid (relay) to close and power the start circuit. Run all the extra amps through your ignition switch if you like. It may work trouble free, maybe not. Hook it up and see what happens, all we can do is express our opinions as to how to avoid potential trouble. I power the ignition coils and DynaS ignition via relay on my racebike. There are two circuits to a relay, the relay power/signal circuit and the separate circuit that the relay controls via the first circuit. If you don't understand how to wire a relay then my suggestion would be to wire the extra accessories directly from the battery, with an inline fuse near the battery, and a toggle switch on the handle bars.

EZPZ 

[madmtnmotors]

Better yet, ride up to Saint Cloud and I'll help you wire up the relay to control the heated grips.

[juntjoo]

Better yet, ride up to Saint Cloud and I'll help you wire up the relay to control the heated grips.

Thanks. You lost me at "amp loading". But I'm guessing you're talking about too much amps drawing away from the starter when starting? Okay. Whatever I do with that I can do later. Now I still can just get it connected in a comfy place and test it out. I will carry my jump cables on me just in case

Is there like a basic 3 way connecter you can use to intersect  a wire with another, to be able to pick any spot along a wire rather than being limited to so many existing junctions? I haven't seen any in basic auto electrical connector kits. Thanks. Saint cloud? I'll Google it. Sounds nice, quaint.

[juntjoo]

Aha! These can work. CAN. Don't know their intended purpose exactly but finagle it I'm sure

[juntjoo]

Even better. These connections. I forgot I got a bunch of them to wire my voltage meter/USB port accessory. Or that's how it came so I got all the hardware to match. So I'll use my butt splices to connect. I figured out my "shoddy" crimp work was due to me not melting the connections a bit like you're supposed to do. I've got a little torch lighter that'll do

[juntjoo]

Can't believe I almost forgot I had this setup.

Okay, so this(see black&red round terminals) will be the main hookup to the future relay and all other extra hookups I'll make to fit this system. I was connected to that nut at the main fuse so now I just have to figure out where I'll reconnect it on the other side of the ignition.

[juntjoo]

For some reason I can't get power to these grips. Directly from the battery yes, but through my quick connectors no. Any ideas on this?

[madmtnmotors]

You lost me at "amp loading"

The solenoid (relay) isolates the high amp draw of the starter from the main electrical system. If you ran the amp draw of the starter through the ignition switch it would fry the switch (and probably part of the harness) on the first hit.

Saint cloud? I'll Google it. Sounds nice, quaint.

Just South of Orlando 

[juntjoo]

If anyone gets a chance pls check two posts up, my video. I have verified getting power through my sae cables and getting power to my grips via alligator clips but not via the sae cable. Kinda stuck.

[Deltarider]

Forgive me if I missed it, but how many amps do your grips draw? Wouldn't that be too much? A cheap solution that remains, is to grab headers 1 and 4 whenever you have to wait at a traffic light. 

[juntjoo]

Forgive me if I missed it, but how many amps do your grips draw? Wouldn't that be too much? A cheap solution that remains, is to grab headers 1 and 4 whenever you have to wait at a traffic light. 

Lol.... Too much amps? Well they make them for motorcycles. What do you mean?

[Deltarider]

Heating usually needs a lot of current. What bike is it for and did the grips come with any specification?

[juntjoo]

Heating usually needs a lot of current. What bike is it for and did the grips come with any specification?

Thanks. Bike in my sig and:

"Energy-efficient, Ultra-thin electric hand dedicated switch

Advanced electronic thermostat system does not consume power, Helps to protect the battery"

No other info.

E-Bro New Motorcycle 7/8" 22mm Electric Hand Heated Molded Grips Handle Handlebar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q82S4GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hfpcCbW050V2C

[Deltarider]

Strange they don't give any specifications, either in amps or in watts. Anyway, here are a few they sell in Europe, just to give you an idea. https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/produkte/heated-motorcycle-grips/338
Click Read More for specs. Some offer various stages, but I doubt you will ever feel much heat when switched at 10,5 Watts...

[juntjoo]

Strange they don't give any specifications, either in amps or in watts. Anyway, here are a few they sell in Europe, just to give you an idea. https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/produkte/heated-motorcycle-grips/338

Thanks. Well if they're anything like the ones you referenced 43w at highest setting. Yeah, I'm aware of the charging weakness of these bikes. Haven't had any issues yet so we'll see. It's really for like a handful of rides during a short winter here in florida

[rotortiller]

Too much amps? Well they make them for motorcycles. What do you mean?

Lets say your heated grips draw 3 or 4 amps. That could over load the bikes power wires and key switch contacts leading to heat distress and/or voltage drop. The relay activation coil allows remote low energy switching using the bikes stock wiring system but it carries the high electrical power to the grips through dedicated wiring from the battery. The dedicated wiring is part of the heated grip kit and includes a fuse and its own switching if you don't want ignition key switching. The fuse is to protect the kit wires from overheating in the event of a short. In the picture you can see the fuse, kit wiring and small relay.

[juntjoo]

Well now I have automatic cruise control. Which is kinda cool but not safe or possibly bad otherwise. Idk but if anyone knows the exact adjustment for the push cable let me know. Otherwise I'll figure it out soon enough. Hopefully it's an easy one this time lol

[juntjoo]

Too much amps? Well they make them for motorcycles. What do you mean?

Lets say your heated grips draw 3 or 4 amps. That could over load the bikes power wires and key switch contacts leading to heat distress and/or voltage drop. The relay activation coil allows remote low energy switching using the bikes stock wiring system but it carries the high electrical power to the grips through dedicated wiring from the battery. The dedicated wiring is part of the heated grip kit and includes a fuse and its own switching if you don't want ignition key switching. The fuse is to protect the kit wires from overheating in the event of a short. In the picture you can see the fuse, kit wiring and small relay.

Thank you! It's kinda making sense now lol. I guess my grips' fuse is in there somewhere I can't see.

So I did get myself a relay. Four prong, not five. I just guessed. Hopefully this is right. So two are for the dedicated circuit(grips) and the other two to the main circuit that closes the relay(switch) if I'm right.

I'm guessing I'm going back to the tail ligtt cuz it's accessible/convenient. Now am I cutting right into one of these green wires and attaching them to the two terminals for the relay then attaching the red and black grip wires to the dedicated terminals? Will any green do? I see in the diagram they're part of the same circuit, turn signals and brake light.

And what about these crappy butt connectors that always lose grip? Are they supposed to be heated? I tried my little torch lighter on one and didn't seem like it wanted to be heated lol. Think I messed up there. But whenever I try to crimp them really good they break. Not enough and I get what you see in the pic.

Thanks!

[madmtnmotors]

If I need to invest in new tools to make connectors I may do it as I'd probably use it a lot.

You need to invest in the proper tool and connectors:











The double crimp connectors are comparable to the stock OEM connections. The single crimp connectors typically fail eventually even when done carefully. They are not up to the task when subjected to the extra vibration induced stress of motorcycle operation. I won't use the single crimp connectors on any type of motor vehicle, they are failure prone and asking for trouble. I will probably order a set of replacement crimping dies since I fully expect to wear out a set.

[juntjoo]

Ah, okay. Thank you. Someone else(maybe you) suggested these or similar. For now I'll make due but good to know I should upgrade. Not so experienced with the electronics as the dead stuff. I'll be due for an electronics tools update

For now I'll just know I've got these "single crimp" connections back there. Easy to upgrade when need be. And I'm connecting into the circuit here(in pic). That's right in the back of the tail light. Looks easy enough as I have the female counterparts to these blade terminals. And I think I may use the cone/cap connectors instead of the butt ones.

Edit: actually no, it's the brown one that's the hot one, not green. I got it

[juntjoo]

Anyone have any idea why I can get resistance across the relay testing with the ignition but not voltage?

Confirmed grips work connected directly.

Confirmed voltage to the point(brown wore to rear lights) with ignition switch closed

So relay works but not passing current. What am I doing wrong? Thanks

[rotortiller]

Now am I cutting right into one of these green wires and attaching them to the two terminals for the relay

You need to do some research as solid green wires are ground wires on the old Honda. The relay coil needs a switched power wire (positive tail light wire) and a ground. That activates the relay and causes the main contacts to connect. The grips positive will go to the relay main contact after the fuse (the fuse 6mm lug connects to the battery positive terminal) You will have to cut the grip positive wire after the fuse to connect with the main contacts of the relay, basically it inserts inline as one +wire in and + one out.

[madmtnmotors]

Just follow the numbers:

[juntjoo]

Now am I cutting right into one of these green wires and attaching them to the two terminals for the relay

You need to do some research as solid green wires are ground wires on the old Honda. The relay coil needs a switched power wire (positive tail light wire) and a ground. That activates the relay and causes the main contacts to connect. The grips positive will go to the relay main contact after the fuse (the fuse 6mm lug connects to the battery positive terminal) You will have to cut the grip positive wire after the fuse to connect with the main contacts of the relay, basically it inserts inline as one +wire in and + one out.

No I caught and corrected myself with that. Brown wires.

[rotortiller]

[No I caught and corrected myself with that. Brown wires./quote]

Very good, glad you got it sorted.

[juntjoo]

No no, I got it sorted before I ended up stuck.

Verified power, proper relay switch activation, proper operation of grips, but when tied altogether, battery to relay to grips, no power.

I'm using different wire gauges so maybe that has something to do with it. If I repeat the issue again I'll record it.

May try again tonight...

It's not even cold enough to use em yet this year. But last year yes

[juntjoo]

Miraculously it worked. With alligator clips. With my luck once I crimp and heat shrink it all up it won't work.