Topic: Where do I connect my heated grips?

[juntjoo]

Obviously I don't want them on unless the bike is. I believe I read somewhere to connect somewhere to a fuse. I'm guessing between the fuse and ignition? I have standard butt splicesi usually do shoddy work with. Would they be enough? Has anyone made a connecter so you could plug things in and out without having to perform surgery? Suppose I or someone in the future decides to remove the grips? Any tips? If I need to invest in new tools to make connectors I may do it as I'd probably use it a lot. And what about the black wire? Splice it also with the nearest ground wire or just directly to the bike somewhere?

[madmtnmotors]

Vintage connections has double crimp connectors as well as the proper tool to make connections that are as good as OEM:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494

[juntjoo]

Vintage connections has double crimp connectors as well as the proper tool to make connections that are as good as OEM:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494

Thanks. But is there a three way solution to make a T connection with this tool/method?

On a similar note: is there like a connection box you can install at this point between the fuse and ignition to connect other devices. Off the top of my head I'm thinking of these older speakers that would connect bare wire into these spring loaded doors that would close down on the wires. Maybe that's not secure enough in a motorcycle, but perhaps there's something similar out there. I've got voltage meter/USB charger I've connected directly to the battery which I'd rather have connected at the ignition also.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Is it something you can connect to the battery like we would with a battery maintainer?

Whatever you do monitor your voltage with those on!

[madmtnmotors]

Thanks. But is there a three way solution to make a T connection with this tool/method?

They have quite an assortment of connectors.

On a similar note: is there like a connection box you can install at this point between the fuse and ignition to connect other devices. Off the top of my head I'm thinking of these older speakers that would connect bare wire into these spring loaded doors that would close down on the wires. Maybe that's not secure enough in a motorcycle, but perhaps there's something similar out there. I've got voltage meter/USB charger I've connected directly to the battery which I'd rather have connected at the ignition also.

You are proposing a custom wiring scheme. I would suggest studying the CB750 wiring "scheme"atic and deciding how best to approach what you want to achieve. I highly recommend rewiring the ignition switch to activate a relay for your main ignition controlled power circuit. The stock ignition switch would likely outlast the bike with this simple mod and it's almost a mandatory modification when using an aftermarket Emglo ("no go") ignition switch.


Or just do like calj does. Jettison the entire harness and wire it up with an M-unit! 

[juntjoo]

Is it something you can connect to the battery like we would with a battery maintainer?

Whatever you do monitor your voltage with those on!

Yes, I have this voltage monitor/USB power port that I hooked up whereas shown in pic at the main fuse, but again I have to turn this off after turning off the engine. So I would possibly like to take care of two birds with one stone. I'm not gonna do any new electrical mods tonight, just get it connected at the right place.

But how do I get to under this fuse box. I'm going to connect both my voltage monitor and heated grips here with the wire that goes to the ignition. Is this the right move? Either way, how to get under this box? As shown there's no room to get at the base screws. Less room on the other side.

[rotortiller]

I did my daughter's CBR 250 and used a small relay under the seat. See what the grip wattage is and buy a suitable relay. I energized the relay coil  from a tail light wire and pulled  power from the positive battery terminal. If your tail light is not always on pick another circuit to tap off of.  That method offers an independent power wire and fuse to the grips with no butchering of the stock harness.

[flybox1]

+1 for a relay connected to your battery, but ensure your charging system is sorted.
Headlight or running light circuit would work to switch the relay..

[juntjoo]

Sorry, I've even watched videos on relays but I'm missing their purpose. What's the harm in just connecting it somewhere behind the ignition?

[madmtnmotors]

Sorry, I've even watched videos on relays but I'm missing their purpose. What's the harm in just connecting it somewhere behind the ignition?

It avoids "amp loading" your ignition switch. The starter solenoid is a relay that keeps from routing the high amperage starting circuit through your ignition switch. The "click" you hear from a starter solenoid (relay) is the sound of the plunger closing the contactors of the secondary circuit. The ignition switch powers the solenoid and the start button signals the solenoid (relay) to close and power the start circuit. Run all the extra amps through your ignition switch if you like. It may work trouble free, maybe not. Hook it up and see what happens, all we can do is express our opinions as to how to avoid potential trouble. I power the ignition coils and DynaS ignition via relay on my racebike. There are two circuits to a relay, the relay power/signal circuit and the separate circuit that the relay controls via the first circuit. If you don't understand how to wire a relay then my suggestion would be to wire the extra accessories directly from the battery, with an inline fuse near the battery, and a toggle switch on the handle bars.

EZPZ 

[madmtnmotors]

Better yet, ride up to Saint Cloud and I'll help you wire up the relay to control the heated grips.

[juntjoo]

Better yet, ride up to Saint Cloud and I'll help you wire up the relay to control the heated grips.

Thanks. You lost me at "amp loading". But I'm guessing you're talking about too much amps drawing away from the starter when starting? Okay. Whatever I do with that I can do later. Now I still can just get it connected in a comfy place and test it out. I will carry my jump cables on me just in case

Is there like a basic 3 way connecter you can use to intersect  a wire with another, to be able to pick any spot along a wire rather than being limited to so many existing junctions? I haven't seen any in basic auto electrical connector kits. Thanks. Saint cloud? I'll Google it. Sounds nice, quaint.

[juntjoo]

Aha! These can work. CAN. Don't know their intended purpose exactly but finagle it I'm sure

[juntjoo]

Even better. These connections. I forgot I got a bunch of them to wire my voltage meter/USB port accessory. Or that's how it came so I got all the hardware to match. So I'll use my butt splices to connect. I figured out my "shoddy" crimp work was due to me not melting the connections a bit like you're supposed to do. I've got a little torch lighter that'll do

[juntjoo]

Can't believe I almost forgot I had this setup.

Okay, so this(see black&red round terminals) will be the main hookup to the future relay and all other extra hookups I'll make to fit this system. I was connected to that nut at the main fuse so now I just have to figure out where I'll reconnect it on the other side of the ignition.

[juntjoo]

For some reason I can't get power to these grips. Directly from the battery yes, but through my quick connectors no. Any ideas on this?

[madmtnmotors]

You lost me at "amp loading"

The solenoid (relay) isolates the high amp draw of the starter from the main electrical system. If you ran the amp draw of the starter through the ignition switch it would fry the switch (and probably part of the harness) on the first hit.

Saint cloud? I'll Google it. Sounds nice, quaint.

Just South of Orlando 

[juntjoo]

If anyone gets a chance pls check two posts up, my video. I have verified getting power through my sae cables and getting power to my grips via alligator clips but not via the sae cable. Kinda stuck.

[Deltarider]

Forgive me if I missed it, but how many amps do your grips draw? Wouldn't that be too much? A cheap solution that remains, is to grab headers 1 and 4 whenever you have to wait at a traffic light. 

[juntjoo]

Forgive me if I missed it, but how many amps do your grips draw? Wouldn't that be too much? A cheap solution that remains, is to grab headers 1 and 4 whenever you have to wait at a traffic light. 

Lol.... Too much amps? Well they make them for motorcycles. What do you mean?

[Deltarider]

Heating usually needs a lot of current. What bike is it for and did the grips come with any specification?

[juntjoo]

Heating usually needs a lot of current. What bike is it for and did the grips come with any specification?

Thanks. Bike in my sig and:

"Energy-efficient, Ultra-thin electric hand dedicated switch

Advanced electronic thermostat system does not consume power, Helps to protect the battery"

No other info.

E-Bro New Motorcycle 7/8" 22mm Electric Hand Heated Molded Grips Handle Handlebar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q82S4GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hfpcCbW050V2C

[Deltarider]

Strange they don't give any specifications, either in amps or in watts. Anyway, here are a few they sell in Europe, just to give you an idea. https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/produkte/heated-motorcycle-grips/338
Click Read More for specs. Some offer various stages, but I doubt you will ever feel much heat when switched at 10,5 Watts...

[juntjoo]

Strange they don't give any specifications, either in amps or in watts. Anyway, here are a few they sell in Europe, just to give you an idea. https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/produkte/heated-motorcycle-grips/338

Thanks. Well if they're anything like the ones you referenced 43w at highest setting. Yeah, I'm aware of the charging weakness of these bikes. Haven't had any issues yet so we'll see. It's really for like a handful of rides during a short winter here in florida

[rotortiller]

Too much amps? Well they make them for motorcycles. What do you mean?

Lets say your heated grips draw 3 or 4 amps. That could over load the bikes power wires and key switch contacts leading to heat distress and/or voltage drop. The relay activation coil allows remote low energy switching using the bikes stock wiring system but it carries the high electrical power to the grips through dedicated wiring from the battery. The dedicated wiring is part of the heated grip kit and includes a fuse and its own switching if you don't want ignition key switching. The fuse is to protect the kit wires from overheating in the event of a short. In the picture you can see the fuse, kit wiring and small relay.