Author Topic: 1978 Cb750K Ghost (Read 20718 times)

greyghost18t · « **Reply #75 on:** April 22, 2016, 09:11:14 AM »

I think i might do the black with polished covers

especially seeing this on how the engine looks.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #76 on:** April 22, 2016, 11:00:51 AM »

Here's an idea. All black with fin edges sanded bare, and Joker finned covers with the contrast fin edges, like the covers I used on my 750, but with an all black motor. Balls!

Desert-SOHC · « **Reply #77 on:** April 22, 2016, 11:20:52 AM »

^^^that looks sweet

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #78 on:** April 22, 2016, 12:25:20 PM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on April 22, 2016, 11:00:51 AM

Here's an idea. All black with fin edges sanded bare, and Joker finned covers with the contrast fin edges, like the covers I used on my 750, but with an all black motor. Balls!

Joker Machine stuff is super cool. Ghost, you planning on changing the bolts too? The picture you posted as upgraded bolts on the engine. The contrast between the new hardware & black engine looks awesome, but not sure you could do that without removing the engine.

greyghost18t · « **Reply #79 on:** April 22, 2016, 12:31:20 PM »

I don't think i am going to upgrade the bolts right now. I am trying to get this all done for a show on the 15th which i don't know if i will make it with band practice, softball, and home repairs with the wife...

edwardmorris · « **Reply #80 on:** April 22, 2016, 12:34:36 PM »

Quote from: greyghost18t on April 22, 2016, 09:11:14 AM

I think i might do the black with polished covers
...........

Uncle Tez's black engine with polished covers is what made my start on bike 2, although after polishing everything on the K2 and realizing what a pain the clean up after is, I decided against it. Sure looks cool though,

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #81 on:** April 22, 2016, 01:34:23 PM »

Edward, the points cover on that is awesome.

strynboen · « **Reply #82 on:** April 22, 2016, 01:51:33 PM »

yes it looks great..i got one for my 550..they are not use, the same bolt on posision..and mine tekst is just Honda..not sohc

greyghost18t · « **Reply #83 on:** April 24, 2016, 05:40:08 PM »

Well i did some more work this weekend.

Nothing like doing a still in frame engine painting.

Took tons of oil off the front of the bike from the forks leaking. Also wanted to take the carbs off to paint but of course the last screw to take them off was stripped so i had to tape everything up.

greyghost18t · « **Reply #84 on:** April 26, 2016, 07:16:47 AM »

So i made a dumbass mistake the other day. I was going to take off the right side covers to polish and didn't realize that i didn't drain the oil. Well i took the bolts out of the trans case and started to take the case off and oil all over the floor.. well my question is - i need to do an oil change anyways.. if i take off the trans case and the alternator cover to polish do i need new seals? Or should i just polish them while they are on the bike?

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #85 on:** April 26, 2016, 10:17:40 AM »

Did you put a clear coat on the engine?

greyghost18t · « **Reply #86 on:** April 26, 2016, 10:22:29 AM »

No i just did high temp rattle can.. its not perfect and maybe just temporary. Maybe if i have the motivation over the winter i will take the engine out of the frame and do a better paint job. but it looks decent for right now.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #87 on:** April 26, 2016, 10:56:52 AM »

The only seals I know of in the trans & alt case are the gear shift seal (which I didn't replace on mine & is fine) & the two rubber grommets that fit around the wires leading to the coil in the alt case. Those grommets aren't replaceable, but it's a good idea to add some non-hardening gasket sealant around them upon reassembly.

greyghost18t · « **Reply #88 on:** April 28, 2016, 06:38:36 AM »

Alright.. I ordered some new crush washers for the exhaust, oil filter and seals for an oil change, new screws for the carb insulator bands so once i drill out the stripped one i can have piece of mind. Also 44mm K&N pods to fit on the carbs since the ones every store shows for a 78cb750k are only 40mm. If no softball tonight maybe get some paint touch up on the frame done and put the front forks together to start getting the front end back together.

greyghost18t · « **Reply #89 on:** May 09, 2016, 10:22:31 AM »

So got the front end back together.. the front brakes compressed so i have to figure out how to separate the pads to get the wheel back on.

754 · « **Reply #90 on:** May 09, 2016, 10:32:58 AM »

Two screwdrivers should push pads back... insert a piece of alloy or wood next time...

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #91 on:** May 09, 2016, 10:38:51 AM »

Use a large flat-head screwdriver or the flat side of a small chisel. Insert into the gap and leverage the pad away.

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #92 on:** May 09, 2016, 10:41:37 AM »

Remove the two bolts holding the caliper together, then use a c-clamp to push the piston back in?

greyghost18t · « **Reply #93 on:** June 06, 2016, 08:21:58 AM »

It’s been a while but i was able to work on the bike yesterday for a while. Made some good progress.

First thing I did was get the front wheel back on the bike after i was able to move the brake pads that were compressed back. That was pretty easy. Tried to move the wheel and it was stuck. Decided to check the brakes more. Got the cover off the brake fluid reservoir and noticed the fluid was milky and sludgy. Was hoping the brakes would be OK but this turned into another learning experience. So i went and got new brake fluid and oil for the oil change i was hoping to get to. Get the new fluid in and bleed the brakes and saw so much rusty milky discharge coming out. Got the brakes bled and it was feeling good but the piston was not moving once engaged and was making the front wheel stick. So at this point I decided to take the caliper apart and rebuild it. Took some time but i got the piston out using the forced air method. Decided to paint the calipers so currently the brakes are apart still. I did sand down the piston to get any residue from old brake fluid off and also the inside of the outer caliper. I think it might be time to upgrade to better brake lines. Who should i try for stainless since slingshot is not around?

Well since i had that in the wings i decided to tackle the rear wheel. I got the rear wheel back on and was able to get the new chain on. also got the rear brake adjusted and noticed that it was so un-adjusted last year in my first year of riding that i really didn't have functioning rear brakes. Works great now. Was also able to get the speedo and tach cables back on. Replaced the seal for the tach cable going into the engine as well. Lets hope that stops the leak of oil there.

The next thing was replacing the chrome headlight ring. I was up in northern WI last weekend and went to a couple of antique junk yards. One had a mid 70's model cb750k sitting there. I was able to pick the ring for $10. When i go back i am going to grab the bike or other parts. Then i went to another antique place and found a gas tank. Not sure what year it is from. i think early to mid 70's. Can someone look at the pictures below and estimate on it? It has some rust in side but seems pretty solid. It will be another project once i get the bike on the road.

My next quests are to get the brakes back together, the exhaust on and the oil changed and start riding.

greyghost18t · « **Reply #94 on:** June 07, 2016, 06:00:46 AM »

Well i took the front brake apart again. Still sticking but not as bad. Just some drag. Looks like i have to try rebuilding the master cylinder. I did get the exhaust back on and did an oil change last night. This was pretty easy for the oil change. Started right up. I hope to take it around the block tonight. I also have to get some better clear tubing for bleeding the brakes because what i have is to large and the paint job on my calipers need to be redone again.

Next thing after riding it will be to work on the carbs. They are still leaking gas after the bike has been shut down. I also noticed that my exhaust is not allowing my rear brake pedal to work effectively because it is too close on that side to allow the brake pedal to move downwards to engage the brake.

greyghost18t · « **Reply #95 on:** June 28, 2016, 07:26:57 AM »

It lives! Rode it to work today. Had to get a new master cylinder which I installed this weekend. Bleed the front brake and it works pretty good. Thanks to Jeff at Godffery's for all of the help and recommendations. My stainless steel brake line came in yesterday from slingshot and i hope to get that on this weekend as well.

The bike feels so different from last year. The new progressive springs up front make such a difference. No more dipping like it was. Now i just need to sort out the high idle i get at stop lights when the clutch is not engaged. Also need to sync the carbs since i have the k&n cone filters on now.

It felt good to be back on a bike!

greyghost18t · « **Reply #96 on:** July 05, 2016, 06:24:12 AM »

Well over the last week my front brake was dragging and making a high pitch screeching sound while driving. Took the whole caliper apart this weekend, stripped the paint, repainted it, honed it, cleaned it, lubricated with silicone grease(that was so hard to find), put i back together, ran the SS brake lines and bleed it. Thanks to Dino for his videos on youtube this was an easy task. Took it for a test ride and its doing alright so far.

Also had another project I worked on. Found a gas tank(not sure what year it is yet) for $20. Was painted real bad so I decided to start the stripping project.

Prep

After the first coat of Aircraft Remover - you can see the original color still under the black.

After the 2nd coat - you can see the logo mounts are still there. They used bondo to smooth them out.

After the 3rd coat and some wire brush. Its not perfect but the tank is pretty solid. I don't see any hole from rust( found this in a rummage yard sitting out in northern WI for years)

Here is the bottom. There was surface rust but it looks pretty good.

So I found brown as the color under the black on top of the tank, but found red on the bottom of the tank. Was this normal for these tanks? Anyone know what year this would be from?

calj737 · « **Reply #97 on:** July 05, 2016, 07:37:56 AM »

I'd wager the Red is the original color, the brown a primer layer over the bondo and beneath the black.

greyghost18t · « **Reply #98 on:** July 06, 2016, 07:05:26 AM »

Donald said its possibly 1970-71 Candy Ruby Red, 1975 Candy Apricot Red or 1976 Candy Antares Red. Anyone try using the Red-Kote gas tank liner? It looks like i have surface rust inside the tank and i want to make sure the tank is sealed before using it.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #99 on:** July 06, 2016, 07:11:19 AM »

I don't know enough about tank idiosyncrasies from year to year to make out the individual year. Are there any tell-tale signs (aside from a wrinkle tank) to discern the different years?

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Author Topic: 1978 Cb750K Ghost (Read 20718 times)