Topic: Toyota Pickup Forum

[DaveBarbier]

On the 22Rs after 1982 I believe, they went to a single row timing chain and plastic guides. When the hydraulic tensioner quits doing its job (typically around 140-150 K), the chain is slack enough to hit the guides and break them up. The pieces fall into the oil pan. Eventually the chain will eat into the water jacket if the bad tensioner isn't addressed. The fix isn't bad unless you do it the official Toyota way which involves removing the head and oil pan. It is possible to remove the timing chain cover without head and pan removal though. My '81 has the double row chains and metal guides so noise is the main effect of a bad tensioner. Metal guides are available in the aftermarket for later engines as well as better than OEM tensioners.

Thanks ofreen. My manual most likely has the 'Toyota method' for replacing the timing chain. I'll check around, maybe YouTube, but any place you know that shows the faster, less invasive way?

[ofreen]

I've done three of them, my '81 pickup, a friend's '84 (it had the plastic guides that were broken and the pieces removed from the pan), and another friend's Celica the vintage of which escapes me.

I found these two pages bookmarked in my old computer. That is basically how I did it.  There is a fair amount of disassembly involved, but it isn't too bad of a job, especially if the plastic guides are intact.  I just did a search on youtube "Toyota 22R Timing Chain Replacement" and got a bunch of hits. I didn't watch any, though.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/TimingChain.shtml

[DaveBarbier]

I've done three of them, my '81 pickup, a friend's '84 (it had the plastic guides that were broken and the pieces removed from the pan), and another friend's Celica the vintage of which escapes me.

I found these two pages bookmarked in my old computer. That is basically how I did it.  There is a fair amount of disassembly involved, but it isn't too bad of a job, especially if the plastic guides are intact.  I just did a search on youtube "Toyota 22R Timing Chain Replacement" and got a bunch of hits. I didn't watch any, though.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/TimingChain.shtml

Thanks brother

[DaveBarbier]

On the 22Rs after 1982 I believe, they went to a single row timing chain and plastic guides. When the hydraulic tensioner quits doing its job (typically around 140-150 K), the chain is slack enough to hit the guides and break them up. The pieces fall into the oil pan. Eventually the chain will eat into the water jacket if the bad tensioner isn't addressed. The fix isn't bad unless you do it the official Toyota way which involves removing the head and oil pan. It is possible to remove the timing chain cover without head and pan removal though. My '81 has the double row chains and metal guides so noise is the main effect of a bad tensioner. Metal guides are available in the aftermarket for later engines as well as better than OEM tensioners.

Dammit! You were spot on with that. The plastic guide is toast. Broke to bits and now the chain is eating away at the timing cover. Hasn't gone all the way through to the coolant passageways but it's close. Hoping to fix it next weekend.

[mrbreeze]

Renew all the timing chain components, seals, gaskets, etc.......drive another 200K!!

[DaveBarbier]

Renew all the timing chain components, seals, gaskets, etc.......drive another 200K!!

That's the plan!

[ofreen]

Dammit! You were spot on with that. The plastic guide is toast. Broke to bits and now the chain is eating away at the timing cover. Hasn't gone all the way through to the coolant passageways but it's close. Hoping to fix it next weekend.

Sorry to see that.  The '84 I did was the same way.  It was a two wheel drive so I was able to drop the pan enough to reach in there and scoop the pieces out.  Too bad Toyota started to cheap out with the plastic guides.  Good luck with the job.

[DaveBarbier]

Thanks, I'll post results in hopes to turn this into a Toyota truck forum

[Stev-o]

Ok, so I'll post a pic of my truck since it seems this is the unoffical Toyota truck forum!

Nothin special, just a good work truck...and great for taking the dogs to the lake.

[DaveBarbier]

Ha, that's a nice truck. I'm envious of it's ability to move itself.

This is unofficial, but I'm getting more of a response here than the two forums I'm on.

[Stev-o]

This is unofficial, but I'm getting more of a response here than the two forums I'm on.

That does not surprise me. I get three times the response here than on the Kaw Triples forum about my H1 rebuild.

[bear]

Might as well throw my two cents worth in.

I've had Hilux "utes"as we call them down here since I was a kid and a tougher, more honest vehical I have yet to see.

I'm a lot longer in the tooth these days and I wanted a high end dual cab.
Unfortunately Toyota didn't have ute to fit the bill down here, we built one for em, using a 100 series Landcruiser. 
My only regret was that I used a GM motor intead of a Cummins.

Cheers,
Brian

[DaveBarbier]

"Utes" reminds me of "My Cousin Vinny".

Don't go into the business of auto design but that's a cool truck.

[2strokeTrush]

Would love to have a D4D Hilux.

[RAFster122s]

Kinda sucks that they couldn't have made a Chevy S-10 or Ford Ranger to be so bullet proof. Both of those trucks have good body styles but very few go beyond 100K without needing major work.

There are a few crazy people who fit another's companies motor into a competitor's vehicle.   You could do that to either a Chevy S10 or Ford Ranger.
It would be pretty involved as the instrument panel and wiring harness and ECU, etc have to be transplanted. 
Not for the faint of heart.
Me, I like the body style of Tacomas over either of those. Maybe an exception would be a very old Ford.
David

[colvinry]

Here is mine. 1985, 22re, 5-speed, 340k on body, supposedly 115k on the motor. I think the motor might be further along that he led on. Picked it up from South Caronlina a few months ago, been DD ever since.  Here is a pic on the hauler in SC.
I think my timing chain guides need some loving as well. Dave how long did that repair take you?

Ryan

[DaveBarbier]

Here is mine. 1985, 22re, 5-speed, 340k on body, supposedly 115k on the motor. I think the motor might be further along that he led on. Picked it up from South Caronlina a few months ago, been DD ever since.  Here is a pic on the hauler in SC.
I think my timing chain guides need some loving as well. Dave how long did that repair take you?

Ryan

That looks to be in really good shape. Keep after the rust. They say to really clean out the inside of the frame with compressed air or a power washer since these things tend to rust from the inside out. They usually have a lot of dirt and crap in the frame.

I haven't done the timing guide replacement yet. Waiting on parts. I assume it'll take me a weekend as long as nothing goes wrong.

I got the whole front end replacement kit from Engnbldr.com. If you have 20 minutes you can remove the valve cover and check to see the condition of the guide (driver side is the offender). It really doesn't take long at all and then you have piece of mind, or you get depressed...depends on what you see.

I'll post the results here when I'm done.

[DaveBarbier]

Maybe this will turn into a build thread, haha. Just a little update. Started the disassembly and things are going smooth. Did the "starter bump method" of removing the crank pulley bolt which apparently is a bear to remove. Just disconnect the coil so it doesn't fire and then do this (this is the video I just made):
 

[madmtnmotors]

I bought my 89' Toyota 4WD pickup brand spankin' new (15 miles on it) 330,000 miles ago. 22RE, 5 speed. No real issues. Had to replace the main bearings in the transmission at 175,000 and it's about due again (did it myself). I was returning home from a trip North and there was so much slop in the bearings that as I approached Atlanta the transmission decided to lock up in 4th gear. Had to drive from Atlanta to Orlando with 4th gear only. Would shift into 4-low when moving around on secondary roads, and back to 2-high for interstate. Fortunately most of that Atlanta to Orlando leg was interstate, except for fuel stops. Had to disassemble the transmission to disengage 4th gear.

Still runs like a champ. Had a guy look at it today after he heard I was getting ready to sell (I have too many vehicles right now). I think he was hoping that I was giving it away...

[70CB750]

Buddy of mine put 600 000 miles on Tacoma.  The only reason he got rid of it was the frame above rear axle - it was held together by the undercoating mainly.

But another guy bought it from him, had it welded up - something I would never trust - and it is still on the road.

[madmtnmotors]

Did the "starter bump method" of removing the crank pulley bolt which apparently is a bear to remove. Just disconnect the coil so it doesn't fire and then do this

That's how I do it! 

[Stev-o]

But another guy bought it from him, had it welded up - something I would never trust - and it is still on the road.

I'd almost trust a re-weld over the factory welds at that age. New steel, fresh welds, drive another 1/2 million miles!
But I take your point about not knowing the extent of the corrosion elsewhere and the differences in stiffness.

Some more recent model Toyota trucks are plagued by frames rusting out prematurely. Luckily, I have not had that issue on 5 of the ones that I have owned.

[DaveBarbier]

I don't understand why they rust. I know all cars will eventually go back to the earth, but why are these trucks known for it? Is it the metal used? Is it the design of water drainage/shed?

[madmtnmotors]

My wife suburban (2000) is a piece of crap rust bucket. Rockers, lift gate, arches, etc. I see so many trucks/suvs of the same model being eaten alive by it. Infuriates me! And people complain about Asian steel. Hah! Her truck (and others of the same model) were all made in Canada-

I hear ya. My Dad's 96 Chevy Blazer is literally disintegrating...

>New fuel tank after original one rusted through
>New fuel lines after original ones rusted through
>Original steel brake lines are on the verge of rusting through...
>Rocker panels rusted through
>Severe rust throughout the entire undercarriage.


Although, my 97' Suburban has held up remarkably well! Go figure...

[DaveBarbier]

Damn, rust sucks. I was reading an article on a military government branch that studies nothing but rust. It was actually pretty interesting.