Author Topic: What did you do to your bike today ? (Read 3721719 times)

MCRider · « **Reply #19375 on:** March 04, 2015, 08:21:49 AM »

Quote from: evanphi on March 04, 2015, 08:14:47 AM

Sorted out what gaskets and and O-rings I need to dig in to my top-end. I ordered a whole engine gasket kit, so I had to measure the orings and see which ones I needed... Hondaman's book was helpful in figuring out what I needed: two on top of the cylinders, along with the stud rubbers (holes in gasket are big enough!), and four little orings for the metering jets on top of the head. I got 6 pucks in the gasket set, and I also ordered four more. So I will measure their pocket's depth when I have the towers off, and see which pucks are closest to 0.030" more than that value (according to Hondaman here. Also going to change out the orings for the tappet covers and breather cover. Set aside the head gasket and valve cover gasket too, as well as four new exhaust gaskets.

Getting organized for this job is half the fun!

I'm going to get everything taken apart, and bring the head and valve cover to be cleaned. Going to clean the rest of the engine once everything is put back together and the weather warms up. No sense in everything getting wet when it is always below freezing!

One other thing I plan to do... remove the tach drive gear from underneath the valve cover. I am not running the stock tach on this bike (electronic tach weeee). I have a plug all made up and ready to go in, and hopefully removing the driver will reduce any tendency for that spot to leak oil. I have an Oring on the plug anyway, but just want to be sure!

No need to remove the drive, actually a bad idea IMO. The driver is in an oil seal already. Take it out you open the hole in the seal and oil will come out. The tach cable does not seal anything other than keeping a bit of water and dirt out, and not even completely at that.

The driver will just spin and the oil stays in the case. Just pop a plug in the hole that's held in by the cable screw, to look good and finished and keep water and dirt out.

Many places make plugs for that hole purpose.

evanphi · « **Reply #19376 on:** March 04, 2015, 09:52:59 AM »

Quote from: MCRider on March 04, 2015, 08:21:49 AM

Quote from: evanphi on March 04, 2015, 08:14:47 AM
Sorted out what gaskets and and O-rings I need to dig in to my top-end. I ordered a whole engine gasket kit, so I had to measure the orings and see which ones I needed... Hondaman's book was helpful in figuring out what I needed: two on top of the cylinders, along with the stud rubbers (holes in gasket are big enough!), and four little orings for the metering jets on top of the head. I got 6 pucks in the gasket set, and I also ordered four more. So I will measure their pocket's depth when I have the towers off, and see which pucks are closest to 0.030" more than that value (according to Hondaman here. Also going to change out the orings for the tappet covers and breather cover. Set aside the head gasket and valve cover gasket too, as well as four new exhaust gaskets.

Getting organized for this job is half the fun!

I'm going to get everything taken apart, and bring the head and valve cover to be cleaned. Going to clean the rest of the engine once everything is put back together and the weather warms up. No sense in everything getting wet when it is always below freezing!

One other thing I plan to do... remove the tach drive gear from underneath the valve cover. I am not running the stock tach on this bike (electronic tach weeee). I have a plug all made up and ready to go in, and hopefully removing the driver will reduce any tendency for that spot to leak oil. I have an Oring on the plug anyway, but just want to be sure!
No need to remove the drive, actually a bad idea IMO. The driver is in an oil seal already. Take it out you open the hole in the seal and oil will come out. The tach cable does not seal anything other than keeping a bit of water and dirt out, and not even completely at that.

The driver will just spin and the oil stays in the case. Just pop a plug in the hole that's held in by the cable screw, to look good and finished and keep water and dirt out.

Many places make plugs for that hole purpose.

I made a plug out of an old tach cable, actually. Made a little channel for an O-ring for extra snug fit. Is there anything in terms of load balancing that should prevent me from taking the tach drive out?

strynboen · « **Reply #19377 on:** March 04, 2015, 10:33:54 AM »

got 2 low kost exhosts systems for 200 danish kr..they fit honda cd and ss 50. made in asia/china. are dovn side systems..but still..like the preis..so got 2 set..
(got them from protuna in germany..danish low preis company)

MCRider · « **Reply #19378 on:** March 04, 2015, 01:28:00 PM »

"I made a plug out of an old tach cable, actually. Made a little channel for an O-ring for extra snug fit. Is there anything in terms of load balancing that should prevent me from taking the tach drive out? "

Nothing prevents removal of the drive. It's held in by a single bolt, pulls right out, gear is affixed to shaft. If your goal is to minimize the chance of oil getting out, removing the drive is not the way. IMO

Google "CB750 tach drive plug" for ideas. This bridge has been crossed many times before.

CB500_k2 · « **Reply #19379 on:** March 04, 2015, 02:14:10 PM »

The snow was 4 feet tall in either side of the driveway. I took a look at my CB500 and CB400F and confirmed they remained in suspended animation. I really envy those who have temperatures above 32 degrees F. Our time will come.

mcswny · « **Reply #19380 on:** March 05, 2015, 08:20:25 PM »

Quote from: CB500_k2 on March 04, 2015, 02:14:10 PM

The snow was 4 feet tall in either side of the driveway. I took a look at my CB500 and CB400F and confirmed they remained in suspended animation. I really envy those who have temperatures above 32 degrees F. Our time will come.

Where you living? It's supposed to be 40 in nyc on Sunday! Hallelujah! We got 5 or so inches today but hopefully it will be dry enough to get around for a little putt putt.

Ace · « **Reply #19381 on:** March 06, 2015, 01:08:23 AM »

Went for a ride, got home, turned the bike off and noticed this....

flybox1 · « **Reply #19382 on:** March 06, 2015, 09:03:08 AM »

Quote from: Ace on March 06, 2015, 01:08:23 AM

Went for a ride, got home, turned the bike off and noticed this....

bummer.
pucks or head gasket?

flybox1 · « **Reply #19383 on:** March 06, 2015, 09:08:52 AM »

Cleaning case mating surfaces of threebond. Tedious, but necessary.
A box of cotton swabs and dish of acetone was the preferred method.

evanphi · « **Reply #19384 on:** March 06, 2015, 10:54:49 AM »

Quote from: flybox1 on March 06, 2015, 09:08:52 AM

Cleaning case mating surfaces of threebond. Tedious, but necessary.
A box of cotton swabs and dish of acetone was the preferred method.

I love the smell of acetone in the morning!

Great for cleaning old finish off wooden gunstocks.

strynboen · « **Reply #19385 on:** March 06, 2015, 11:10:59 AM »

have re vindet the coil for ignision..it is spec for 180-250 ohm...but vas dovn to 140 ohm...

cut the old copper aut..and isolated and put nev viring on to 240 ohm..gave it bending and lauQer..and a auer in the oven..

so hope the old yamaha smoker dt 125 mk-1 ,runs after this...

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #19386 on:** March 06, 2015, 08:58:47 PM »

Quote from: evanphi on March 04, 2015, 09:52:59 AM

Quote from: MCRider on March 04, 2015, 08:21:49 AM
Quote from: evanphi on March 04, 2015, 08:14:47 AM
Sorted out what gaskets and and O-rings I need to dig in to my top-end. I ordered a whole engine gasket kit, so I had to measure the orings and see which ones I needed... Hondaman's book was helpful in figuring out what I needed: two on top of the cylinders, along with the stud rubbers (holes in gasket are big enough!), and four little orings for the metering jets on top of the head. I got 6 pucks in the gasket set, and I also ordered four more. So I will measure their pocket's depth when I have the towers off, and see which pucks are closest to 0.030" more than that value (according to Hondaman here. Also going to change out the orings for the tappet covers and breather cover. Set aside the head gasket and valve cover gasket too, as well as four new exhaust gaskets.

Getting organized for this job is half the fun!

I'm going to get everything taken apart, and bring the head and valve cover to be cleaned. Going to clean the rest of the engine once everything is put back together and the weather warms up. No sense in everything getting wet when it is always below freezing!

One other thing I plan to do... remove the tach drive gear from underneath the valve cover. I am not running the stock tach on this bike (electronic tach weeee). I have a plug all made up and ready to go in, and hopefully removing the driver will reduce any tendency for that spot to leak oil. I have an Oring on the plug anyway, but just want to be sure!
No need to remove the drive, actually a bad idea IMO. The driver is in an oil seal already. Take it out you open the hole in the seal and oil will come out. The tach cable does not seal anything other than keeping a bit of water and dirt out, and not even completely at that.

The driver will just spin and the oil stays in the case. Just pop a plug in the hole that's held in by the cable screw, to look good and finished and keep water and dirt out.

Many places make plugs for that hole purpose.

I made a plug out of an old tach cable, actually. Made a little channel for an O-ring for extra snug fit. Is there anything in terms of load balancing that should prevent me from taking the tach drive out?

It's not heavy enough with enough weight from center mass to worry about balancing, just run it bud

Ace · « **Reply #19387 on:** March 06, 2015, 09:46:35 PM »

Quote from: flybox1 on March 06, 2015, 09:03:08 AM

Quote from: Ace on March 06, 2015, 01:08:23 AM
Went for a ride, got home, turned the bike off and noticed this....
bummer.
pucks or head gasket?

Neither, out the exhaust port of #1 and #2. Pulled it all apart none the less. Bit of fuel in the air box, unburnt fuel in #1 and #2. All combustion chambers wet with #1 the worst. Plugs for #2/3/4 are fine, #1 wet and oily. Oil between tops of all the jugs. I'm thinking rings but also oil maybe coming up from between the sleeve and the barrels? I put the rubber orings in and some sealant, mustn't have worked....now have to work out what went wrong.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #19388 on:** March 07, 2015, 03:08:01 AM »

Quote from: Ace on March 06, 2015, 09:46:35 PM

Quote from: flybox1 on March 06, 2015, 09:03:08 AM
Quote from: Ace on March 06, 2015, 01:08:23 AM
Went for a ride, got home, turned the bike off and noticed this....
bummer.
pucks or head gasket?

Neither, out the exhaust port of #1 and #2. Pulled it all apart none the less. Bit of fuel in the air box, unburnt fuel in #1 and #2. All combustion chambers wet with #1 the worst. Plugs for #2/3/4 are fine, #1 wet and oily. Oil between tops of all the jugs. I'm thinking rings but also oil maybe coming up from between the sleeve and the barrels? I put the rubber orings in and some sealant, mustn't have worked....now have to work out what went wrong.

Is there a lot of pressure to force oil between the sleeves and barrels? I haven't heard of anyone using sealant there before. I just used the orings from the gasket set and so far things are good on my 550. Valve stem/guide seals?

---
1978 Honda CB550K

PeWe · « **Reply #19389 on:** March 07, 2015, 05:39:49 AM »

Mikuni carb job. Mikuni TMR32 replace Mikuni VM29.
New jetting adventure, hopefully a short one this year
Both std throttle cables mounted. Will hopefully fit the throttle mechanism on handlebar when there is much to adjust with. Had to add an extra nut for retract (push cable) adjuster. Made a cut thru the nut for wire so it could enter.

Mains 150, probably for velocity stacks. I replaced them with 135. I hope I guess correct when I'll use pods.
I have some main jets since my old VM29's have same model. 110-145, in 2.5 steps. Pilots however, different which is bad when I have a looong series to VM29 model.

TMR Pilots have 27.5. If mains 150 is for stacks, pilots might be too, going smaller
I've ordered 25 and 22.5. I'll use 25 first time. I hope to avoid multiple rejettings as for my impossible VM29's.
All float bowls have to be removed at the same time when they are connected with a hose, I guess for acc pump.

I hope float levels are correctly adjusted when new. My old clear tube tool for VM29 fits if I need to check.
Vaccum outlets tricky placed with small rubber caps. Fiddle with those is to beg for leaks I suppose. I'll test with my Gunson carb balancer that is hand held on the filter side, one by one. I'll might change my mind later on.

Carbs will go on when I have got the smaller pilots.

Edit:
Good jetting:
Pilot 32.5
Fuel screw 1 1/2 + 1/8 turn out
Needles 2:6 from top (too rich before)
Main 135
Plugs Denso XS24ES-U
Fuel Shell V-Power

750cafe · « **Reply #19390 on:** March 07, 2015, 07:00:47 AM »

Peewee, where did you get those carbs? I have never seen that model before myself and find them very interesting.
I believe that you are on the right track with the jetting changes vesus out of the box but what are the spec's on your engine and
what exhaust system are you going to be running? [camshaft change(s)? Engine size? Compression ratio?]

Eric

eigenvector · « **Reply #19391 on:** March 07, 2015, 01:50:38 PM »

Uuuuhhhh! Spiders!

I put back all the pieces to the bike in preparation for taking it out on it's first official ride since the rebuild.
Got the seat out from where I stashed it and you should have seen the nest of evil that I uncovered from under the toolkit cover. I'm still getting the shivers from it.

Almost afraid to sit on that thing now - like the foam inside has been replaced by little baby spiders or something.

alacrity · « **Reply #19392 on:** March 07, 2015, 02:01:32 PM »

I pulled the head an barrels... because it was leaking like a #$%* from the side oil seals. I found that the aftermarket (chinese-made) o-rings could NOT have been true buna-n material, because they had become rock hard and oval-shaped.
:-(
dropped the head and cyl off at my favorite local machine shop (Vellios) so they can jet clean and take a 10,000th or so off the surfaces to ensure flatness when I put it all back together...Assembly party at my house tuesday night!

PeWe · « **Reply #19393 on:** March 07, 2015, 03:21:39 PM »

Quote from: 750cafe on March 07, 2015, 07:00:47 AM

Peewee, where did you get those carbs? I have never seen that model before myself and find them very interesting.
I believe that you are on the right track with the jetting changes vesus out of the box but what are the spec's on your engine and
what exhaust system are you going to be running? [camshaft change(s)? Engine size? Compression ratio?]

Eric

I ordered from bikeside.de in Germany. I could buy them locally in Sweden too, but appr $100 more. Mikuni TMR32-D7. D7 is for CB750, how the carbs are mounted together. Distances between the carbs.
More application photos on several sites http://www.mikuni-topham.de/ENGLISHSITE/TMR_English/Honda/TMR32D7_English.html

I read this thread with TMR32's and got a lead about main jets where he changed from 135 to 132.5 when using std filter box. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=50168.msg1383158#msg1383158

I guess 135 is a good start for pods.
My K6 engine has 836cc, 34mm inlet valves, ported head, cam Megacycle 125-20. Today old Alpha 4-1 visible in my avatar. I'll change to 4-4 no numbers K0 replica later this year when carbs are OK. 4-4 without diffusers to not restrict flow too much if sound level is not worse than my loud 4-1.
Maybe smaller jets with 4-4

evanphi · « **Reply #19394 on:** March 07, 2015, 04:17:49 PM »

Stage 1 of frame cut/top end work...

Marked the spots

Cut them with a tube cutter to give a guide for the hacksaw. Covered the engine after threading the saw... and decided it was too cold to start getting in to this now. Bringing the space heater to the garage tomorrow.

Ace · « **Reply #19395 on:** March 07, 2015, 04:42:55 PM »

Quote from: DaveBarbier on March 07, 2015, 03:08:01 AM

Quote from: Ace on March 06, 2015, 09:46:35 PM
Quote from: flybox1 on March 06, 2015, 09:03:08 AM
Quote from: Ace on March 06, 2015, 01:08:23 AM
Went for a ride, got home, turned the bike off and noticed this....
bummer.
pucks or head gasket?

Neither, out the exhaust port of #1 and #2. Pulled it all apart none the less. Bit of fuel in the air box, unburnt fuel in #1 and #2. All combustion chambers wet with #1 the worst. Plugs for #2/3/4 are fine, #1 wet and oily. Oil between tops of all the jugs. I'm thinking rings but also oil maybe coming up from between the sleeve and the barrels? I put the rubber orings in and some sealant, mustn't have worked....now have to work out what went wrong.

Is there a lot of pressure to force oil between the sleeves and barrels? I haven't heard of anyone using sealant there before. I just used the orings from the gasket set and so far things are good on my 550. Valve stem/guide seals?

---
1978 Honda CB550K

Funny you mention that Dave. On my F2, I had to put a second breather hose in (next to the original one) as the crank case was pressurising and forcing oil out the head gasket. It was 895cc big bore kit. I think in this case, re-used the rings last time and I got caught out with oil getting past, #1 cylinder was just worse. There is an oil leak between #3/#4 cylinders as it runs out on the fins, no where near the head gasket. So that's why I'm thinking I've got an issue with oil between sleeve and barrels. A second breather may help, although I've never need one on the bike before. Weird issue.

maduncle · « **Reply #19396 on:** March 07, 2015, 11:49:52 PM »

Well -

Today I went to ride it to a local motorcycle show.

Turned the key, flipped the switch to on, pressed the starter - and nothing.

Plenty of juice, everything electrical worked except the starter button.

And it has only just started not starting since I fitted those clubman bars I freshly painted ...

...

... An hour later I had the bike running and I went to the show.

I leave you to fill in the obvious ... as to why the bike would not start with freshly painted clubman bars fitted.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #19397 on:** March 08, 2015, 12:03:39 AM »

Uhhhhhh.......No ground

tweakin · « **Reply #19398 on:** March 08, 2015, 06:57:33 AM »

bike is rejecting the clubmans...

Quote from: maduncle on March 07, 2015, 11:49:52 PM

Well -

Today I went to ride it to a local motorcycle show.

Turned the key, flipped the switch to on, pressed the starter - and nothing.

Plenty of juice, everything electrical worked except the starter button.

And it has only just started not starting since I fitted those clubman bars I freshly painted ...

...

... An hour later I had the bike running and I went to the show.

I leave you to fill in the obvious ... as to why the bike would not start with freshly painted clubman bars fitted.

PeWe · « **Reply #19399 on:** March 08, 2015, 09:38:47 AM »

Quote from: evanphi on March 07, 2015, 04:17:49 PM

Stage 1 of frame cut/top end work...

Marked the spots

Cut them with a tube cutter to give a guide for the hacksaw. Covered the engine after threading the saw... and decided it was too cold to start getting in to this now. Bringing the space heater to the garage tomorrow.

You will use Franks weldless frame kit?
I have done that on my bike too. Really good upgrade I have used several times last year whan I need to lift head, replace cyl studs, change cam, repair threds etc.

I recommend how I did the cuts . Max forward touching the ign switch and max backward so the carbs will stay free. There are welds back that must need space.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=62832.msg1515860#msg1515860
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=62832.msg1515491#msg1515491
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=62832.msg1515491#msg1515491

Before the cuts of frame:
I started to measure and drill the 2 holes on each side on the triangular bracing.

News:

Author Topic: What did you do to your bike today ? (Read 3721719 times)