Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build

[DaveBarbier]

Light is still good but I noticed even more of this blue stuff right where the bulb connects to. It's for the white wire which I think is the low beam wire. 


Thoughts?

[DaveBarbier]

Ok, blew out in about 5 minutes, haha. I have an aftermarket three prong plug that I got with one of my headlights. I'm going to throw that in and see if anything changes. Maybe the plug and soldered connections there are dirty and have more resistance? Maybe battery is still over charging too. I remember a piece of paper that the Rick's Reg/Rec came with that said what voltage parameters it was set to. I thought I took a picture of it but I may have just thrown it out without doing so. I looked on their website but couldn't find that info. Anyone know?

[DaveBarbier]

More likely that the headlight is drawing too much voltage for the wire feeding it. That would be my suspicion. What are the specs on the headlight current draw?

You mean the bulb specs or the bucket itself? Now, I mentioned earlier that I'm pretty sure this started happening after I changed to a smaller bucket. Going from a stock size metal bucket to a 6.5".

This is the headlight I am currently running. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=161529059977&globalID=EBAY-US

[madmtnmotors]

Per the ad it's a 55/60 watt H4 HID bulb. I think this taxes the 550 electrical system.

[DaveBarbier]

Looking for the bulb wattage specs. Bucket doesn't matter to fuses 

All the bulbs that have blown for me are 60/55w. That's all that I've used in this bike. But I just read in my wiring diagram that the stock bulb is 50/40...I thought that it used an H4 bulb stock and that all H4s were 60/55w? Ok, so what does this mean? If you put a 6 volt bulb in a 12 volt system then it'll glow very bright and quickly burn up. But if I use a bulb that requires higher wattage then it'll create more heat, right? And possibly melt wires? But then why would the bulb blow...I just don't have enough of a basic understanding of electrical systems.

[DaveBarbier]

Per the ad it's a 55/60 watt H4 HID bulb. I think this taxes the 550 electrical system.

It's the upper end sure, but I'd be more concerned about the quality of the wiring (too small a gauge?) or a cheap connector. I've never bought anything with the name Emgo on it that wasn't an absolute piece of CR@P!

If you're blowing fuses, your over-drawing the fuse. What size fuse are you running for the head light? And have you made any mods up front where the Head light circuit is also powering something new/extra?

Well, I'm not blowing fuses. Just the low beam is burning up. Haven't blown a headlight fuse yet. I'm sure if I kept the high on that would blow too. It's a 7.5 amp blade fuse. I don't think they come in just 7 amp which the original glass fuse was.

No mods, the headlight circuit isn't powering anything else...there is a wire tapped into the high beam connector for the LED high beam indicator, though, but that's stock.

I've read a bit of the 60/55 watt bulbs taxing the system, but then it would melt wires or blow fuses, not blow the bulb, right?

[madmtnmotors]

Test the wiring harness by bypassing it:

>Get a new bulb
>Get an inline fuse
>Get enough 18ga wire to wire the new bulb straight from the battery using the inline fuse at the battery connection.
>Get an on/off toggle switch. You can get a three position if you want (hi/lo/off) but it's more wiring. You are only testing here, so if you just use a two position (on/off) then wire the low beam first and ride it. Once you're satisfied that it won't blow then wire the high beam through the switch and ride it some more.

If you can't get it to blow then you need to start checking switches and connections. Over amping from excessive resistance can manifest itself in many different ways with many different symtoms (i.e. blown fuses, melted wires, melted connectors, etc.)


http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137351.msg1549191.html#msg1549191

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494

[DaveBarbier]

It means you're pulling too much current thru the system for its designed amperage, hence you're blowing fuses/bulbs. I'd suggest grabbing the H4 LED bulb from CognitoMoto (~$65). It uses 12w/18w lo to hi. It's unreal bright too! That's a lot less draw on the charging system, easier on the fuses, and still brighter.

Once you swap to the M-unit, this fuse/charging issue goes away. The light is separated into 2 circuits: LO and HI and each are independently fused. But I'd still encourage the LED bulb.

I was considering that LED bulb, but I wanted to be sure I just wouldn't burn up that LED too, haha. I'll probably just grab it now.

And yeah, I figured and hoped that the m-Unit (which I just ordered by the way. M-Unit, 2 button m-Switch and 3 button m-Switch for $480 delivered) would just fix all this, but I still wanted to figure it out.

[DaveBarbier]

Test the wiring harness by bypassing it:

>Get a new bulb
>Get an inline fuse
>Get enough 18ga wire to wire the new bulb straight from the battery using the inline fuse at the battery connection.
>Get an on/off toggle switch. You can get a three position if you want (hi/lo/off) but it's more wiring. You are only testing here, so if you just use a two position (on/off) then wire the low beam first and ride it. Once you're satisfied that it won't blow then wire the high beam through the switch and ride it some more.

If you can't get it to blow then you need to start checking switches and connections. Over amping from excessive resistance can manifest itself in many different ways with many different symtoms (i.e. blown fuses, melted wires, melted connectors, etc.)


http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137351.msg1549191.html#msg1549191

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494

Cool, I like that test. I'll give that a shot. I guess I hope it blows then.

Thanks

[DaveBarbier]

I'd suggest grabbing the H4 LED bulb from CognitoMoto (~$65). It uses 12w/18w lo to hi.

You mean 20/30w? Not seeing a 12/18.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

That bulb IS bright.

I went from halogen



to the LED

[DaveBarbier]

What kind of master cylinder is that?

[DaveBarbier]

I'd suggest grabbing the H4 LED bulb from CognitoMoto (~$65). It uses 12w/18w lo to hi.

You mean 20/30w? Not seeing a 12/18.

Actually, the unit I had in my hands the other day (helping brianncwynn get his bike roadworthy) stated 12/18 on the element. And that bulb inside a sunshiny garage almost burned a hole in the ceiling when I test ignited it. 

And by the way, on his, the wire colors were wonky! WHT was ground, Bl was HI and Green was LO. Odd... So if you buy it, test it externally before you wire/install it.

Ok, weird, I'll definitely test before install. Ordered it last night. Wonder if they sold different units at one point. Or maybe mine will also say 12/18? No idea, either way 20/30 is better than 55/60.

[DaveBarbier]

So, just to get an opinion. Should I just install that LED bulb when it comes in and assume it'll be fine? I like that test to get another H4 60/55w and hook it up to the battery and see if it blows. I could just toss the LED in and hope for the best until the m-Unit comes in for the rewire.

Speaking of wire, I emailed wire barn to ask if they do smaller than 25' bundles of 10 color wire. Got a call last night from Nate, the owner and we bullshat for like 45 minutes. They don't, but still a real nice guy. Is TXL too thin for our application? Not sure if I want 18GXL and 22TXL.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

What kind of master cylinder is that?

Braking radial master cylinder - with integrated reservoir. I think this design was made for supermoto bikes. Now discontinued.

[DaveBarbier]

What kind of master cylinder is that?

Braking radial master cylinder - with integrated reservoir. I think this design was made for supermoto bikes. Now discontinued.

It's small and nice. Cool stuff.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I liked the compact design, but one of the original seals failed. I'm searching for a rebuild kit to use it on another bike.

The model is a Braking 1601
They also made a 19mm same design -- Braking 1901

Both are pretty hard to find now. 

[DaveBarbier]

If you're struggling with wire sources, then just by the Moto gadget wiring loom Kit

Haha, I wouldn't say struggling. Just being over careful to make sure I don't do anything stupid. I could totally see you guys saying either, "Wait, you got TXL!? Dude, that's way too thin for bikes!" or "For GOD SAKES TXL/GXL, it doesn't matter, just buy it already!" If I'm doing a complete rewire I'd like to do it right. Never done this before,

It's all ordered.

[DaveBarbier]

Got the 674cc kit. Yeeesss, yeeeessss! Muahhahahaha!!!



Also got a sweet 240GB SSD for my iMac but that's a different forum.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Nice, Dave.  Welcome to the 674cc club!!

[DaveBarbier]

Nice, Dave.  Welcome to the 674cc club!!

Very exclusive club. I only know of two members.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I'd imagine there are more out there, but we are the newbies.

[Bootsey]

Also got a sweet 240GB SSD for my iMac but that's a different forum.

I put a SSD in my Macbook a little while back - so much faster and quieter!

[DaveBarbier]

Surely you're going all out and coating those pistons?

...why do you do this to me!?!?

Looking into it for just a few minutes...not that expensive. Saw some posts where MRieck recommended Swain coatings. TBC on top and PC-9 on skirt is only $40 each.

To reduce heat, friction, and increase oil shedding it seems like a cool thing to do. Not necessary for me by any means, but sure does make them look cool. Something I'll consider if only for a learning experience.

[DaveBarbier]

My guy shoots each for $15/. Oil shed underneath and dry film on skirts. Thermal reflective on top.

Does your guy have a name/number?